joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 5, 2014 Want to say first to all who have given me great advice. On my 211g there is a set screw on top in the middle of the machine as you know. Turning it tightens and loosens pressure. I am use to home machines that have the little plunger which I can guage the pressure pretty easy. As this is my first BIG BOY machine, I am having trouble figuring out the pressure. It is leaving some underneath marks. I mainly do bags and such. So my leather will be 2-3-4 oz doubled for seams and the like. I back it off and the dog feet marks disappear but I still get a impression about 2mm square at the needle exit point. Has me baffled. Thx again guys and hope to contribute someday when i get more experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcox Report post Posted January 5, 2014 Run the foot pressure as light as you can without the leather lifting with the needle which will cause skipped stitches. Also match the thread/needle size to the leather your using. big blunt needle can cause marks at the exit point Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 5, 2014 Very well. Thx So far to practice I am using a 135-17 size 18 with upholstery thread. So I think its not to big. Probably to small with the leather I am testing. OIl-tanned 3-4oz Veg tanned 3-4 and a little bigger. I have ordered 69 thread and 92. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 5, 2014 Very well. Thx So far to practice I am using a 135-17 size 18 with upholstery thread. So I think its not to big. Probably to small with the leather I am testing. OIl-tanned 3-4oz Veg tanned 3-4 and a little bigger. I have ordered 69 thread and 92. You're using the wrong needle for sewing leather. Type 135x17 is for cloth, webbing and vinyl. You need type 135x16, preferably with an "S" oblong chisel point to sew leather properly. As for needle sizes, I recommend a #18 needle with #69 thread and a #20 with #92 thread. You can move both down one size (16 and 19) for a tighter stitch, but may need to increase the top tension to keep the knots buried. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 6, 2014 You're using the wrong needle for sewing leather. Type 135x17 is for cloth, webbing and vinyl. You need type 135x16, preferably with an "S" oblong chisel point to sew leather properly. As for needle sizes, I recommend a #18 needle with #69 thread and a #20 with #92 thread. You can move both down one size (16 and 19) for a tighter stitch, but may need to increase the top tension to keep the knots buried. Wizcraft, but can I use 135x16 in a 211g165 machine? My manual says to use 135x17. I am still learning this machine on what it can and can not do. thx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 6, 2014 Aside from the tip of the needle, they are the same. A leather needle cuts a hole in the leather, much like an awl used in hand sewing. The 135x16 is made for your machine as well as the 135x17, Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted January 6, 2014 Thx Guys Will order some today. Was on Schemetz site last night and read the great pdf article on leather needle types and hole patterns. That is a must for newbies. Maybe I will post a thread with just that on it for knowledge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
