Members Countryboy976 Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 Well, I've never posted any of my work on here or anything else really. I look thru all the topics almost daily trying to absorb as much of the knowledge on here as I can to improve my skills. I want to thank all of you who freely give of your knowledge and experience here so that newbies such as myself can gain from it. I think I've got enough of the basics down now as to be willing to post some of my work. I welcome any constructive criticism anyone has to offer. It's the best way to learn where I need improvement. Thank you all in advance! Quote
Members Solofalcon Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 Well you could have fooled me. You sure don't seem like a newbie. You do very nice work. Keep absorbing knowledge, it's obviously paying off. I could use some more absorbing myself. Welcome!! Quote
Members Countryboy976 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 Thank you solo, I've been told that I've always been artistic and a fast learner but there is sooooo much to learn with leather to get a good durable and quality finish. There has been a lot of trial and error. Especially with dyes, finishers and such. I love the ease of eco-flo water dyes and the colors variety you can get but I now know they don't penetrate and are a bear seal. No matter how long they dry and how much you buff. Sponge a sealant over them and they come up and smear. Ruined a few things that way till I figured out that you could air brush sealant on them. Like I said, trial and error. Quote
Members tomt Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 erevy thihg that I looks veary good keep up the good work Quote
Members Solofalcon Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 You caught my attention with the word airbrush. I swear by an airbrush, but not for the finish. I have tried using the Eco Flo stuff and it's nice but I have gotten used to the Fiebings oil dyes over the years. With the exception of using a paintbrush for black in backgrounder areas, I dye all of my projects with oil dyes through an airbrush. The dye dries almost instantly after it hits the leather, and you get so much control with shading and tones. Lately I have been playing with different resist methods to block out certain areas from getting dyed with lacquers and I just started using a liquid latex frisket mask that I paint on before any dying and after the dye has been applied, you just rub your finger on the mask and it rolls right up easily without leaving any residue and the leather remains untouched. I also love using Gel Antique, and paste Antique stains to create a really nice look. Good luck and have fun. Kevin Quote
Members Murray Posted January 15, 2014 Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 your use of color and grasp on shading is FANTASTIC! If I may, though, I have but a single criticism... again, the color on the oak leaves is incredible, but I think they could use a bit more texture (decorative cuts, veiner, camo, pear). Just my 2 cents. Again, color is amazing. Quote
Members Countryboy976 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 Thank you Murray. That's the kind of feed back I'm looking for. I'll make a not of it for my next project. Keep em coming folks! Lol Quote
Members r lenna Posted January 15, 2014 Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 I think the color is great. I have a question, how long do you let the dye dry? I don't use any eco-flow stuff. I like the Fiebings stuff myself. With the Fiebings oil dyes and the pro oil dyes you will get beter penetration. Make sure the leather is dry then I oil before I dye then dye. Then you need to give the dye a full day to dry. Inside in winter maybe more. That might help things. Some times it helps to buff the area with a rag to get off any loose stuff. I think that you're doing a fantastic job with what I see here. Rob Quote
Members Countryboy976 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 I let them dry a full day or better. I like the feibings as well but I never seem to get the bight color variation and shading i like as well as the eco-flows do. I use them mostly for solid colors or two tones but your right. They do penetrate much better. As for oiling, I haven't gotten that down very well. I think I use to much. Makes my leather dark and when I dye. It's not as vibrant a color. Any tips on oiling? Quote
Members Thelovingheritage Posted January 15, 2014 Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 I'm a newbie myself but I thought I should chime in on the holster your stitch spacing seems a little off at the bottom compared to the sides do you have an over stitch wheel? I have no room to talk I'm still learning too my stitching is awful. Quote
Members Countryboy976 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Members Report Posted January 15, 2014 I have an over stitch wheel now yes. At the time I made that holster I was using an awl and just stabbing "best guess" the distance between holes. I got impatient and wanted to see it done. Lol Quote
electrathon Posted January 15, 2014 Report Posted January 15, 2014 The two things I see. On your hand stitching you are rotating which thread is on the top of the stich and it is making your stitches inconsistent. Always put the same thread to the same side with each stitch. Second, on your long curved cut lines. Try to find an edge guide and pull your knife along the guide. Your lines will "wander" less that way. Aaron Quote
Members Countryboy976 Posted January 16, 2014 Author Members Report Posted January 16, 2014 Awesome input, thanks elec Quote
Members r lenna Posted January 17, 2014 Members Report Posted January 17, 2014 About the oil, I have had second thoughts. Oil would keep a water based dye from working at all. I gave you some bad advice on that one. Sorry about that. Rob Quote
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