Slim, Minimalistic Wallet Help

[OurJud]

Hi, everyone.

Brand new to leather craft.

My current leather project, and only my second so far, is the design and manufacture of a slim, minimalist wallet, but I'm struggling with thickness issues.

The 2mm cowhide stuff I used for my first project (notebook cover) is fine as the outer shell of the wallet, but when I start doubling this up to create the card and cash slots, things start to get too bulky.

I've been looking at some leather from my seller on ebay, listed at 1mm and under, but being new to leather craft I'm struggling to visualise what this looks like and what it can be used for. Is this stuff simply the skin of the leather, or does it have some flesh and stability which would stand up to usage as a wallet?

Basically, what I need is some leather that when doubled up to create cash and card slots, would be thin enough to machine sew (my mother's basic, every day sewing machine gets through the 2mm cowhide OK) and yet be strong and durable enough to be used as a wallet.

As for why I'm not hand stitching, it's because I don't have the funds to buy the materials (hole marker, saddle stitch / hole puncher, thread)

I suppose this first effort will be a prototype and probably not withstand much abuse, but I would still appreciate the advice.

Thanks in advance.

Edited February 23, 2014 by OurJud

[WScott]

IMHO, you will have a B of a time stitching without a walking foot and risk wrecking your leather or the machine

You don't have to spend a fortune to hand sew and it is really fun

Use an old fork to mark the spacing, or maybe your mom has a marking wheel for sewing

A round scratch awl, one for woodworking, is pretty cheap as well and works great

Waxed thread and a glover's or harness needle and you are off.

If you really strapped and need some tools, send me a PM and I will try to help you out

Scott

[OurJud]

Thank you so much, Scott, I'm genuinely touched by your offer.

The fork idea is brilliant (I have one of those ). As for the other tools, I'm sure I can muster most of them from somewhere.

I was looking at some artificial sinew on amazon, but it was silly priced and I think too thick and 'rustic' anyway.

As I say in my OP I'm going for a clean, minimalistic look with the wallet, so would like to ask what kind of thread do I need to be looking at in terms of strength and durability, while keeping it realtively thin?

Also, any advice on the thickness of the leather for such a project is still welcome.

Thanks again, Scott

Edited February 23, 2014 by OurJud

[JoeSnuffie]

For wallets I've started using 1.75oz for thinner wallets and 2.5oz for the thicker ones. I hand stitch everything and it's pretty cheap to do so. you can get a roll of the 3 stranded waxed Tandy thread at many craft shops for just a few dollars and some size 2 needles (if they're not specifically for leather make sure you round off the sharp tips on some fine sandpaper). Once you're ready to spend some more money you can get some 1mm and .8mm braided thread. I think it looks much nicer and is easier for me stitch with but that's just a personal preference.

For cheap tools, I've made a couple edge bevelers from cheap stainless knives. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53775

The first wallet is 1.75oz goat and the second is 2.5oz calf skin

[OurJud]

Thanks, Joe.

Thing is, I'm in the UK so no Tandy stores - at least not within a distance I'm willing to travel. In fact I have nothing nearby for this kind of stuff. More to the point, though, the oz of a leather doesn't really mean anything to me as we tend to go by mm in this country. Anyway, I've found a conversion chart and 1.75oz measures in at just under 1mm - does that sound about right?

At least I now know I can use leather under 1mm for my project.

Thanks very much, and your wallets are lovely.

[JoeSnuffie]

My 2.5 oz comes in at about 1mm and the 1.75oz is coming in between .66 - .75mm depending on where I measure. Because it's goat it has a much tighter flesh side and just seems a lot thinner than it really is when compared to cow. I wish the US would adopt the metric system and make my measuring a lot easier.

And thank you for the compliment, I really appreciate it.

[WScott]

I think Joe has you headed in the correct direction

If you haven't already, take a look at this video. The gent is on your side of the Atlantic and knows a thing or two about leather work!

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44874

My other thought for UK sourced supplies was Etsy.com

A shop there has top of the line Tiger thread available and harness needles. I have ordered from this gent and he is awesome as well!

0.8mm for smaller looking stitches on delicate leather, 1.0 for bigger stitch pattern on thicker leather. Get one of both see what works for you

https://www.etsy.com/listing/174952548/john-james-002-saddlers-harness-needles?ref=listing-shop-header-0

https://www.etsy.com/listing/120961806/tiger-thread-for-leatherwork-20m?ref=related-0

Hope that helps, let me know

Scott

[OurJud]

Thanks, Scott.

