Resolene And Water

[chevvy64]

Hey all,

I have poured over the forums looking for related information, but have found nothing, so hoping for a little help.

I have never used Resolene as my finish, but those who use it seem to swear by it, so I decided to give it a try out of curiosity. I figured it was always good to have other options available, and so I ordered some. I read posts on the dilution, and application methods; and have followed the advise whilst trying it out.

The problem I'm having is that there seems to be no water resistance at all, no beading, it just goes into the leather. I have applied by brush, sponge, and airbrush; all with the same results. I have left some test pieces overnight after 2 or 3 coats, and others I have left for a week, but it makes no difference; there is no repellency at all.

I know it is useless if it has frozen, but I have no way of knowing if it was at any point before it got to me. I also have no idea what the result of it being frozen would be? Would the mixture separate at all, or would it just lose its water resistance?

Anyone ever encountered this, or have any advise?

Many thanks

[marine mp]

Chevvy64, I regularly use resolene as my final finish. I dilute it w/water to 50/50. It is water-reisitant but is not in any way waterproof. It seals and protects. I've never had any complaints from customers and it does give a superb finish. Semper-fi Mike

[chevvy64]

Hey marine, and thanks.

I didn't expect it to be waterproof, nothing is; but I was expecting some sort of water resistance.

I have split it 50/50 as per all the posts I read regarding application. 2/3 light coats; left overnight on some pieces, and a few days on others (as the overnight pieces showed no repellency).

I assumed it would bead, at least initially; but there is nothing. It is only marginally better than no finish at all, surely that can't be right?

[Spartan]

I use resolene to seal most of my stuff (cut 50/50).. for motorcycle seats I will usually use clear boot polish or snow seal to waterproof them after resolene. My two cents but it works for me

[jackd942]

I use resolene to seal most of my stuff (cut 50/50).. for motorcycle seats I will usually use clear boot polish or snow seal to waterproof them after resolene. My two cents but it works for me

Same here...I always use clear polish after as a top coat.

[chevvy64]

Hey Spartan and jackd942, thanks for your replies.

So you are not actually using it as a stand alone finish, but more of a seal, which I assume is just to stop colour transfer?

I would be interested to hear from anyone who does use it as a finish on it's own, it does say it provides a water resistant finish.

[paprhangr]

Hmm.....Will the snow seal have a place to go if blocked by resolene?

I thought about putting the snow seal on first, after soaked into the leather then resolene

Wonder if anyone has tried

[chevvy64]

Hmm.....Will the snow seal have a place to go if blocked by resolene?

I thought about putting the snow seal on first, after soaked into the leather then resolene

Wonder if anyone has tried

I doubt anything would go through the resolene as it is an acrylic finish, so you would need to feed/condition your leather prior to application. I doubt the resolene would be able to adhere to the leather surface once any wax is used, so Sno-seal would be the same.

Edited March 5, 2014 by chevvy64

[Chief31794]

For a good water repellent finsih, I use Feibing's Aussie. It is beeswax based and does a good job. I use it on Rifle Slings and anything that will be used primarily outdoors. I put it on liberally, heat it with a hair dryer until it starts to liquify and then wipe off the excess.

Chief

[jackd942]

I mainly make holsters, so I'm more worried about color transfer than waterproofing. After wet molding and drying, I apply oil and let dry thoroughly. Then comes resolene/water and more dry time. Finally I warm up the holster and work neutral polish in with my finger. I warm it up again with a hair dryer and then buff. That gives it a nice soft luster and the polish gets into all the nooks and crannies. These days I use mop n glo with water more than resolene, but it's the same procedure. I would say that my holsters are water resistant, but not water proof. I'm sure a nice wax and buff would work great as well instead of the polish.

[SteelcityK9Cop]

Everyone has their own "formula"... try some different things and see what works best for you. Here is my "procedure":

1) Oil with Neetsfoot

2) Dye then buff

3) Resolene 50/50 with water

4) Fiebings Leather Sheen then buff

[chevvy64]

For a good water repellent finsih, I use Feibing's Aussie. It is beeswax based and does a good job. I use it on Rifle Slings and anything that will be used primarily outdoors. I put it on liberally, heat it with a hair dryer until it starts to liquify and then wipe off the excess.

