Dark Effect On Tooled Leather

[3ntin]

Hi!

I have a question for you experts: I saw lots of pics on the Internet of tooled leather pieces that became a little darker where tooled. I'll post an example:

http://www.leathercraftstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2nd-comparison.jpeg

on the lower picture you'll see what I mean...the carved leather being darker than its natural color. Does it depend on the quality/kind of leather, on casing it or what?? I think that's the way to acheve effects like the one on the first picture with finishers...isn't it?

Thanks a lot!

[camano ridge]

If properly cased you leather will look a little darker in the tooled areas. You are compressing the leather in the tooled area and in a way you are somewhat burnishing the leater as you move the tool over the surface of the leather. If you oil and sun tan the leather you will get a little bit more pronounced darkening. To realy get the contrast you would use a resist on the raised or untooled areas and then use a high liter or antique to darken the cuts and depressions then wipe off the excess leaving the untooled or raised areas lighter.

[Sylvia]

I agree with Camano. Properly cased leather. Now if you ask the question what is "properly cased." you are going to get a few answers. I like to wet my leather, stick it in a plastic bag, place it in a cool area (some folks put it in the fridge). 8-12 hours later flip it over... then the next day let the surface return to the dry color and start tooling

folks have asked me why I flip the leather half way through the casing time. I think it allows the water to reach the center of the leather better. It seems to work for me.

[mlapaglia]

Here is an example of using a resist to protect the leather and they using an antique gel to just color the depressions of the stamps. First is just the pattern and then the pattern with an antique jell. Its another way to color the stamped area. Keep in mind, these were test pieces when I was first learning.

Edited November 23, 2013 by mlapaglia

[3ntin]

@Camano: What about oiling leather??

I found another picture of the effect I really would to achieve...http://www.klendasaddlery.com/images/design/100_0191.jpg

do you think it's difficult? How can I do??

[JLSleather]

As a rule, I don't know why people use that antique stuff. Looks a bit like someone puked on perfectly good leather

Here, Bob (Klenda) has used it to make a VERY simple design (not intricate or time consuming) look VERY nice. Now, that could be an antique PASTE, or a GEL, or even an antique DYE (and one old boy used to put Fiebing's dye in Tan-Kote for a nice effect). Best bet, if you really want to know, I'd send a message to Bob -- he just might have the time to tell you what he used.

[Bob Blea]

Looking at that picture it definitely looks antiqued, at least in my eyes. I get results like that following the same procedure that Camano described. Oiling leather will usually darken it some, but it darkens the leather overall, not just in the tooling depressions like you see in the picture. Antiquing the leather darkens the depressions and provides more contrast.

[camano ridge]

Like Bob said oiling darkens all the leather you do get a little contrast in the tooled areas but not to the extent you get with antique or High lite. It takes a little practice to do the antiqueing right so it does not look like puke. However it is not difficult and is used by Chan Geer and others with far more expertise then I have. If I am not mistaken and Bob can correct me if I am wrong. I believe Bobs Avatar is a very good example of antiqueing. Attached is a picture of a knife sheath I di just usin oil and suntanned for a few hours. Also a picture of a saddle bag I am working on theat is done with Saddle Tan High lite. Sorry I ran out real quick and snapped a picture for this post so the lighting is not that great but i think you will get the idea.

Edited December 6, 2013 by camano ridge

[Bob Blea]

Thanks Camano for the compliment, and yes that notebook was antiqued. I've got a better picture of a similar notebook where the contrast was even stronger than my avatar one.

This one had a darker antique and I did a good job with the resist layer. I use Wyosheen as a resist.

Bob

[3ntin]

thanks for the answers!!

Now I have only to understand how to apply properly the resistant and try...=)

I have Eco-Flo super shene, is it ok? Do I have to apply it wuth a brush, sponge or other methods?

[Chief31794]

Eco Flo Super Shene will resist, but it is not very good at doing go, a better resist is Clear Lac available from almost anyone but Tandy, for example Springfield Leather Company. If you must use super shene make sure you let it dry at least 12 and preferably 24 hours befor applying the antique. Highly recommend you try Clear Lac.

Chief

[robertmeco]

Eco Flo Super Shene will resist, but it is not very good at doing go, a better resist is Clear Lac available from almost anyone but Tandy, for example Springfield Leather Company. If you must use super shene make sure you let it dry at least 12 and preferably 24 hours befor applying the antique. Highly recommend you try Clear Lac.

Chief

Eco Flo Super Shene will resist, but it is not very good at doing go, a better resist is Clear Lac available from almost anyone but Tandy, for example Springfield Leather Company. If you must use super shene make sure you let it dry at least 12 and preferably 24 hours befor applying the antique. Highly recommend you try Clear Lac.

Chief

Will Clear Lac prevent a belt from bleeding Thank you in advance

[3ntin]

I made an attempt...it turned out very well, with deep and clear carvings, but no darker effect... I'll try using Eco-Flo antique gel...(is it good? what do you think?)

[Bob Blea]

I made an attempt...it turned out very well, with deep and clear carvings, but no darker effect... I'll try using Eco-Flo antique gel...(is it good? what do you think?)

I use the Eco-Flo antique gels pretty much exclusively. That's what I used on the picture I posted earlier. You will need to use a resist (clear lac, Wyosheen, etc) to get the effect in my picture though, otherwise the antique will darken all of the leather, not just your depressions.

Bob

[Bob Blea]

Will Clear Lac prevent a belt from bleeding Thank you in advance

I can't say from experience, but I would not trust it to completely eliminate the problem. You need to buff off the excess dye first, then apply the finish coat of Clear Lac or whatever you like. Finish coats will wear off eventually, so any dye particles you didn't buff off would eventually be exposed. However, a more immediate problem could be that any dye particles you don't buff off can get caught up in your finish when you apply it and get smeared around. If you aren't dyeing a single solid color you could get bleeding to other areas.

Bob