Funnily enough I've just watched a 90 minute video over on youtube all about stitiching and the preperation thereof, by a guy called Ian Atkinson. It was fascinating and he too reccommended the Tiger thread.

I think the 0.8mm stuff would be perfect for my minimalist wallet, and it's not too expensive either.

Ha! Just noticed the owner of that etsy shop is Ian Atkinson!

I think I can get hold of most of the stuff when I get a bit of spare cash, but one thing I'd need, ideally, and don't have the money for, is one of those stitching ponies. I've been trying to think how else I might securely hold my item without one, but haven't come up with anything as of yet.

Edited February 24, 2014 by OurJud

[Flattracker]

Hi OurJud,

Where are you in the UK? I get tools and leather from a few different places, are you London based?

Cheers

Rich

[OurJud]

Hi, Rich

I'm in a town about 6 miles outside Manchester CC. It's about a 30 min bus ride into Manchester, but I don't know of anywhere specific.

As I say, this is all new to me.

[Flattracker]

Ok,

So they all deliver which is fine for tools and thread/needles etc but for choosing leather I'd say you really need to go see it, feel it, and choose it on your individual hide basis so you get the best for your project(s).

Google is your friend, as they say;

For leathers & tools;

A A Crack & Sons

JT Batchelor

Le Prevo

Abbey England

& finally Tandy

But there are loads others dealing in other specialism's depending on what you want or need at varying prices, like anything and based on numbers ordered.

Good luck buddy

[OurJud]

Thanks again, Rich. I must say you've all been very helpful and made me feel very welcome - rare for forums these days.

This wallet is my second project, my first being some notebook covers which amazingly I managed to sell all of on etsy. I only made half a dozen as I didn't really expect to sell them, but there you go. I probably underpriced them grossly as I certainly didn't make any money from them (at least not that my bank balance noticed).

That was a frightingly simple process to be honest - just a sheet of 2mm cowhide (bought 'ready to go' on ebay) that I cut to size, folded in half and threaded some elastic cord down the inside of the spine for the inserts. I didn't even finish / burnish the edges or bother lining the inside.

This wallet, though, is proving to be a much bigger ache. I'm trying to come up with a modern, innotive and unique design, and have dozens of cardboard prototypes lying around the house, but I'm quickly discovering that when it comes to front pocket, minimalist card/cash wallets, there are only so many ways you can do it. It's also the first time I've ever done anything that requires stitching. However, it is making me appreciate why handmade goods are priced so highly.

Unfortunatley, I'm one of those people who when I decide to try my hand at something, I want perfect results first time. I also want all the tools at my disposal without having to buy them. Too easy a life, maybe?

I just have to be patient, buy what I can when I can, and try to resist making this until I'm fully equipped.

[edit] See, no patience. After posting this I headed over to etsy and bought some of that 0.8 Tiger thread and a pack of the John James needles. Now I'm brassic!

Edited February 25, 2014 by OurJud

[WScott]

Sorry to feed the leather addiction, it gets worse and worse.

At least you didn't waste your money on warm beer and tarts in the pub

Glad to see some locals help you out on supply suggestions

[OurJud]

Sorry to feed the leather addiction, it gets worse and worse.

Yes, I blame you for that last purchase

I wonder if I can sneek another quick question in while I'm here. In the video on saddle stitching I talked about in an earlier post, he uses a diamond awl for making the holes. The thing is, I want to keep away from this traditional, native American syle look in favour of a more modern and sleek style. What would I use to make the holes so that I get a straighter, smaller and less obvious stitch rather than the traditional diagonal of the saddle stitch?

Edited February 25, 2014 by OurJud

[WScott]

If you use a round scratch awl or fid, the holes will allow the thread to be straighter.

I would test it out on a small sample patch of leather before you try it on your wallet.

[OurJud]

Thanks.

I'm off to look at the prices of fids. then.

[WScott]

Ok, don't shoot me, but these guys have good mid range quality and priced tools.

I have dealt with them and find the tools better than entry level Tandy stuff.

http://www.goodsjapa...s/catId=4252437

OR, for a small round awl or fid I would look at a used woodworking tool, antique, second hand or hardware store in your town and sharpen and clean up an old one.

