Always A Topic About Finishing!

[FFLeather]

Has anyone ever tried Nikwax for weather proofing veg tanned leather? Been doing some research on a new way to "waterproof" a project before finishing it out and sending it off to customers. The way I do it now works great until I work a fire in them. Then they tend to dry out a little bit and lose their natural shape. So, what do yall think about Nikwax?

[FFLeather]

Also has anyone used the new Fiebings Snow Proof Mink Oil Paste? I'm wondering if its comparable to using a mink oil and Snow Proof mixture...seems to me it would be.

[Bob Blea]

Good questions, I would like to know the answer too.

Bob

[Cyberthrasher]

Are you sealing your items first? I think for what you're doing, a good acrylic sealer would be ESPECIALLY important. Any kind of wax is only going to be a temporary barrier to moisture. I've had great results using Resolene and topping it off with Montana Pitch Blend, but I also know Pecard's works well for weather resistance. Not sure how any of that will hold up while working a fire, but it would be my first step.

[FFLeather]

It's funny that you mentioned using an acrylic sealer Cyberthrasher... I read pages and pages of people saying how they dislike using resoline to seal a whole project, so that's why I didn't in the beginning. It's what I used only on tooling or stamps that I painted/dyed a different color before sealing the whole project. I was at work when I was reading pages and pages on sealing leather so I got a good idea of what I wanted to try. On my way home I stopped to get some Atom Wax to try as well. After hours of testing I finally figured out the right process for my products.

I was reading that a lot of people did not like using the resoline because it smelled, or was tacky etc. but it has worked wonders! I also switched when I oil the product since I case and wet mold most of my stuff. I was doing it a little later than i should have so I was getting a pretty stiff piece because the oil wasn't soaking in to the leather like it should. Now, I have a finished piece that is flexible and not flimsy. I'm also using a generous amount of Atom Wax first on the flesh side, then resoline over the entire product and heat treating the wax as I apply it to the leather as my final step. The end result has great water resistance, just adds an extra 12-24 hours of drying time to the products.

I'm still looking for some Nikwax, so stay tuned..

Edited September 17, 2013 by FFLeather