Slim, Minimalistic Wallet Help

[OurJud]

Hi, everyone.

Brand new to leather craft.

My current leather project, and only my second so far, is the design and manufacture of a slim, minimalist wallet, but I'm struggling with thickness issues.

The 2mm cowhide stuff I used for my first project (notebook cover) is fine as the outer shell of the wallet, but when I start doubling this up to create the card and cash slots, things start to get too bulky.

I've been looking at some leather from my seller on ebay, listed at 1mm and under, but being new to leather craft I'm struggling to visualise what this looks like and what it can be used for. Is this stuff simply the skin of the leather, or does it have some flesh and stability which would stand up to usage as a wallet?

Basically, what I need is some leather that when doubled up to create cash and card slots, would be thin enough to machine sew (my mother's basic, every day sewing machine gets through the 2mm cowhide OK) and yet be strong and durable enough to be used as a wallet.

As for why I'm not hand stitching, it's because I don't have the funds to buy the materials (hole marker, saddle stitch / hole puncher, thread)

I suppose this first effort will be a prototype and probably not withstand much abuse, but I would still appreciate the advice.

Thanks in advance.

Edited February 23, 2014 by OurJud

[WScott]

IMHO, you will have a B of a time stitching without a walking foot and risk wrecking your leather or the machine

You don't have to spend a fortune to hand sew and it is really fun

Use an old fork to mark the spacing, or maybe your mom has a marking wheel for sewing

A round scratch awl, one for woodworking, is pretty cheap as well and works great

Waxed thread and a glover's or harness needle and you are off.

If you really strapped and need some tools, send me a PM and I will try to help you out

Scott

[OurJud]

Thank you so much, Scott, I'm genuinely touched by your offer.

The fork idea is brilliant (I have one of those ). As for the other tools, I'm sure I can muster most of them from somewhere.

I was looking at some artificial sinew on amazon, but it was silly priced and I think too thick and 'rustic' anyway.

As I say in my OP I'm going for a clean, minimalistic look with the wallet, so would like to ask what kind of thread do I need to be looking at in terms of strength and durability, while keeping it realtively thin?

Also, any advice on the thickness of the leather for such a project is still welcome.

Thanks again, Scott

Edited February 23, 2014 by OurJud

[JoeSnuffie]

For wallets I've started using 1.75oz for thinner wallets and 2.5oz for the thicker ones. I hand stitch everything and it's pretty cheap to do so. you can get a roll of the 3 stranded waxed Tandy thread at many craft shops for just a few dollars and some size 2 needles (if they're not specifically for leather make sure you round off the sharp tips on some fine sandpaper). Once you're ready to spend some more money you can get some 1mm and .8mm braided thread. I think it looks much nicer and is easier for me stitch with but that's just a personal preference.

For cheap tools, I've made a couple edge bevelers from cheap stainless knives. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53775

The first wallet is 1.75oz goat and the second is 2.5oz calf skin

[OurJud]

Thanks, Joe.

Thing is, I'm in the UK so no Tandy stores - at least not within a distance I'm willing to travel. In fact I have nothing nearby for this kind of stuff. More to the point, though, the oz of a leather doesn't really mean anything to me as we tend to go by mm in this country. Anyway, I've found a conversion chart and 1.75oz measures in at just under 1mm - does that sound about right?

At least I now know I can use leather under 1mm for my project.

Thanks very much, and your wallets are lovely.

[JoeSnuffie]

My 2.5 oz comes in at about 1mm and the 1.75oz is coming in between .66 - .75mm depending on where I measure. Because it's goat it has a much tighter flesh side and just seems a lot thinner than it really is when compared to cow. I wish the US would adopt the metric system and make my measuring a lot easier.

And thank you for the compliment, I really appreciate it.

[WScott]

I think Joe has you headed in the correct direction

If you haven't already, take a look at this video. The gent is on your side of the Atlantic and knows a thing or two about leather work!

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44874

My other thought for UK sourced supplies was Etsy.com

A shop there has top of the line Tiger thread available and harness needles. I have ordered from this gent and he is awesome as well!

0.8mm for smaller looking stitches on delicate leather, 1.0 for bigger stitch pattern on thicker leather. Get one of both see what works for you

https://www.etsy.com/listing/174952548/john-james-002-saddlers-harness-needles?ref=listing-shop-header-0

https://www.etsy.com/listing/120961806/tiger-thread-for-leatherwork-20m?ref=related-0

Hope that helps, let me know

Scott

[OurJud]

Thanks, Scott.

Funnily enough I've just watched a 90 minute video over on youtube all about stitiching and the preperation thereof, by a guy called Ian Atkinson. It was fascinating and he too reccommended the Tiger thread.

I think the 0.8mm stuff would be perfect for my minimalist wallet, and it's not too expensive either.

Ha! Just noticed the owner of that etsy shop is Ian Atkinson!

I think I can get hold of most of the stuff when I get a bit of spare cash, but one thing I'd need, ideally, and don't have the money for, is one of those stitching ponies. I've been trying to think how else I might securely hold my item without one, but haven't come up with anything as of yet.

Edited February 24, 2014 by OurJud

[Flattracker]

Hi OurJud,

Where are you in the UK? I get tools and leather from a few different places, are you London based?

Cheers

Rich

[OurJud]

Hi, Rich

I'm in a town about 6 miles outside Manchester CC. It's about a 30 min bus ride into Manchester, but I don't know of anywhere specific.

As I say, this is all new to me.