Landis Regular Lock Stitch Wax Thread Sewing Machine

[Bruce Evans]

Didn't get it done for new years but I am close. Still got to make the hand crank handle that was busted off and figure out how the thread should come out of the shuttle so it can be picked up by the needle. Other than that it is just to get all the adjustments set and then decide if I want to use the foot pedal or just bench mount it and use a electric motor, but I can hand crank it for now. Should I leave the wax pot off or put it back on? Any help, maybe picture of how the shuttle is threaded would be of great help. Here are some pictures of what it looks like now.

[Hansons Carriage]

Wow, that cleaned up good!! Nice job!! I guess I better get off my butt and get mine shined up!

[Bruce Evans]

Thanks

[gordond]

nice! job, Bruce.

I wax the polished steel on my machines....with 85% humidity here, these bits rust real fast without some form of treatment [but oil the in-contact steel components].

Have had in-contact parts nickel electroplated [bed ,needle plates- but is expensive]

I'd prefer to put the wax pot back on if it was my machine- just in case I lose it [i'm still cursing losing parts off my Singer 97]

[Bruce Evans]

Thanks,I did oil all the bare steel parts, didn't think about the nickel electroplate. Good idea, if I have to much of a rusting problem I may have to do that, as the humidity here is high also and bare metal will rust quick my knives will rust over night if I don't keep them oiled while I am working on them. If I don't mount it I will have it put up in the shop not to be gotten rid of.

[Hansons Carriage]

I use a "wipe on" clear ceramic coating that goes on very thin (.0003) for my bare metal parts. It's called "Evershield" and is here... http://www.stewartsystems.aero/products/138/evershield-2-oz-kit-55-sq-ft It's a permanent coating, but it's not great for the metal to metal contact points, as it's so fine, it doesn't promote an oil film for lubrication. I've used it for years on my woodworking tools, such as tablesaw tops, and they are slick and wont rust, nor will they transfer anything to the wood that's cut on them. I also used it on my Harley in 1999, on the polished aluminum, and haven't had to polish again. Good stuff, as long as you understand it's limitations.

[Bruce Evans]

Cool.Thanks

[Bruce Evans]

Ok I need HELP !!!!!!! set the needle and have been trying to get the thread to pick up the thread from the bobbin, it wont pick it up. what am I doing wrong? more adjustments? do I not have the shuttle threaded correctly any el or pic's would be great

Thanks

[pcox]

the first picture in post #21 shows your shuttle is not threaded right. The end of the thread is ok so far just needs to pass under the rail towards he bottm of the picture instead of up thru the opening.

[pcox]

Pull about 4 more inches of thread from the bobbin. then hold the end of the top thread but do not pull it snug just hold it turn the hand wheel clockwise a turn or 2 lower thread should come up. If not the loop former may need adjusting. I won't go into that till I know you need it.