ranchmom77 Report post Posted July 25, 2013 I'm making sure to overlap the tool a bit over the previous impression and doing my best to strike with the same force each time, but my beveling is still very choppy looking. I'm just playing around on a piece of scrap so I used my molding tool to try and smooth it out.. It helps some but I'd like to know how to get it right the first time. Also since I'm here, do you do a border first, then the basketweave or is it vice versa? Thanks! Jamie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EquusCustomLeathers Report post Posted July 25, 2013 Practise And...basketweave first, then border... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranchmom77 Report post Posted July 25, 2013 Lol ok . Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiverCity Report post Posted July 25, 2013 Practice walking the tool in a straight line without a cut. You might find it easier to hold the beveler slightly about the leather and "bounce" it with the mallet/maul. Also, make sure your leather has the correct moisture content. Too wet, and it will look choppier. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David8386 Report post Posted July 26, 2013 Another thing on beveling is you can go back over it until it smooths out the way you want it. But it really is all about practice David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightingale Report post Posted July 26, 2013 Yet another thing is the quality of your bevelling stamp. I can't get a smooth line with my cheap Tandy craftool beveler that came with my startup kit, no matter how hard I try. I asked the same question as you a year or two ago, and the advice that worked for me was to get a better beveler. When I upgraded to Barry King bevelers, the problem was instantly solved. Quality bevelers are a little bit domed to reduce the likelihood of leaving footprints. I think BK's are about $25 apiece, but well worth the money. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stelhrse Report post Posted July 26, 2013 Just to add an idea, I have found that a trip around the bevel with a modeling spoon smooth's it out very nicely. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Murf Report post Posted July 27, 2013 Yet another thing is the quality of your bevelling stamp. I can't get a smooth line with my cheap Tandy craftool beveler that came with my startup kit, no matter how hard I try. I asked the same question as you a year or two ago, and the advice that worked for me was to get a better beveler. When I upgraded to Barry King bevelers, the problem was instantly solved. Quality bevelers are a little bit domed to reduce the likelihood of leaving footprints. I think BK's are about $25 apiece, but well worth the money. Same here. Had a Tandy from the Lucky 7 kit and struggled for a few projects then i ordered a medium sized barry king. After seeing the difference i bought 2 more from BK. I was reading up on something in one of my basics books the other day and it mentioned stropping your beveler. Not really sure what the point of this would be other then to remove micro layers of tanning residue that may build up on the beveler but i dont really slide mine its more of a small scale hopping jackhammering. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted July 31, 2013 One thing that is key to achieving good beveling is proper swivel knife work. The depth of swivel knife cuts should be roughly 1/2 the thickness of the leather. Using leather at least 5oz thick also helps. A nice, smooth, deep cut in properly thick leather is much easier to follow with a beveler. Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted July 31, 2013 I have found if I keep my hand low on the stamp I have more control...like holding a pencil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted July 31, 2013 Nobody has addressed the real issue here! Here's what shows me the exact culprit for you: "I'm making sure to overlap the tool a bit over the previous impression and doing my best to strike with the same force each time" Walking a beveler is NOT hit-lift-place-hit-lift-place like with a normal stamping tool. You will get choppy results EVERY time. Walking a beveler should be more like a jackhammer using your index finger as a shock absorber. Suspend the beveler ever so slightly above your line and TAP it quickly and repeatedly. The spring action from your finger will make it raise back up out of the cut as you're moving it along the line. This should really sound like "taptaptaptaptaptaptaptap" and not "Tap......Tap.......Tap.......Tap". I struggled with it myself at first because nobody had ever seemed to explain the difference to me. Once I got to see a professional beveling their work on video it instantly hit and I fully understood. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranchmom77 Report post Posted July 31, 2013 Great advice everyone.. Thank you so much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
treybecca Report post Posted August 10, 2013 Modeling spoons can be your best friends...fix all sorts of issues Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted August 10, 2013 All the posts have merit, and will help. One last tip, I tend to tilt my bevels ever so slightly towards the direction I am beveling. That way the trailing end of the bevel is slightly up and tends to smooth out the "line" left by the front edge of the bevel. A little practice will serve you well. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranchmom77 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 Cyber thrasher you hit it spot on for me.. I watched a video and hadn't realized how fast it actually is! I've been practicing and it's like night and day.. I'm very appreciative of all of you taking the time to help a newbie out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