To do your hand stitching, make an even stitch line on the leather with a caliper and then use the fork to mark even hole locations and punch the fid through the leather by tapping with a wood mallet with the leather resting on a protective material like a poundo board.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3461-151.aspx

Just don't go too deep so you keep the holes just big enough to close around the thread after stitching and you don't bend the awl tip.

If you are a bit resourceful you can find inexpensive alternate tools and equipment

Edited February 25, 2014 by WScott

[OurJud]

Thanks. As it stands my wallet will consist of four layers, using leather at 1mm or under, and even then some of the stitching will only be going through two layers, so I should be able to get holes without going too deep with the awl as you suggest against.

[JoeSnuffie]

1mm is good for what I call a 'substantial' wallet feel but not quite as hefty as a biker wallet. With the right leather, it can be soft and luxurious. I'm using 1mm calf skin and it oils and waxes to a very soft and flexible texture. The thicker wallet in the pics I shared is made from this. It's not any thicker than my last store bought wallet that was made from .5mm leather because it is a simpler design with fewer pockets and no cloth lining. My personal preference, however, is the thinner goat leather.

You'll need to practice a lot. I have a stack of failures that my boys are just thrilled to use and show off to their friends. As you practice, take careful notes on what works and what doesn't. I have stitched things together and then unstitched, adjust and repeated many times. I take a lot of pictures of the pieces under a clear ruled grid for reference. I also started using a free CAD application called LibreCAD to save my successful patterns which is much better than the paper patterns I've drawn.

[OurJud]

0.5mm leather?? I didn't even know it came that thin! That stuff must be like bible paper.

In my just-posted other thread I ask about folding edges, but am now wondering if it's even going to be possible with 1mm leather.

When it comes to making my chosen item I have the patience of a saint and will spend hours on end doing it. What I don't have the patience for, however, is the learning process. I want my items to be perfect first time.

[lightningad]

Hey Jud, im also in a small town 6-7 miles outside Manchester! Wonder if its the same one?

I get my thread from LePrevo - its pretty cheap linen thread but it does the job.

Ian Atkinson who's videos you mentioned is also Leodis Leather who sells Tiger thread on Etsy.

Its worth getting some to try out, and Ian is certainly the most cost effective way to try it, as the thread is usually only sold on bi reels costing close to £30 a go!

You can get a really cheap diamond awl blade and handle from Le Prevo (mines from there) and as long as you spend some time sharpening it first, it should be perfect for making your holes. It also looks much better than the round holes a woodwork awl will make.

As for buying leather - we're out of luck in this part of England…the nearest is J Woods Leather in Silsden, nr Keighley. You can go and look through the offcuts pile if you want a bargain, or via mail order. Le Prevo have been quite helpful - although the time it takes them to process orders seems very slow. I have also bought some lovely veg tan from Rolfords (Northampton). The biggest problem with mail order is not seeing before you buy…and the only way around that is a long journey!

rgds

Adam

[OurJud]

Hi, Adam.

As you say we pretty much have to rely on mail order shopping for our leather goods in our neck of the woods, but I can live with that. I buy my leather from a guy on ebay and to the uninitiated it seems to be fairly good stuff for the price. I'm sure a leathersmith with 40 years experience under his belt would tell me it was crap quality, but it's about all I can afford so it has to do. As for the Tiger thread, I ordered some of it along with a pack of John James needles from Ian's etsy shop yesterday, so that's another item I can tick off the shopping list.

As I say in another post, I'm reluctant to use a diamond awl as I want to avoid that traditional diagonal stitch for a straighter, less obvious stitch line.

[JoeSnuffie]

The 1mm skives just fine so you can roll the enges over no problem. The .5mm is goat and it comes pretty thin. Also, you're correct about it being a book binding leather. I like it because the grain is much more like cow than the pig skin, though it does have a more pronounced grain than cow.

[WScott]

I have been thinking about the stitching pony you mentioned.

You might try some large paper clamps....we call them bulldog clamps from office supply store

I use them as gluing clamps after I apply thin pigskin to the jaws to avoid marring the workpiece

I will post a pic when I get to my laptop later

On another tact, if you have any woodworking skill, a pony is easily made from pallet or construction lumber

Edited February 26, 2014 by WScott

[RavenAus]

You don't need a stitching pony, I've been making things for over 10 years and never used one. As for UK suppliers, thy googling 'Le Prevo' and 'The Identity Store'. I can heartily recommend The Identity Store, they are in Matlock and have some great people, very helpful.