leatherorpleather Report post Posted November 10, 2013 Hi guys I wanted to stamp leather with ink and seal it with mink/neatsfoot oil. Does that work? I don't want to pay 37 bucks for a custom ink stamp and not have it work! Here is the site I found if anyones interested http://www.thestampmaker.com/Departments/Upload-Your-Own-Design.aspx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veedub3 Report post Posted November 10, 2013 There is a post on here where the member discussed where he used rubber stamps and archival inks (The inks you but at hobby stores) as well as the rubber stamps with dye inks to make his designs. The post is still up, but unfortunately the pictures have been removed. Here is the post - scroll to the bottom to read his process: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46247 Good Luck! Karina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WinterBear Report post Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) I have used both ink and leather dye to stamp on veg tan leather with rubber stamps. Leather dye and the permanent ink do both stain the heck out of the rubber stamp and the alcohol based types can dry out the "rubber" on older stamps and can start to degrade them. Drying out isn't a problem with newer stamps though. The best inks are permanent inks that are meant for semi-permeable or impermeable (non-porous) surfaces (like StazOn), but any of the permanent archival inks do a good job as well (Ranger), and even plain archival inks will work as long as you are careful not to smear until the ink is completely dry (Colorbox). You can even use sponge daubers and inks or leather dyes to use stencils with some really nice effects, but this works best if the stencil is plastic and placed slick-side down on slightly dampened leather to really stick that stencil to the leather while you dye. The stencils can be used to create very soft shading of things like flower petals in the stencil openings, but the dampness needed to do this means the edges may not be sharp depending on the characteristics of the leather and how much the inks wick through the dampened leather, and smearing and bleeding can be a problem because of this. Okay, I'm wandering and getting off topic too much... Anyway, you might find this blog of some use: http://www.rings-thi...r/#.Un_EjCflbK0 If you want to sell your items made with rubber stamps, you might want to make sure the maker of your stamp has an "angel clause" or "angel policy". Some rubber stamp makers restrict if things made with their stamps can be sold (which makes me wonder what's the point of buying their stamp?). Here is a list of various companies angel policies (http://rubberstampin...AngelPolicy.htm). It is a place to start, but it is always a good idea to go to the company's website to make sure they haven't changed their policy. Some companies have no restriction. Some forbid selling items made with portions of their product lines. Some limit the number of stamped products sold in a calendar year. Some require that the item be accompanied by a tag stating that the artwork is from their company's stamps. Some limit the use of their stamps for sales materials (e.g., the stamp may not be used on any part of the display or packaging). And so on. Here is a link to Stampin'Up's policy as an example, which has some restrictions for items made for resale, like that the maker must also stamp the item with a proprietary Stampin' Up Limited License stamp, which of course, much be purchased from the company. http://www.stampinup...us/enu/5293.asp It's enough to drive a body crazy. Oh, an addition--I don't use mink or neatsfoot oil as a sealer, so I don't know how well that works. However, sometimes neatsfoot will cause a bit of ink bleed or smear when I condition the leather after stamping. You may wish to experiment. Edited November 10, 2013 by WinterBear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Egyptian Report post Posted June 26, 2015 I know this thread is old, but I am really interested in learning more about stamping leather with ink/dye. Does anyone have any more information about this? Ink they've used successfully? Specifically I need an ink that wont wear off after being sealed, or an ink that works on finished/dyed leather. Maybe just regular black Fiebing's oil dye? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veedub3 Report post Posted June 26, 2015 I tried this in Feb 13' right after a member posted photos showing his work, for a notebook for my niece. I successfully used archival ink from Hobby lobby and regular Fiebings oil dye on vegtan. (I have not done this on pre-dyed leather) It was very colorful as I used at least 6 different colors and they all showed up well on the vegtan except the yellow was a tad muted. This was over two years ago and the last time I saw the notebook it looked even better because the vegan has patina'd a great deal. I waited a few days before I finished the notebook, and I think I just used some Aussie conditioner, and a spray finish that I got from Tandy that came in a can. (Can't think of the name of it right now - sorry.) Note-: Usually pre-dyed leather already have a finish on it, so not sure how well this technique would work, but you could always test it out and post your results here to help others that are thinking about doing this. Karina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasLady Report post Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) I'm glad egyptian picked up the scent on this thread and renewed interest in it. Winter Bear had so many interesting things to tell us! Forgive me, but as I read it I was thinking, "This man is really smart." And then I choked when I saw that Winter Bear is female. Eh. "That lady is really smart." I love to carve things, like erasers, into stamps. I've even used a dremel to carve onyx into a seal. These were Chinese name seals for stamping watercolor paintings. They were my own original artwork and I sought out local Chinese people to help me with the 'translation'. The dremel drill was pretty much eaten up in the process, so "cost effective" it was NOT. But it was a beautiful seal. I kept samples of print from it, but sadly did not take a picture of it, and I gave it away to a fellow artist several years ago. I "hear you" Winter Bear about using stamps made by other people and their companies. I would like to improve my technique and materials a little and then begin offering my services to make stamps and stencils for other leatherworkers. I would research how to make a fair profit for my work, and then give the client full ownership over his stamps and stencils. The only thing I would want would be to be able to show examples of the work I've done to future clients, in person or online. So, for this purpose, I would keep my original work. ...something like this should be possible to work out. I just really love carving stamps. Edited July 3, 2015 by TexasLady Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Egyptian Report post Posted July 7, 2015 Well I finally tried it out, on finished leather it was a little hard to get it to look like a solid stamp, the texture of the leather caused the ink to spread out in the tiny cracks slightly. I assumed it was because it was finished so the ink couldn't soak in. On unfinished leather it looked great! The stamp was much more solid and after being sealed it has not rubbed off in the slightest. I might try a different piece of finished leather later and see if it looks any better. I used StazOn black ink, and three regular rubber stamps. I will try Fiebing's soon and see how that goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasLady Report post Posted July 13, 2015 Good for you! I'm happy for your success. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wifeoftodd07 Report post Posted July 5, 2017 On 7/7/2015 at 0:49 AM, Egyptian said: Well I finally tried it out, on finished leather it was a little hard to get it to look like a solid stamp, the texture of the leather caused the ink to spread out in the tiny cracks slightly. I assumed it was because it was finished so the ink couldn't soak in. On unfinished leather it looked great! The stamp was much more solid and after being sealed it has not rubbed off in the slightest. I might try a different piece of finished leather later and see if it looks any better. I used StazOn black ink, and three regular rubber stamps. I will try Fiebing's soon and see how that goes. What did you seal it with? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Egyptian Report post Posted July 6, 2017 10 hours ago, wifeoftodd07 said: What did you seal it with? Hard to remember, I believe I used Fiebing's Leather Sheen: https://www.amazon.com/Fiebing-Fiebings-Leather-Sheen-4oz/dp/B00AU6LIK0/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499325491&sr=8-2&keywords=fiebings+seal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites