Isn't As Easy As It Looks...

[MStarmer]

Well thanks for the tips, I put a little more work into it. I ended up trying to drill the remaining holes with a .062 drill bit just to see how it worked and if I thought it was something I wanted to give a shot. After seeing it compared to the awl punched holes I think I'll skip the drilling.

Some things I learned from this one.

I need to layout everything when it's flat.

Do all edge grooving and marking when flat.

Don't use overstitch wheel around the corners, or go very slow.

Don't punch out the belt slot holes, I really oversized them.

Edge beveler #3 is a little big for my tastes.

Here it is stitched up, edge burnished and 2 coats of Fiebings Mahogany oil dye. I don't have any neatsfoot oil but it's on the way with the other goodies. All in all I guess it turned out decent. I already have another one of a little different design cut out waiting to start!

[LewSchiller]

I'm screwing up my courage to make a similar holster as my first ever leather project.

If mine turns out 10% as well as yours I'll be happy

Edited September 10, 2013 by LewSchiller

[MStarmer]

I'm screwing up my courage to make a similar holster as my first ever leather project.

If mine turns out 10% as well as yours I'll be happy

Thanks!

You have nothing to loose but your time. I don't count the cost of tools as those are mine to keep but $35 worth of leather gives me enough to do probably 6 or 8 holsters. Now I kind if wished I would have molded it to my XDm so I could actually carry with it and see how it works. Unfortunately the blue gun doesn't provide the stopping power I'm looking for.

[malabar]

MStarmer,

That is a far better first effort than mine -- or my second or third, for that fact. The shape is good looking, the stitching is nicely spaced and that's quite a nice dye job.

A few observations/suggestions....

-- I use a number 4 edge beveler when working on leather this thick, but it's a round one, and from the look of your edges, you're using a flat one. You might find the round ones easier to use when burnishing the edges (if you are using a round one, then it's just my eye)

-- try to get your stitch lines a little closer to the gun. This makes for better long-term fit, and enables better molding to the gun.

-- The shape of the guard in the back of the holster looks good. Between that and the overall shape, it looks like you can get a good grip on the pistol while it's fully holstered. Personally, I would change the front profile slightly to cover more of the trigger guard area, but if you do, you need to make sure you taper the top edge down to the slot more sharply, to ensure you can continue to get a good grip on the pistol.

-- Your design looks well thought out so you're probably covered on this, but make sure that you leave the mag release exposed in the back. If the leather covers the mag release, then a blow to the holster can release the mag.

Can't wait to version 2.0!

tk

[MStarmer]

Yeah the stitch line didn't end up even close to where I was shooting. I molded it then tried to layout the stitch line. May work out fine for someone with more experience but I found it a lot easier when the holster was flat. I'll post up a pic of the back of the holster, I didn't realize I forgot to take one. Been working on version 2 for XD today, was looking great until I punched out the belt slots, I tried drilling then joining them with a chisel. Harder then I thought it would be, I had better luck with the punches last time. Belt slots are a little trickier than I imagined...

Here's the back;

And here's my next one, this one will be for my XDm

Edited September 10, 2013 by MStarmer

[malabar]

The back looks fine -- plenty of the stock exposed so that you can get a proper grip, and mag release is in the clear.

The belt slots can be tricky. If you're going to do more than a few holsters, a 2-inch bag punch from Osborne is a good investment -- but there are a number of very experienced holster makers here who use the hole and chisel technique. Just takes some practice.

Better watch out -- looks like you're catching the disease <g>

tk

[chiefjason]

but there are a number of very experienced holster makers here who use the hole and chisel technique. Just takes some practice.

Better watch out -- looks like you're catching the disease <g>

tk

To add to the above, I have found a punch and the round knife works great. I punch the hole. Put the point of the round knife in the hole and roll the round knife towards the other hole. Do that for both sides. Flip the holster and reverse it. Now the lines are cut straight and probably 95% of the material is free. I then carefully run the point of the round knife from top to bottom to free the piece of leather and knock it out.

I recently ordered a Vergez Blanchard straight skiving knife. it's a touch wider than what I need so I need to re profile it a bit but I'll use it like a chisel once I get the profile right.

[jbossartcustomgunleather]

Well I will let you in on a secret.....we all started at the beginning too.

So true

[MStarmer]

I'm the kind of guy that likes to go on with both feet running. When I was learning how to checker the front strap of my 1911 a whole lot of people said I was craszy. Practice on a pipe or something. I did practice on something, my frame! I'm looking forward to posting a few more pics.

Edited September 13, 2013 by MStarmer