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I've noticed there seems to be some concern about rust with regard to stamping tools. I have a number of old tools that were made out of bolts and nails and who knows what and they all accumulate surface rust. This doesn't concern me at all. Most of these old tools develop a patina, rather than surface rust. The ones made of nails seem to rust the worst, I suppose, due to the poor quality of the steel. I just make a few impressions on a piece of scrap and I'm ready to go. As Art said, you could use a little Ballistol (good tip Art, I hadn't thought of that) or you could spray the entire tool with some clear acrylic if you're really worried about it and want them to stay shiney (I would avoid the impression surface). However, I really don't think it's a problem. I have modified a lot of Tandy tools, they rusted, I used them...no big deal. For me, my old rusty handmade tools are sort of point of pride...I know that there aren't any others like them! I just purchased an old veiner from Bob Douglas that was made out of a nail and I bought some of Ellis' new steel tools and can't wait for them to turn dark. When you look at my rack of tools, you won't see much chrome...and I like it that way!

Mike I didn't mean to change your subject here...I probably should have stated a new topic...but I noticed the concerns and just charged ahead. Sorry!

Just some rambling thoughts....

Bob

Edited by hidepounder
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Posted

To add to Bob's post, I have about 30+ tools from Bob Dellis that Ray Pohja made for him (a couple of them were made by others but the majority were made by Ray) while they were working at Porters. I use several of these quite a bit and they are literally bolts and a couple of nails. I have had no problems with them and I know that Bob tooled with them a lot more than I have ever done.

I also have about another 40-50 that are made by various others that are bolts and nails.

I can honestly attest to the fact that there is no issue. These tools are not blued, browned or anything.

That's my mileage and yours may vary but up to this point it has never been an issue for me.

Regards,

Ben

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Posted

To prevent active rust on your carbon steel stamps and black marks on your leather get some mild acid such as oxcilic acid, distilled vinegar, lemon juice or whatever.

Remove all active rust with steel wool steel wire brush (not brass) small tooth brush type works fine for those crevices, you may need to use some small pick such as a needle for small areas. Once the rust and scale has been removed wash the stamps with a strong grease cutter to remove any crease and oil. Place the tools in the mild acid and let stand and agitate from time to time until you see a darkening of the stamps. When darkening appears remove the stamps and rinse with clear water. Let air dry and repeat the dip process again. The stamps may require three or four treatments to build up a good layer of oxidation which will help keep them from rusting.

Once you are satisfied with the oxidizing rinse let air dry and spray with WD 40 once the WD 40 dries buff the stamps with a very stiff rag such as canvass. Once you have finished buffing you should wash stamps in a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent to remove WD 40, dry tools well with a hair dryer and you should be in good shape for no rust or black marks on your leather. This oxidizing process serves the same as bluing on steel.

The color of the oxidation will very from light grey to dark black depending on the steel alloy of your stamps and the number of treatments you use.

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Posted
To prevent active rust on your carbon steel stamps and black marks on your leather get some mild acid such as oxcilic acid, distilled vinegar, lemon juice or whatever.

Remove all active rust with steel wool steel wire brush (not brass) small tooth brush type works fine for those crevices, you may need to use some small pick such as a needle for small areas. Once the rust and scale has been removed wash the stamps with a strong grease cutter to remove any crease and oil. Place the tools in the mild acid and let stand and agitate from time to time until you see a darkening of the stamps. When darkening appears remove the stamps and rinse with clear water. Let air dry and repeat the dip process again. The stamps may require three or four treatments to build up a good layer of oxidation which will help keep them from rusting.

Once you are satisfied with the oxidizing rinse let air dry and spray with WD 40 once the WD 40 dries buff the stamps with a very stiff rag such as canvass. Once you have finished buffing you should wash stamps in a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent to remove WD 40, dry tools well with a hair dryer and you should be in good shape for no rust or black marks on your leather. This oxidizing process serves the same as bluing on steel.

The color of the oxidation will very from light grey to dark black depending on the steel alloy of your stamps and the number of treatments you use.

Thanks for posting this.....I didn't know it was that easy!

Bob

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Posted

Hey Bob!

I don't consider this my thread and your thoughts on rust worries are right on target. Ellis Barnes and I talked about this a little bit during a phone conversation. That brings up another thought. If you want to talkt to a master metalsmith who has probably forgotten more about tool making than any of us are likely to learn, give Ellis a call at his shop. He will expound at length, give his unvarnished opinion (occasionally profane) and I always wind up with a grin for having called him.

And I should mention, I'm a big fan of your tooling Bob!

Mike

My choice early in life was either to be a piano-player in a whorehouse or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference.

Harry S. Truman

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