Sealer For Belts

[robertmeco]

What can I use to keep the dye from bleeding off my belts

Thank you

Robert

[robertmeco]

Bump

[Cameroo]

I have yet to find a finish that I 100% trust. I've tried Tandy's Super and Satin Sheen, and Fiebings Resolene (best I've tried so far), but have had bleeding with all of them if the leather gets damp or wet (like from sweating). I'd like to hear what other people suggest too. I know a lot of members here swear by Resolene, but I have had some problems with it.

[dkbutcher]

I'm trying to learn the same thing. I am still doing bracelets but have had a little trouble with wrist staining. My next step is trying resolene (it just arrived yesterday). I'm looking forward to reading the responses over the weekend.

Dave

[dkbutcher]

... (duplicate post)

Edited October 12, 2013 by dkbutcher

[robertmeco]

Thank you

[El Zipster]

If the belt is not lined then I use Fiebiings Tan Kote on the back side and Resolene mixed 50/50 with water on the Front (two coats minimum), If it is a lined belt I like to leave the lining natural so just apply a finish of Resolene as above to protect it from sweat and the like. The Tan Kote works really well on the back of the belt as it slicks any fuzz as well as sealing.

Cheers

Zip

[farmkidkoko]

I've never had problems with Super Shene. But I put a lot of coats on! (Probably five or so - - paranoia. Hahaha!)

I should add that the Satin Shene drives me kind of crazy. It always gums up on me really fast for some reason, and the projects end up with thick patches on them. Super Shene's never done that to me.

[Dwight]

Not meaning to sound harsh, . . . but if you are having trouble with Resolene, . . . you are not doing something right.

First, . . . after the dying process, . . . it must be dry, . . . DRY, . . . no fudging here.

Then you have to polish off all the excess pigment, . . . use an old washcloth or piece of a bath towel, . . . rub & polish until no more pigment comes off.

Mix resolend 50/50 with water, . . . cold tap water, . . . NOT HOT water.

Next, . . . get a cheap 1 inch bristle brush, . . . dip it in the resolene and start brushing it on, . . . you want enough to throroughly saturate both sides of the belt and the edges. Brush it on until you build a slight lather like accumulation of bubbles.

Then quit adding material, . . . start brushing out the bubbles, . . . brush left, right, up, down, crossways, . . . until the bubbles disappear, . . . hang up to dry and leave it alone for 24 hours or so.

I've absolutely never, . . . not once, . . . had any dye bleed through after this process.

May God bless,

Dwight

[dkbutcher]

Not meaning to sound harsh, . . . but if you are having trouble with Resolene, . . . you are not doing something right.

First, . . . after the dying process, . . . it must be dry, . . . DRY, . . . no fudging here.

Then you have to polish off all the excess pigment, . . . use an old washcloth or piece of a bath towel, . . . rub & polish until no more pigment comes off.

Mix resolend 50/50 with water, . . . cold tap water, . . . NOT HOT water.

Next, . . . get a cheap 1 inch bristle brush, . . . dip it in the resolene and start brushing it on, . . . you want enough to throroughly saturate both sides of the belt and the edges. Brush it on until you build a slight lather like accumulation of bubbles.

Then quit adding material, . . . start brushing out the bubbles, . . . brush left, right, up, down, crossways, . . . until the bubbles disappear, . . . hang up to dry and leave it alone for 24 hours or so.

I've absolutely never, . . . not once, . . . had any dye bleed through after this process.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks for the info Dwight! This is what I'll be doing next (maybe today).

Dave