AllBugs Report post Posted October 3, 2013 I apologize in advance if this has been posted here before. I tried searching it out, and after 45 minutes of reading threads that didn't answer my question, I figured I'd just post it here. Do you have any tips for dyeing the flesh side (the fuzzy back side) of veg tan leather? I've been using thinned down Fiebings spirit dyes and they work great for the grain side, but look horrible if I apply them to the flesh side. I've had them soak all the way through so that dark splotches show up on the grain side, and often the edges take in more dye than the rest, so they darken considerably more. I also don't know of a good way to seal the dye in so that it wouldn't bleed all over the place. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you all can provide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 3, 2013 First thing's first. If it's "Fuzzy", take care of that. If I have a fuzzy piece, I'll lightly shave it with my knife and then sand with a couple grits of paper to get it as smooth as possible. Then, wet it down and slick it with a bone folder or glass slicker. If you don't have either of those, I've used a sharpie in the past with good results. Now that the back is burnished (and your edges should be properly burnished as before dying as well), apply your dye, building up the coverage. Once it's the color you want, apply Resolene or other finish of your choice just as you would the rest of your project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgleathercraft Report post Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) Then, wet it down and slick it with a bone folder or glass slicker. I've had a similar issue before and used Gum Tragacanth for the slicking process. it seemed to be working as a resist to the dye. When I went to apply the finish to the slicked back and edges some of the stain rubbed off, revealing the natural color below. Live and learn I guess. Edited October 3, 2013 by cgleathercraft Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted October 3, 2013 What the above 2 said and then try to dip dye and see if that works for you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 3, 2013 I've had a similar issue before and used Gum Tragacanth for the slicking process. it seemed to be working as a resist to the dye. When I went to apply the finish to the slicked back and edges some of the stain rubbed off, revealing the natural color below. Live and learn I guess. Gum trag is nothing more than a glue. It holds down the fibers until it wears off, where a good burnishing will actually KEEP the fibers down. Gum Trag is something the the STORE has promoted as an easy way to do edging and slicking, but it's really just an easy way out of making a good product. Another thing about gum trag is that it's abrasive, so never use it on the back of something that's going to come in contact with the skin. Tom - 99.999% of my stuff is dyed multiple colors, so dip-dying doesn't work for me at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted October 3, 2013 Dip dyeing is definitely out then <g>... Yeah. Any wax, sealer, gum trag, lacquer etc will block the dye. If I need a smooth back, I sand, do any stamping or carving, then dye, burnish the edges, seal the top on oil or burnish the back and possibly seal it. All depends on what I'm making. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 3, 2013 If I need a smooth back, I sand, do any stamping or carving, then dye, burnish the edges, seal the top on oil or burnish the back and possibly seal it. All depends on what I'm making. Any time I dye the back I seal it up with Resolene, but I do mostly guitar straps and belts. So, I'm terrified of someone coming back upset because they got sweaty and my strap colored their shirt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
