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Bruce Evans

Landis Regular Lock Stitch Wax Thread Sewing Machine

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I use a "wipe on" clear ceramic coating that goes on very thin (.0003) for my bare metal parts. It's called "Evershield" and is here... http://www.stewartsystems.aero/products/138/evershield-2-oz-kit-55-sq-ft It's a permanent coating, but it's not great for the metal to metal contact points, as it's so fine, it doesn't promote an oil film for lubrication. I've used it for years on my woodworking tools, such as tablesaw tops, and they are slick and wont rust, nor will they transfer anything to the wood that's cut on them. I also used it on my Harley in 1999, on the polished aluminum, and haven't had to polish again. Good stuff, as long as you understand it's limitations.

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Cool.Thanks

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Ok I need HELP !!!!!!! set the needle and have been trying to get the thread to pick up the thread from the bobbin, it wont pick it up. what am I doing wrong? more adjustments? do I not have the shuttle threaded correctly any el or pic's would be great

Thanks

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the first picture in post #21 shows your shuttle is not threaded right. The end of the thread is ok so far just needs to pass under the rail towards he bottm of the picture instead of up thru the opening.

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Pull about 4 more inches of thread from the bobbin. then hold the end of the top thread but do not pull it snug just hold it turn the hand wheel clockwise a turn or 2 lower thread should come up. If not the loop former may need adjusting. I won't go into that till I know you need it.

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ok I will try this,Thanks

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Looks like your doing a great job . Any good welder can weld up cast iron , somtimes just a nickel rod will do if not clean up real good and braze it together , you would be surprised how well brazeing holds up mount the wax pot it makes the machine complete. Gary

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still not working here is a shot of how it looked like the book said to thread the shuttle and after a couple cranks it just balls up without picking up the thread.

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In the second picture I think I see the upper wrapped around the bobbin thread. It looks like someone has replaced the cushion leather in the shuttle driver there needs to be at least 3/16 to 1/4 in clearance between the ends of the shuttle and the leathers in the driver so the upper thread can pass around the d of the shuttle without resistance.

Put a narrow piece leather in the machine remove the shuttle race covers get a flash light, while slowly cranking it over watch what is happening.

Edited by pcox

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Thanks,I will check this tomorrow. I added the leather,didnt know how much to add as I didn't have the shuttle to start with.

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post-47743-0-62009200-1448545087_thumb.jpost-47743-0-75486900-1448545100_thumb.j I am going to resurect this old thread instead of starting a new one,I am finally getting back on this machine,decided to fix the base and make it a foot powered machine again.

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I've actually found that I hand crank mine about as much as anything. It's a nice machine!

John

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Bruce, have you gotten it sewing yet? I have somewhat of a love affair with the old Landis 1's. I've sewn on one for nearly 25 years, and even though I have now a number of other heavy stitchers that I use, I still come back to the 1 for some things. It has it's limitations, as ALL machines do, but overall, if set up right, they do a hell of a good job. They are very simple to troubleshoot. If you have problems getting yours to sew I can try to help. If the machine is still not picking up the bottom thread, you may need to adjust the loop former(?), not sure if that's the correct name for it, but its a little wedge shaped thing under the needle plate that holds the thread tight against the needle as it descends in order to make a loop for the shuttle to pass through. Or it might even be missing. Sometimes that little part gets worn so badly that it needs rebuilding. It's probably the first place to wear on the Landis 1's. I would take the needle plate off and inspect this part for wear before you try to adjust it, because if it's worn badly, you will end up actually adjusting it and/or the needle out into the shuttle race which is NOT a good scenario! Good luck to you.

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Are these the parts you are talking aboutpost-47743-0-10770600-1448576906_thumb.jpost-47743-0-80660400-1448576990_thumb.jpost-47743-0-21805500-1448577006_thumb.jpost-47743-0-10572000-1448577019_thumb.jpost-47743-0-18965200-1448577032_thumb.j

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Yes Bruce, that is it. It doesn't look to be worn badly from the picture. You can pull it right out of the machine once you have I disassembled to the point that you have it now. If there is a deep groove worn in that part from the needle, it should be filled back in. Read in the manual, but the needle should come up against that piece when it descends, so it holds the thread tight against the needle to make the loop on the back side for the shuttle. It is adjusted by means of a set screw on the front. You'll see where it could be pushed into the shuttle race if adjusted too far forward.

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got everything except the wax pot rebuilt,painted and put back together,it all works,now to get back on making it stitch,think my shuttle is to tight,think I put to thick of leather on the shuttle.

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wont show video,dang

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Edited by Bruce Evans

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Getting closer,got it to pick up the thread,now just to correct it skipping stitches..had all kinds of things out of adjustment,just had to start going through the book and adjust 1 thing at a time,but hey I have never got it to do this much,so I guess I am winning...took a break post-47743-0-23857400-1449446910_thumb.jpost-47743-0-59939100-1449446919_thumb.jpost-47743-0-42762500-1449446934_thumb.jand went back to look at it and found a problem with he way I have the spool set up,will fix that tomorrow..Also noticed that I had forgot to tighten the 2 adjuster screws on the wishbone shaped arm on the back,may have something to do with things not adjusting correctly.

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Oh yea another problem,How do I wind a bobbin with out that atachment they had with this machine?????

Edited by Bruce Evans

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If your talking about winding a bobbin, get a piece of dowel rod that bobbin fits good on. Put the dowel in a cordless drill and your good to go.

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this is what i need

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Edited by Bruce Evans

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I have a bobbin winder but you can chuck on end in a drill and support the other end in a small hole in the end of a table. run the thread thru a screw eye at least 3 feet away and turn on the drill. You are a blacksmith you will figure it out

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thanks Mr,Cox

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What Pcox said above about winding the bobbin, did it that way for years until I got a bobbin winder. Now I have two, but I don't want to sell either one:-) For a couple years, I worked out of a shop that had a metal turning lathe sitting unused, and that worked very well for winding the bobbins. Just chuck it in and go. And make sure your bobbin is wound tight and even; this is very important to the machine sewing consistently. Also, set your bobbin tension so that there is a pretty good pull. That makes a tighter stitch.

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Thanks for the help on the winder..Today I made a new thread holder and tray to hold needles and bobbins and other things.

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