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Posted (edited)

thats a blanchard punch, smaller teeth than the dixons

Notice also he is pulling the threads at a significant angle, skip to 2:57 onwards, look at the angle of the piece relative to how he pulls to tighten the stitching, that will put the stitching in the corners I reckon

Give that a go ?

Definitely nothing wrong with the tools, Nigel manages the stitching you are looking for with dixons, could be thread thickness or something in your technique

Thanks Macca,

I actually tried the same angle in pics above, but didn't look like it helped. I mean, if I do not put the knot in, the angle of stitches on the front does get quite steep, while the stitches on the back straighten-up. But as soon as I throw the thread over the right-hand needle, the angle gets shallower (although visible on both sides) and the thread gets pushed to the upper side of the holes.

Tried to follow Nigel's videos word by word, but never managed to get steep angles of stitches on both sides, no matter what thickness of the thread I used (This is something I will ask in the forum thread about his videos)

As for the punch, yes, looks like he uses Vergez Blanchard irons throughout his process, but which number would you think the one in the video is? I can't figure out, is it #9 or #10?

It may be a bit of a daunting task, but many users will thin a Dixons pricking iron. They are notorious for having very thick teeth.

That's what I thought of doing, but then decided not to, as I'm now planning to sell both irons I've got (8 & 9) and buy a Vergez Blanchard. So if someone buys them off me, the irons will be in the original condition.

I think Matt hit the nail on the head there, the newer Dixons pricking irons do seem to have larger teeth...

Thanks Jax,

Quite frustrated though as was hoping the #9 would be the one I would be able to use in the majority of projects, very keen on starting to design and stitch, there are effectively no irons I can use for that. Ordering each one and waiting for a month before they arrive takes a bit of a patience as well.

Here is some great info on Dixon Pricking irons including how to use them sizing and a video on proper use. http://www.sharkdesigns.co.uk/bushcraft/Products%20Folder/leather_tools/dixons_pricking_irons_2_teeth.html

Thanks Camano ridge, I found that link a while back, but it doesn't say what length (or rather, width) each tooth is. The article also mentions the pricking iron can be used to punch all the way through, if the awl is not used.

Edited by Mart99
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Posted

Whereabouts are you Mart?

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Posted

I think your thread it too thin for the holes, it wont fill them if thats what you are after

I dont have a 9 pricking iron, but heres a pic I just did with a 10 (10SPI, 11 teeth, Dixons iron)

black thread is 0.6mm tiger thread

white thread is lin cable 832 (probably the thinnest hand stitching thread there is)

everything else is the same, marked with the iron, holes opened with an awl, same needles, angles etc

white thread does not fill the holes, a bit like your pic

thread is too thin for the iron (assuming you want it to look full, your stitching looks fine in the second pics you posted in all honesty)

H7s9ZCr.jpg

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Posted

Your stitching technique looks A+. To finish more satisfactorily try pounding over the line with a smooth faced hammer. This will usually close the holes back up a little and make everything look more uniform and finished. Osborne's little # 6 hammer is just about right. With the wallet on your marble slab, just a little tap, tap and voila!

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Posted (edited)

thats a very good tip

Ive stopped doing grooves for stitching and now finish with a hammer or bone to flatten out the stitching

heres one thats 8SPI

ZzvVCde.jpg

Edited by Macca
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Posted

I think your thread it too thin for the holes, it wont fill them if thats what you are after

I dont have a 9 pricking iron, but heres a pic I just did with a 10 (10SPI, 11 teeth, Dixons iron)

black thread is 0.6mm tiger thread

white thread is lin cable 832 (probably the thinnest hand stitching thread there is)

Thanks for the very visual post Macca, it does clearly show the issue - thread to hole ratio. The thread I used on the images was lin cable 632, but judging by the image, am I correct in assuming that even number 10 iron won't do the trick with that thread thickness?

Your stitching technique looks A+. To finish more satisfactorily try pounding over the line with a smooth faced hammer. This will usually close the holes back up a little and make everything look more uniform and finished. Osborne's little # 6 hammer is just about right. With the wallet on your marble slab, just a little tap, tap and voila!

Thanks oltoot, glad the technique looks good:) I've just tried hammering the stitches, albeit with a chunky steel hammer that works better with nails, and they do indeed look better. But the holes are too big still, and even though the thread is flattened, it doesn't fill the holes. So will try the hammering tip once I get an iron much better suited for the thread (and get to invest in a proper hammer for leatherwork)

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Posted

No.10 with 632 might be ok, its almost 20% thicker than 832, might still be a bit thin, 532 is probably better

I hate these sizes !

so in mm

832=0.43mm

632=0.51mm

532=0.57mm

432=0.63mm

332=0.77mm

for a No.9 I'd probably go with 332, although its a big jump from 432, so not sure (yeah, 0.14mm is a big jump apparently :thumbsup: )

could be worth ordering a sample card, will let you try, bit cheaper than spending 35 Euro a time to try a new size

http://www.sajou.fr/en/colour-charts-all-ranges-fil-au-chinois/4776-fil-au-chinois-waxed-cable-linen-thread-thickness-sample-card.html

a nice smooth faced cobblers hammer will sort out flattening the stitching without doing any damage

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Posted

Thanks for another detailed response, Macca! Just placed an order for Vergez Blanchard 10/10 and 10/2, let's see how they work:)

Thanks again to everyone who helped clarify this!

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