Eemo

I can skive with my old fortuna pretty well, but knowledge never hurt anyone I guess...

hey, anyone have a motor recommendation and any pics of setups with an extra motor installed afterwards? -eero

I got a question, anyone ever made a curved end strap?

hey alex, I do a drawing with a mm paper: and make the core piece/padding out of that one. then gluing, cutting etc the top leather plus the lining is pretty easy.

A couple of questions. Using the watch strap, do you do any measures to prevent the buckle holes from stretching too much? I find that some of my straps, after a year of use, become too loose to wear. Another, what is your preferences for the lining? thanks! bonus pics of some of my straps.

ah, sorry for that one. tape measure?

very nice!

curve arount the wrist? Watch straps usually come in pretty standard sizes, use those! I usually just do something like 12cm for the long strap and 7cm for the buckle strap when finished. maybe 2cm extra to fold the ends for the watch pins. unless you train with weights and your wrists are huge.

Hey, Do you know what is the product number or ID for the Stahl paint? thanks, Eero

Please, Tannery haas for their barenia leather seems to be hard to find for the bespoke craftsman.

no worries and I'm sorry too for getting a bit heated.

what's up with the gap between the 2 pieces? take a look at this. similar techniques as you? http://youtu.be/eaADWGGKMSM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s look. this is going to be a straight up pissing contest. im leaving this here. use glue, it's fine. choose not to, fine aswell. but getting offensive about different and mind you a very proper technique makes you sound like an ass.

well there you go snowflake. You can get offended, by my estimate of the realization of your own poor technique or you could ask relevant questions about how to perfect the art of making a watch strap? If I were you, I would personally ask detailed questions on how to perfect edges. I bet it's not edge kote from tandy.

Lack of glue offends you?

Im not 100% sure how Charlie does it, but... the glue is only there to hold the pieces together for stitching. the stitching holds the pieces together (no permanent glue) and the edge work seals the edges. The piece does not need glue to hold it together.

mindblowing. wow!

European style edge working is the only thing that really works on chrome tanned leather...

Is there a lining in those? very nice!

So i went ahead and ordered a dixon pricking iron... about 3 weeks ago. nothing. no pricking iron, no replies to mails, nothing. how long do they usually take to get something to the customer? im in the EU, usually stuff from the uk takes less than a week.

sweet! thanks!!!

doy you remember the tannery of the goat skin?

beraud ct0 edge paint and heating tool is what you're looking for....

greg, please do! that would be awesome!

It works, but veg tan burns real easy. Careful with the heat!

SO, I got my fileteuse from mando with one psu, 2 handles with 2 tips. I think the psu is a pretty basic, similar to a soldering station power supply. You could potentially buy a soldering station and just modify the cable adapter to use the mando handles... At least that's what Im going to do or at least try it out. Maybe I should write a disclaimer here, lol! Got my edge paint from beraud aswell. We'll see how this goes. I have used normal black edge kote, let it dry, rub beeswax to the edge and then use the hot edge to get a pretty good end result. No idea of the durability of the edge yet though. The beraud ct0 paint doesn't seem to have a lot of wax in it. it's pretty thin paint. Any special recipes with that particular paint? Oh yeah, use a piece of scap to figure out the correct heat when making marks to the leather with the hot iron. Every time you use it. It can burn pretty quick if too hot.