Watch Strap Prototype

[cjmt]

Given leather thick enough for the strap to feel substantial enough in the hand it's definitly not vital to have the central layer, and I do make straps without as well. The raised effect you get with it is attractive though and that's its point so I'd only use a thin piece, never the whole width of the strap

Hope that helps!

Charlie

[nick67]

Yes I agree with you that the raised effect looks very good. It never crossed my mind that there is another piece in between. Thanks for the information and explanation! Really generous with sharing your techniques and I respect you for that!

[cjmt]

Not at all, happy to help

Charlie

[cjmt]

Hi All,

Havet posted anything for a little while, so thought I'd put a few pictures on of recent work.

This is a prototype - natural veg tan treated with carnauba, intentionally not very protected to see how it patinates

This is a production piece, gold Barenia, 1 hole only and designed with the deployant its attached to in mind

Theres been quite a bit of interest on the forum about bricking irons, awls etc of late. For those interested both the straps are handstitched using 632 Ecru Lin Cable, no 10 Blanchard pricking irons and a 35mm blanchard awl.

Charlie

[Syms]

Beautiful straps! Those look extremely well made...thanks for sharing!

I love the way you've finished your edges.

Would love to hear more about what you're process with finishing edges entails!

Thanks@

[bjbwt2]

This is a great thread. You do awesome work. I'm inspired! I have a sthurling watch that the band has broken on 2x and they don't warranty the bands...

After checking out your pics I do have one question. How are you attaching the buckles to the strap ends? It looks like yours have a loop sewn in so maybe the buckles you use come apart for install? On a belt we would often use screws or rivets, but that doesn't make sense on a watch strap.

[cjmt]

This is a great thread. You do awesome work. I'm inspired! I have a sthurling watch that the band has broken on 2x and they don't warranty the bands...

After checking out your pics I do have one question. How are you attaching the buckles to the strap ends? It looks like yours have a loop sewn in so maybe the buckles you use come apart for install? On a belt we would often use screws or rivets, but that doesn't make sense on a watch strap.

Thank you, glad you like them

Watch buckles generally do come apart, they have spring or screw bars. You could stitch a buckle in if needs be though, you'd jut need to install it when the straps being stitched

Charlie

[edd]

If you dont mind me asking, how would one use glue as a temporary bond.?? What am I missing.?

The glue is relied on temporarily to bond all the components together, before they are sewn.

Charlie - any updates on the natural veg tan prototype? Looks great

[Eemo]

Im not 100% sure how Charlie does it, but... the glue is only there to hold the pieces together for stitching.

the stitching holds the pieces together (no permanent glue) and the edge work seals the edges. The piece does not need glue to hold it together.

[Eemo]

Lack of glue offends you?

[Eemo]

well there you go snowflake.

You can get offended, by my estimate of the realization of your own poor technique or you could ask relevant questions about how to perfect the art of making a watch strap?

If I were you, I would personally ask detailed questions on how to perfect edges. I bet it's not edge kote from tandy.

Edited July 3, 2014 by Eemo

[Eemo]

what's up with the gap between the 2 pieces?

take a look at this. similar techniques as you?

http://youtu.be/eaADWGGKMSM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s

look. this is going to be a straight up pissing contest. im leaving this here. use glue, it's fine. choose not to, fine aswell. but getting offensive about different and mind you a very proper technique makes you sound like an ass.

Edited July 3, 2014 by Eemo

[cjmt]

Guys, am not sure bickering over terminology is terrifically helpful. Sticks - if you have a question to ask I would suggest asking it rather than bandying about terms like dishonest - I suspect you will find its not conducive to helpful discussion

I use glue to hold things together pre stitching, as I stated. The component parts of the strap cant move when its stitching or the precision necessary wont be there. Its also critical to a professional edge finish that the two layers stay together when being finished, and the glueing process is part of that, though really the stitching and creasing are the key bits and it could all be done with no glue at all, allbeit it would be a pain in the neck to keep everything aligned. The glue is still there afterward of course, but its irrelevant to the strap, if it looses it stick there would be no change. The glue therefore isnt structural, or at least not for more than an hour or so. I think that was reasonably clear from what I wrote, feel free to rephrase it though if you prefer though. By permanent gluing I largely meant turned edge straps that arent stitched at all, though I have also seen it used structuraly in other ways as well, either way they inevitably fail quickly

[cjmt]

No, Eemo is right, I was being an idiot. Apologies to Eemo et al.

I understand now what you mean/t

thnx.

No worries, thanks for the apology. Text isnt always a great medium for nuance, easy to get the wrong end of the stick

Charlie

[Eemo]

no worries and I'm sorry too for getting a bit heated.

[biglew]

thank you for an informative and lively thread.. I too am interested In making a few straps

[tossik]

Do you always use Blanchard N.10? Great work by the way!

[cjmt]

Do you always use Blanchard N.10? Great work by the way!

Thanks! I do for watch straps. You could go finer but it's a nice stitch size I think

Charlie

[hitokiri8]

I just stumbled on this thread and love the work you're doing! Definitely among the best watch straps I've seen. Curious about how you're achieving the desired thicknesses/weight of the leather. Are you ordering in 1mm thicknesses or splitting down to those thicknesses using a machine? Or perhaps by hand?

Keep up the great work and I'll have to save up to purchase a strap!

[cjmt]

I just stumbled on this thread and love the work you're doing! Definitely among the best watch straps I've seen. Curious about how you're achieving the desired thicknesses/weight of the leather. Are you ordering in 1mm thicknesses or splitting down to those thicknesses using a machine? Or perhaps by hand?

Keep up the great work and I'll have to save up to purchase a strap!

Thanks for the kind words! Sorry I haven't replied earlier, I missed the post. Most of our straps are made using leather thats already the right thickness from the tannery or merchant - much easier that way, though given a big enough splitter it could be done on site.

Charlie

[mishkin]

I also recently came across this thread. Charlie thank you so much for sharing all the knowledge and showing such nice watch straps. Would you mind revealing how you create such fine creases on the edges of the straps?

[cjmt]

I also recently came across this thread. Charlie thank you so much for sharing all the knowledge and showing such nice watch straps. Would you mind revealing how you create such fine creases on the edges of the straps?

I use a filiteuse with a creasing attachment but you could narrow bladed traditional creasing iron as well, the effect would be similar.

Charlie

[mishkin]

I use a filiteuse with a creasing attachment but you could narrow bladed traditional creasing iron as well, the effect would be similar.

Charlie

Thanks, Charlie.

[Pip]

Yes, basically exactly that, some goat or thinned bridle leather stitched around a spacer. We hand stitch everything, including these. They are basically very simple things - the devil is in the detail though and I find you (or at least I) have to try really hard on something this little and fiddly to get the finish and detail just right, they are very unforgiving and really show up flaws in your work.

Charlie

Yes I get you, been trying for days to get one right but still not happy with the edges. Did you use edge seal, or some such, or just burnish?

Pip

[Madebynick]

Charlie!

This was very inspiring work! I had been meaning to try a watch strap for a while now. Here is my first attempt (without edge treatment / hot glazing - pictures to follow detailing this process)

Thank you.

Edited April 3, 2015 by Madebynick