Members Flattracker Posted February 24, 2014 Members Report Posted February 24, 2014 Ok, So they all deliver which is fine for tools and thread/needles etc but for choosing leather I'd say you really need to go see it, feel it, and choose it on your individual hide basis so you get the best for your project(s). Google is your friend, as they say; For leathers & tools; A A Crack & Sons JT Batchelor Le Prevo Abbey England & finally Tandy But there are loads others dealing in other specialism's depending on what you want or need at varying prices, like anything and based on numbers ordered. Good luck buddy Quote
Members OurJud Posted February 25, 2014 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Thanks again, Rich. I must say you've all been very helpful and made me feel very welcome - rare for forums these days. This wallet is my second project, my first being some notebook covers which amazingly I managed to sell all of on etsy. I only made half a dozen as I didn't really expect to sell them, but there you go. I probably underpriced them grossly as I certainly didn't make any money from them (at least not that my bank balance noticed). That was a frightingly simple process to be honest - just a sheet of 2mm cowhide (bought 'ready to go' on ebay) that I cut to size, folded in half and threaded some elastic cord down the inside of the spine for the inserts. I didn't even finish / burnish the edges or bother lining the inside. This wallet, though, is proving to be a much bigger ache. I'm trying to come up with a modern, innotive and unique design, and have dozens of cardboard prototypes lying around the house, but I'm quickly discovering that when it comes to front pocket, minimalist card/cash wallets, there are only so many ways you can do it. It's also the first time I've ever done anything that requires stitching. However, it is making me appreciate why handmade goods are priced so highly. Unfortunatley, I'm one of those people who when I decide to try my hand at something, I want perfect results first time. I also want all the tools at my disposal without having to buy them. Too easy a life, maybe? I just have to be patient, buy what I can when I can, and try to resist making this until I'm fully equipped. [edit] See, no patience. After posting this I headed over to etsy and bought some of that 0.8 Tiger thread and a pack of the John James needles. Now I'm brassic! Edited February 25, 2014 by OurJud Quote
Members WScott Posted February 25, 2014 Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 Sorry to feed the leather addiction, it gets worse and worse. At least you didn't waste your money on warm beer and tarts in the pub Glad to see some locals help you out on supply suggestions Quote
Members OurJud Posted February 25, 2014 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Sorry to feed the leather addiction, it gets worse and worse. Yes, I blame you for that last purchase I wonder if I can sneek another quick question in while I'm here. In the video on saddle stitching I talked about in an earlier post, he uses a diamond awl for making the holes. The thing is, I want to keep away from this traditional, native American syle look in favour of a more modern and sleek style. What would I use to make the holes so that I get a straighter, smaller and less obvious stitch rather than the traditional diagonal of the saddle stitch? Edited February 25, 2014 by OurJud Quote
Members WScott Posted February 25, 2014 Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 If you use a round scratch awl or fid, the holes will allow the thread to be straighter. I would test it out on a small sample patch of leather before you try it on your wallet. Quote
Members OurJud Posted February 25, 2014 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks. I'm off to look at the prices of fids. then. Quote
Members WScott Posted February 25, 2014 Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Ok, don't shoot me, but these guys have good mid range quality and priced tools. I have dealt with them and find the tools better than entry level Tandy stuff. http://www.goodsjapa...s/catId=4252437 OR, for a small round awl or fid I would look at a used woodworking tool, antique, second hand or hardware store in your town and sharpen and clean up an old one. To do your hand stitching, make an even stitch line on the leather with a caliper and then use the fork to mark even hole locations and punch the fid through the leather by tapping with a wood mallet with the leather resting on a protective material like a poundo board. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3461-151.aspx Just don't go too deep so you keep the holes just big enough to close around the thread after stitching and you don't bend the awl tip. If you are a bit resourceful you can find inexpensive alternate tools and equipment Edited February 25, 2014 by WScott Quote
Members OurJud Posted February 25, 2014 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks. As it stands my wallet will consist of four layers, using leather at 1mm or under, and even then some of the stitching will only be going through two layers, so I should be able to get holes without going too deep with the awl as you suggest against. Quote
Members JoeSnuffie Posted February 25, 2014 Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 1mm is good for what I call a 'substantial' wallet feel but not quite as hefty as a biker wallet. With the right leather, it can be soft and luxurious. I'm using 1mm calf skin and it oils and waxes to a very soft and flexible texture. The thicker wallet in the pics I shared is made from this. It's not any thicker than my last store bought wallet that was made from .5mm leather because it is a simpler design with fewer pockets and no cloth lining. My personal preference, however, is the thinner goat leather. You'll need to practice a lot. I have a stack of failures that my boys are just thrilled to use and show off to their friends. As you practice, take careful notes on what works and what doesn't. I have stitched things together and then unstitched, adjust and repeated many times. I take a lot of pictures of the pieces under a clear ruled grid for reference. I also started using a free CAD application called LibreCAD to save my successful patterns which is much better than the paper patterns I've drawn. Quote
Members OurJud Posted February 25, 2014 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2014 0.5mm leather?? I didn't even know it came that thin! That stuff must be like bible paper. In my just-posted other thread I ask about folding edges, but am now wondering if it's even going to be possible with 1mm leather. When it comes to making my chosen item I have the patience of a saint and will spend hours on end doing it. What I don't have the patience for, however, is the learning process. I want my items to be perfect first time. Quote
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