FFLeather Report post Posted September 5, 2013 Has anyone ever tried Nikwax for weather proofing veg tanned leather? Been doing some research on a new way to "waterproof" a project before finishing it out and sending it off to customers. The way I do it now works great until I work a fire in them. Then they tend to dry out a little bit and lose their natural shape. So, what do yall think about Nikwax? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FFLeather Report post Posted September 5, 2013 Also has anyone used the new Fiebings Snow Proof Mink Oil Paste? I'm wondering if its comparable to using a mink oil and Snow Proof mixture...seems to me it would be. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted September 10, 2013 Good questions, I would like to know the answer too. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted September 10, 2013 Are you sealing your items first? I think for what you're doing, a good acrylic sealer would be ESPECIALLY important. Any kind of wax is only going to be a temporary barrier to moisture. I've had great results using Resolene and topping it off with Montana Pitch Blend, but I also know Pecard's works well for weather resistance. Not sure how any of that will hold up while working a fire, but it would be my first step. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FFLeather Report post Posted September 17, 2013 (edited) It's funny that you mentioned using an acrylic sealer Cyberthrasher... I read pages and pages of people saying how they dislike using resoline to seal a whole project, so that's why I didn't in the beginning. It's what I used only on tooling or stamps that I painted/dyed a different color before sealing the whole project. I was at work when I was reading pages and pages on sealing leather so I got a good idea of what I wanted to try. On my way home I stopped to get some Atom Wax to try as well. After hours of testing I finally figured out the right process for my products. I was reading that a lot of people did not like using the resoline because it smelled, or was tacky etc. but it has worked wonders! I also switched when I oil the product since I case and wet mold most of my stuff. I was doing it a little later than i should have so I was getting a pretty stiff piece because the oil wasn't soaking in to the leather like it should. Now, I have a finished piece that is flexible and not flimsy. I'm also using a generous amount of Atom Wax first on the flesh side, then resoline over the entire product and heat treating the wax as I apply it to the leather as my final step. The end result has great water resistance, just adds an extra 12-24 hours of drying time to the products. I'm still looking for some Nikwax, so stay tuned.. Edited September 17, 2013 by FFLeather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
