Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

[Trox]

At Tor: I just got back from Laederiet, and they have some new edge dyes from Italy. They're supposedly what a lot of industry companies use. If that's a good thing, I don't know. But I'll let you know, if they're any good once I get the chance to try them out.

At Walter: You're probably the second guy ever to recommend using hide/pearl/animal glue to finish edges. The first one was an old saddler that I bought some tools off. However he didn't seem like a very good craftsman, so I didn't take his word for much. But I have some glue lying around, but how do you apply it and how do you rub it in?

Thanks Simon, I am looking for one that can be used with a heated soldering iron with a crease tip on (the Filet electric). I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

Post 1 .........Edges Polishing.

Hi Guys..............

So that edges polishing... I will try it if I can't describe with my English((-:

I actually thought that was still widely known.

So, if one makes the belt with 2 layers and has sewn so it grinds today the edges often using a grinding machine. For example, I often use this one...

http://www.westernto...elt-sander.html

He can handle well in the vise clamp.

Earlier, you made this work but with the "shards" (glass shards).

You took a piece of window glass, and cut it to size with the glass cutter into small pieces so 6 x 3 cm.

Cut the glass there but only an edge that cuts really well, that is the "lower". Because the "top" of it carved a using a glass cutter is of course no longer intact and so also not sharp.

With the sharp side of the glass is now pulled off the double strap leather edge and equalised, - beautiful flat made.

This one stretches the straps in the stitching horse and pulling the glass at a slight angle com light pressure on the edge of the leather.

You will see that the glass edge is very sharp and well cuts away the leather, without that you damaged the belt or embrasures makes immediately recognize how the angle must be, you will become.

Editing makes a smoother edge with the glass as it is possible with the machine.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks I know this technique.

I use it too. (not glass anymore)

[walter roth]

Tor..............

I thought that to myself.

But glass is better.

By the way, is used to apply the bone glue on the Lederkannte traditionally a piece of thick felt, so 2 x 6 cm and 1.5 cm thick.

There are such residues at the traditional Saddlers usually always enough.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]

Hi guys...

I got.

I read here about the manufacture of beautiful edges.

I will even say that I always the color sanding after which edges wear, because later takes the color no longer good edge, if you wax to the shine is, or even if you the edge with a wheel made of wood has edited to make them smooth.

So only the color, then use the burnisher. Usually only apply after the edges luster.

By the way...

Edited when you stamp the leather with the leather and the leather to wets, what are you doing when you get these black stains on the leather...???

Here in the Switzerland used the same resources that it takes to make the black stains on parquet away then.

We take about 96% - known oxalic acid, (Common wood sorrel Acid ...??? ) under the name "Sauerkleesalz" = German Lhangwich, (oxalic acid) or sugar acid (saccharic acid) ...."Zuckersäure" in German Lhangwich.

Black handle stains away within seconds, but only as long as the leather is still wet.

1 Tea Spoon sugar acid dissolve in 1 dl water and it is finished.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Tor..............

I thought that to myself.

But glass is better.

By the way, is used to apply the bone glue on the Lederkannte traditionally a piece of thick felt, so 2 x 6 cm and 1.5 cm thick.

There are such residues at the traditional Saddlers usually always enough.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks Walter, I never tried that bone glue. Seems to be a bit work. Thanks for explaining it.

Tor

[bruce johnson]

I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday.

[Trox]

I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday.

Hello Bruce, thats great news. I hope you enjoy it, because you have deserved it. The reason you received it that late was; simply that I forgot to send it. Sorry about that.

However, I hope that`s forgotten now too. Thank you for your help, too.

Tor

By the way Bruce, Elmer's glue is that made of animal bones too? I have not seen that product here where I live.

Thanks

Tor

[Northmount]

I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move

White or yellow?

Yellow glue is usually the woodworker's type. Dries stiff and cracks when bent.

White glue usually dries flexible, so shouldn't crack.

But, I suppose amongst all the manufacturers, there are sure to be disparities as to how their glue dries and behaves.

As an aside, for those interested, diluted yellow glue can be used to stop water stains on your ceiling from showing through your new coat of paint.

Tom

[walter roth]

Hi Guys...............

Here in the Switzerland it has used probably always bone glue CEN long as edge gloss.

Even in the modern edge gloss products bone glue is always the "main part", already resolved, so he cold can be processed ...allerdings and without you first must warm him.

What they use as a solvent, that I would have to ask once.

Unfortunately, they have made smaller the proportion of bone glue in the product, thus he was ever watery and worse in the result.

Bone glue should not too thick, but thin ...aber still not as thin as water.

Check it out einml, it works fine and the edges are fragile... I never had this problem.

However I'm also repeatedly carrying on bone glue. Some leather craftsmen edges gloss apply several times to get a perfect result ...und do it sometimes too much of a good.

Bone glue is always the color of amber and is still in the form of beads to buy.

Finished products are only suitable if they were made for leather processing.

But I think, as a glue for wood used long him nobody.

And as I said, you can give to some Glycerin to make bone glue something rubbery.

I'll take a recipe, something as soon as I take but time did.

Containing Glycerin, water and glue.

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 24, 2013 by walter roth

[cjmt]

Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine"

http://leatherworker...showtopic=28079

I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out.

I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well.

Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum.

However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops.

In advance thanks

Tor

For use with a filiteuse and soft leather you want something like the edge finish from Beraud - its very effective but rather difficult and very time consuming in use.

In England we still commonly use both glass for edges and a lot of the trade mixes their own edge finishes with powder dye and pearl glue still. I personally glass for multi layers of thick leather and its very effective.

Charlie

[walter roth]

Hi...

I will show you that with photos, but it goes a few days until I have time to do so.

Car Charlie...

To work with the glass is almost just as fast as with the machine and it is very easy. Only strongly curved shapes are better to grind with the machine.

Charlie, what is a Filiteuse ?? .....I don't understand the word and can't find it in the Internet also.

Greeting Walter