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coreysyms

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  1. Thanks for the kind words Don. It's not a wood working chisel it's a leather chisel I only really use for slits and button collars or other tight small straight line cuts I need. $5 From Springfield leather. Noting special about it pick one up http://springfieldleather.com/42606/Chisel%2CLeather%2CStraight%2C15/
  2. Being a hobbyist I can't afford to carry multiple specialized tools so I always use a round punch the size of the neck not the top of the thumb press button and then punch my straight line with a 1/2" straight chisel putting the edge of the straight punch at the back of the first hole, then at the top of the newly punched straight line I punch my smallest hole punch at the top. I wet the large hole and use either a pointed slicker or just my scratch all and slick the inside of the edge of the large hole. The small hole helps prevent any unnecessary creases or tears. Here is a pic of a key belt ring Ive been carrying for a while.
  3. I use a touch of neetsfoot oil compound on the flesh side before working if I know my leather has been sitting for a while. Also. I always damped the leather before I dye, but I'm using Tandy water based dyes. Keeps the splotching down to min. Then finish with Otterwax leather salve and oil, always comes out buttery soft for me with even color.
  4. I have always used Tiger Thread, 0.8 to 1.0 is a good all around size. Variety of colors. It's flat braided waxed poly. Super Strong. You can find samples or full spools on Etsy pretty easy. Just search for shops in the US for faster shipping.
  5. @mikeg @kiwican thanks guys! @25b I never said I invented the idea...
  6. You know, sometimes it's not the nice new leather thing, but the old favorite reimagined and repurposed that people love. Had a buddy that wanted a wallet, he loved baseball so I asked him to "sacrifice" his old baseball glove for the wallet. I was able to pull out quite a bit of leather and piece together the wallet using a baseball stitch. Lined it with canvas and he now has something that is his and only his. It may not "look" the nicest, cause man did he use that glove, but for the old ball player now retired it's a sentimental favorite.
  7. @hilton1 Not sure what they will give you for it but the horse harness folks will buy your machine, or post here, or eBay.
  8. @hilton1, go to this site, http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html and get the phone number, call them and talk with someone about it, they are the most knowledgeable people about the old singer 29k parts I know, and they have helped me out in the past. Also, they have the original owners manual and that helped me a great deal with getting mine to run. I thought I needed more parts too, but it turns out, I was just threading it wrong! I ordered the threading wire and mine runs like a top now. Pretty much all the 29k- (whatever-s) are interchangeable I do know that, and all the models barely changed throughout most of its life, I used parts for my 1908 29-4 from a 1927 29k-58. Also, this guy did a bit of a walk through blog getting his 29-4 running, and i used his pattern to make a flat wood table like his for flat leather work. http://rickaverill.com/scope-covers-picture/singer-29-4/ Good luck!
  9. Not detrimental at all to do a bunch of one off custom work, but I would say you should focus on your brand, and what it is you do and how you do it in each product. I have made everything from jeans and shirts to toll rolls and woman's bags but they all look like I did it, my style, people come to me because they like my style. Starting out, you should try different techniques and styles and methods, but once you start seeing a cohesiveness across your items in style and construction build on that. You want to have something to go back to, a mantra, or mission statement, something more than "quality made blah blah". Something more specific. When someone wants something custom done stick to it. Say ok, I can make that for you, let me sketch it out, show it to them, and stick to your guns, don't let them change it all around, this is what you do and how you do it and they came to you because they liked what you did in the past. You will find what items you really like working on and by then have a your own take to it. And looking back at the things you made you will see it all make sense. It's not about making a leather item, it's about the leather item YOU made.
  10. what about a making a leather washer instead of using metal eyelets
  11. Table top edge rollers work really well, I don't use one cause I just don't do enough inventory, but I know of a lot of small batch guys that swear by it, it looks like the thing restaurants use to butter bread, like this one, can't speak to if the Tandy one is crap... or if you should look to another brand. http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/product/table-top-edge-dyeing-roller-3010-00.aspx
  12. I don't think your sewing technique is the issue. I always wet the leather with water before bending. Never had an issue with cracking or wrinkling. Of course if you bend in the opposite direction of the finished side, it will wrinkle. I don't machine leather much, but when I do I use a walking foot, seems to work well for me. try the water, that should help you out.
  13. I really like that inside pocket too, what distance holes were you running for stitching? Also, if you don't mind me asking, what brand hole chisel punch did you use? Looks really nice, great work.
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