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Posted

I think I understand now: the keeper closest to the buckle is skived at the ends and stitched in between the layers in the strap, which would be very annoying to stitch by machine!

Looks like the stitched keeper acts as a stop to keep the other one from sliding off and bursting into flames, Nifty bit of design there!

Will have to check out those books for sure, pretty sure I've seen the handbook around somewhere!

Will have to tackle a band someday when I have the skills to pull off artisan grade stuff like yours (what a suckup, boooo!)

In all seriousness, watching the hermes guys make them made me want to make a strap when i didn't even have a watch!

Thanks for the advice cjmt!

I dont skive the top keeper, I leave a gap in the middle layer of padding for the keeper to sit in so the thickness is more or less the same, other than that spot on.

The knack with little fiddly things is to go slowly - dont rush complicated things and they arent that complicated on the whole. The art is in doing things in the right order and then not spoiling what youve already done by going at it hammer and tongs, imho at least

Charlie

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Posted

Another question on cutting the strap and punching the holes.. Did you use a die and a press or actually cut the strap yourself and then use a punch and hammer for the ends and holes?

I just got a die made and I don't know if it was the maker or just an issue with dies in general, but the strap holes were horrible..The ends were nice though.. They only other option is to just cut the strap and punch the holes myself.. just toying around with ideas..

Thanks

Todd

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Posted

Another question on cutting the strap and punching the holes.. Did you use a die and a press or actually cut the strap yourself and then use a punch and hammer for the ends and holes?

I just got a die made and I don't know if it was the maker or just an issue with dies in general, but the strap holes were horrible..The ends were nice though.. They only other option is to just cut the strap and punch the holes myself.. just toying around with ideas..

Thanks

Todd

Hi Todd

All hand cut. I think even if you used a clicker for the strap you'd have to punch the holes when the strap is assembled anyway. The chape is punched pre stitching of course but the holes for adjustment are the last thing I do

HTH

Charlie

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Posted (edited)

Another quick photo, similar to the last I guess

Oak bark tanned bridle leather, light brown Lin Cable, the edge finishing technique thats been discussed recently with the finish from Beraud

Charlie

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Edited by cjmt
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Posted

I like that Tangerine Goatskin. If you don't mind sharing, where'd you get it?

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Posted

Really nice work! The goatskin looks great. I've been working on a similar style of padded strap so I can concur, the level of concentration needed when working on something this delicate is really quite challenging as the smallest of imperfections end up looking really exaggerated. Looks like you're really perfecting your technique.

The knack with little fiddly things is to go slowly - dont rush complicated things and they arent that complicated on the whole. The art is in doing things in the right order and then not spoiling what youve already done by going at it hammer and tongs, imho at least

I absolutely agree. Making an ordered list of each process is the only way I can stop myself from rushing ahead, then having to back-track and ultimately making a mess.

Look forward to seeing more of your work

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Posted

Really nice work! The goatskin looks great. I've been working on a similar style of padded strap so I can concur, the level of concentration needed when working on something this delicate is really quite challenging as the smallest of imperfections end up looking really exaggerated. Looks like you're really perfecting your technique.

I absolutely agree. Making an ordered list of each process is the only way I can stop myself from rushing ahead, then having to back-track and ultimately making a mess.

Look forward to seeing more of your work

Thank you - I work hard on making each one of something better than the last one I made and my own philosophy is that perfection is an unatainable goal, you always can and should do better. I am not a patient person so I struggle with not rushing!

Charlie

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Another one, this time in Gold Barenia

Charlie

post-10779-0-46474200-1382896051_thumb.j

post-10779-0-29821500-1382896060_thumb.j

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Another one - not a prototype this time. This is 24mm wide oak bark tanned bridle leather with light brown lin cable made for a Panerai collector

Charlie

Great work Charlie, What's your company name?

John

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Posted

Great work Charlie, What's your company name?

John

Thanks John - seen your work as well which is all good stuff. The company is Equus Leather

Charlie

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Posted

Depends which leather, but generally direct from the tannery. We also buy via Abbey in the uk

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Posted

Another one - not a prototype this time. This is 24mm wide oak bark tanned bridle leather with light brown lin cable made for a Panerai collector

Charlie

Nice. What thread did you use. I'm new at leather works and wanted to learn. Thanks.

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Posted

Nice. What thread did you use. I'm new at leather works and wanted to learn. Thanks.

That strap used 532 Lin Cable in Marron I think

Charlie

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Posted

That strap used 532 Lin Cable in Marron I think

Charlie

thanks. and normally what leather do you use for the straps. apologies for my dumb questions - i am a newbie. you're a real craftsman. really nice work. wish i could do that, even for my own watch. looking at all your works i am guessing it will take me years to even come halfway to what you're doing.

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Posted

thanks. and normally what leather do you use for the straps. apologies for my dumb questions - i am a newbie. you're a real craftsman. really nice work. wish i could do that, even for my own watch. looking at all your works i am guessing it will take me years to even come halfway to what you're doing.

Thanks for the kind words

We use bridle leather that we thin down more than anything else, but there are photos of French Calf and Goatskin as well in this thread.

Theres never anything wrong with asking questions. This forum is an excellent resource, keep looking at photos of the type of thing you want to make and reading threads from those making that kind of stuff, theres a huge amount of info here if you piece it together. The thing that all the true craftspeople have in common (and there are many better than me here) is attention to detail, patience, and the desire to make the next thong you make better than the last thing you made. If you want to make beautiful things and you have the patience to learn and take the time to make something properly its not beyond anyone capable of operating the tools IMHO.

HTH

Charlie

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Posted
looking at all your works i am guessing it will take me years to even come halfway to what you're doing.

Nah, you'll be making nice stuff in no time. If you search threads by other makers, you'll be able to find detailed information for how to make these.

Good luck -- I've already found a lot of info elsewhere. PM me if you have questions.

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted

Watch buckles? We get the from watch obsession in the uk, there are quite a few sources though

Charlie

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Charlie,

Excellent, inspiring work. The detail you've gone into in this thread has been incredibly helpful as well.

One question--how do you handle the edge finishing around the leather keeper closest to the buckle? I'm assuming you sew it in before burnishing and sealing and whatnot, and I am having a hard time figuring out how you get such good results at the corners.

Forgive me for talking myself through this a bit, but maybe you are finishing the top and bottom layers independently where the keeper goes between them before stitching, and giving yourself a little room on either side for your slicker once you stitch everything up?

Thanks again!

Peter

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Posted

Hi,

Glad to have been of help!

If you have an area that can't be got at when the stitching has been done, like the area around the keeper I finish the edges of that area before the stitching. Its difficult to merge the two areas latter but theres no way I know of dying/finishing the bit around the keeper after you've sewn it in so its the way it has to be done I think, in the same way as the keeper itself is finished before its sewn in.

I hope that helps,

Charlie

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted

Real nice work you done there. I've got a question that may seem dumb but I cannot figure it out..Why the need for a filler layer in between the watch band? Why not just use a thicker piece folded over itself? It never occurred to me to use an extra piece as a filler in between. Is the filler only a smaller piece placed in the center or is it the same width as the watch band?

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