Leather Splitter?

[J Hayes]

I have been researching skiver/splitters for awhile and educating myself in the process. There are several out there and since I wanted one that would both skive and split, which allowed me to narrow the field some what. My next consideration was a comparison of the blades of the several models which I could only do by careful examination of the photos available on the web. The Osborne 84 design and knock-off's of the same narrowed my search down to one. Used splitters were not considered due to the potential of blade damage from improper sharpening. The Campbell-Randall unit looked very good but was not in stock for at least six weeks. I finally settled on the Heritage skiver sold by Weaver Leather and ordered one yesterday.

What separated the Osborne 84 and clones from the others was simple the blade and the angle of the edge. The angle runs the entire width of the blade as opposed to half the width like the other tools. In my view this allows for a sharper and better cutting blade much like comparing the edge of an axe to a chefs knife. The proof, of course, will be in the testing once the tool arrives.

Please keep us posted. I've been eyeing a new one myself.....

[Sovran81]

I researched for months before getting a splitter. I wanted a Chase that was refurbished by Bruce but availability and price never coincided. Second best was the Campbell-Randall Keystone splitter. I chose this over Osborne because the CR blade is solid tool steel. Osborne blades are an inlay of a hard and soft steel. I keep the blade sharp with a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge. I would have never made it into the soft steel, But why chance or worry about. The blades are too expensive not to be able to resharpen when needed.

3" wide is about as much as you can pull through it without distorting the leather.

[J Hayes]

I researched for months before getting a splitter. I wanted a Chase that was refurbished by Bruce but availability and price never coincided. Second best was the Campbell-Randall Keystone splitter. I chose this over Osborne because the CR blade is solid tool steel. Osborne blades are an inlay of a hard and soft steel. I keep the blade sharp with a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge. I would have never made it into the soft steel, But why chance or worry about. The blades are too expensive not to be able to resharpen when needed.

3" wide is about as much as you can pull through it without distorting the leather.

Is the CR blade gound all the way back? Approximate angle?

Thanks

Jeremy

[Sovran81]

Is the CR blade gound all the way back? Approximate angle?

Thanks

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy. Here is the link with a good pic of it. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=splitter&product_id=13842 Grinding it all the way back would weaken it and allow for flex in the middle I would think. To be honest, I have no idea what angle the blade is. CR has a rep with leather tools I have no problem trusting. Oh, the 3" width I quoted is without the splitter bolted down. I mostly use it for braiding strands but have run lots of belts and harness through it also

[deloid]

As I was searching for comments on replacement steel for an Osborne 84 I ran into this thread. I figured I would add a couple of comments for the sake of education (or argument) .

#1 There is little to no value in having the blade grind go all the way up as with the Weaver (in my opinion). The stiffness of the 3/8" thick spine of the old Osborne blade is important and this is diminished with the greater grind. Additionally, the cutting action takes place in a very small part of the blade though it is wise to keep the entire beveled section polished. This blades action is not like that of a Chefs knife. No offense meant with a direct contradiction.

#2 While I cannot dispute the possibility that there is a softer steel welded within the carbon steel I see no reason for this on this kind of blade. I'm probably going to use O1 tool steel to replace my blade. Almost considered regular old 1084 or 1095 but the O1 will wear better.

Dean

[J Hayes]

The reason for the long grind is to get the cutting angle low, 15 degrees in the case of my weaver. Blade is 1.86" along the bottom flat and .5" thick on the spine. Shorter grind equals steeper angle and a steeper angle makes for a harder pull. I notice this a lot with a few of my old round knives, a small Rose that has a hefty shoulder is more difficult to push than a small Gomph that has a fine thin taper, that one cuts like butter. Both knives are very sharp, just that thicker blade on the Rose has to push more material aside to make the cut.

The bimetal blades were probably made for cost savings way back when, not sure if there's a good reason in current times for a bimetal splitter blade other than sharpening might be a touch easier by only have 3/8"-1/2" of hard steel to grind. Bimetal splitter blades have the leading edge as tool steel, not really "within" just leading the way.

Just my views

Jeremy

Edited September 12, 2014 by J Hayes

[deloid]

Hi Jeremy,

I agree that 15 degrees would be a pleasure to cut with but theoretically it shouldn't stay sharp as long as a 22 degree edge or a grind with a secondary bevel. It seems like you are pleased with the Weaver blade. It must be a durable steel. Is it harder to resharpen like most long wearing steels?

You wrote "bimetal splitter blade other than sharpening might be a touch easier". I would have to argue with this point. The purpose of having mild steel such as wrought as a core was twofold. One was cost savings, the other was resilience. With differential heat treating or purposeful quenching this isn't really necessary anymore (arguable). The edge though is only supposed to be carbon steel (hard steel)so sharpening shouldn't be any easier.

Incidentally, though I'm sure you already know this, the Weaver at 1/2 inch is thicker than the Osborne at 3/8 inch at the spine. This is also helpful to consider (in favor of a Weaver blade).

Dean

[J Hayes]

The bimetal splitter blade isn't wrapped, just a hard piece fused to the leading edge. You're probably right in it not being any easier to sharpen, just the rear 3/4 of the blade will grind easier than the front hardened portion. So far I'm very pleased with the Weaver, good hard steel. The Osborne I had was about 17degrees.

Edited September 12, 2014 by J Hayes

[deloid]

I'm glad this came up Jeremy. It's nice to hear from someone who has handled the Osborne and Weaver. Since I will be grinding a new profile from O1 steel I might as well use a thicker piece and try the Weaver grind on my Osborne frame.

Dean

[bruce johnson]

Dean,

I got your phone message and came at a good time. I needed a new blade for one I have and had ordered an Osborne replacement yesterday. Hopefully this will go directly onto the old frames but nothing Osborne does surprises me. I will give a feedback on the new Osborne blades once I get it, sharpen, and test it. They are supposed to have a bimetal blade but shorter section of the hardened steel than the old ones. We'll see.