Simple Leather Armor

[Dwight]

Actually, . . . that should be fairly simple to make.

It looks like the builder sewed a cloth backing onto the leather, . . . and may have riveted the whole thing together, . . .

If you look at my image, . . . make the pieces in the order of the numbers, . . . 1, then 2, the 3, etc.

Make each one an inch taller and an inch wider than they will show when finally done for pieces 1, 2, and 3. Number 4 needs to be longer than shown so it can be sewn onto 5.

Then sew 2 onto the top of 1, three onto the top of 2, both 4's on the sides, both 5's on the top, and complete with # 6. Or you an rivet them together in the same sequence.

You could make this from thin leather cut with scissors to really thick stuff for wooden sword competition.

I'd also buy pre dyed leather for this, . . . saves a lot of work.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited December 17, 2013 by Dwight

[TRed01]

Thanks, Dwight! Your instructions are very clear! I need it to be at least 4mm thick which is the minimum allowed by the rules of the game I play. So I basically have two options: 1) I could make the general shape with 4mm leather and then apply on top of it 2mm thick leather crust to make all the details or 2) make everything with 4mm leather.

Also when do I have to boil the leather to harden it? Do I boil it after I've sewn all the pieces togheter?

Edited December 18, 2013 by TRed01

[Dwight]

Thanks, Dwight! Your instructions are very clear! I need it to be at least 4mm thick which is the minimum allowed by the rules of the game I play. So I basically have two options: 1) I could make the general shape with 4mm leather and then apply on top of it 2mm thick leather crust to make all the details or 2) make everything with 4mm leather.

Also when do I have to boil the leather to harden it? Do I boil it after I've sewn all the pieces togheter?

Stop right there my friend.

We don't BOIL the leather. All we do is dunk it in hot water. And the water should NOT be hot enough to burn your hand.

It should not be over 130 degrees farenheit.

Do all the construction work, . . . sewing, buckles, rivets, cutting, . . . . get all that done first. THEN, . . . dunk it in a big pan of really warm water. Using 4mm leather, it should probably be in there about 30 seconds or so, . . . you want to make sure it gets water all the way through, . . . not just the surface.

Then, . . . carefully hand mold it to the final shape you want it to be. Be very careful to roll out the edges of the neck hole and arm holes, . . . it will cut down on chafing later on, . . . as well as rolling up the bottom edge a bit. That will add immense strength to the bottom panels of your armor.

AFTER you have molded it to the shape, . . . put it in front of a fan or lay it where there is a lot of good air circulation. You want to leave it alone for at least 24 hours, . . . LET IT DRY. Moving it about while it is drying will result it a less than satisfactory product.

After it is dry, . . . you can stain or paint it to your heart's content, . . .

AND, . . . don't forget to bring pictures back here and let us see the final product.

May God bless,

Dwight