Chief

I have used it myself, in the same way yo do; and sometimes still do; no complaints using it at all.

I mainly make holsters, so I'm more worried about color transfer than waterproofing. After wet molding and drying, I apply oil and let dry thoroughly. Then comes resolene/water and more dry time. Finally I warm up the holster and work neutral polish in with my finger. I warm it up again with a hair dryer and then buff. That gives it a nice soft luster and the polish gets into all the nooks and crannies. These days I use mop n glo with water more than resolene, but it's the same procedure. I would say that my holsters are water resistant, but not water proof. I'm sure a nice wax and buff would work great as well instead of the polish.

Colour transfer can be a problem, I agree; and I use neutral shoe polish also.

Everyone has their own "formula"... try some different things and see what works best for you. Here is my "procedure":

1) Oil with Neetsfoot

2) Dye then buff

3) Resolene 50/50 with water

4) Fiebings Leather Sheen then buff

Thanks but I wasn't asking for a formula as such, I was trying to figure out why the resolene I bought to try had no protection at all, and wondered if this was usual.

As resolene is classed as a finish I would have expected to see some sign of water resistance, but I am seeing nothing; it's "almost" as if I didn't put anything on the leather at all.

From the replies it would seem as if it is being used as a seal rather than a finish?

Edited March 5, 2014 by chevvy64

[jackd942]

I have used it myself, in the same way yo do; and sometimes still do; no complaints using it at all.

Colour transfer can be a problem, I agree; and I use neutral shoe polish also.

Thanks but I wasn't asking for a formula as such, I was trying to figure out why the resolene I bought to try had no protection at all, and wondered if this was usual.

As resolene is classed as a finish I would have expected to see some sign of water resistance, but I am seeing nothing; it's "almost" as if I didn't put anything on the leather at all.

From the replies it would seem as if it is being used as a seal rather than a finish?

Not to beat a dead horse here but...that's all I've ever used it as...a sealer.

[chevvy64]

Not to beat a dead horse here but...that's all I've ever used it as...a sealer.

Thanks for that, it would appear most people are using it in the same way.

Curious about the finish on it if used alone though, and as too how much water repellency it actually gives.

[RavenAus]

Wow, that sounds like a heck of a lot of work! I dye with Cobblestone dye, spray on a coat of their finish and put some balm on. Job done, no colour transfer and water resistant. Only needs the balm to improve the feel, it's water resistant and sealed without that.

[mlapaglia]

Perhaps your light coats are too light. I use resolene 50/50. 2 coats and nothing else. I just tested an old piece and it did bead for a second then soaked in. Thats resistant to me. Try a 70/30 mix to see if a little more resolene helps or put it on a little heavier. Use a test piece of leather. Too much will bubble and crack.

[ToddB 68]

Hi jackd942

With reference to your post #10, March 05, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo do you use ?

I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on a Link, the displayed images showed quite a few different mop & glo products.

Thanks !

ToddB 68

[mostho]

I always use resolene diluted 50/50 with demineralized water, one or two coats max. Never had any problem,

I also tried different ratios as 70 resolene and 30 distiller water and still damn good. Just a little shiny.

In my very first times I even used it pure. Never had problems, made the surface really waterproof. I only applied pure with a damp sponge or a damp hand ball of made of old cotton t-shirt.

[Babbs]

Chevvy64, I regularly use resolene as my final finish. I dilute it w/water to 50/50. It is water-reisitant but is not in any way waterproof. It seals and protects. I've never had any complaints from customers and it does give a superb finish. Semper-fi Mike

Chevvy64, I regularly use resolene as my final finish. I dilute it w/water to 50/50. It is water-reisitant but is not in any way waterproof. It seals and protects. I've never had any complaints from customers and it does give a superb finish. Semper-fi Mike

what do you find works best for applying your resolene to your finished product ?

[marine mp]

Babbs...I use a cheap paint brush that you can buy at Wal-Mart for like 50 cents. Because resolene is waterbased...I rinse it several times and re-use it. When the bristles start falling out...I throw it away. Now some folks use the sponge brushes and they seem to work good. Mine are the yellow wood handled cheap-o's!!!! I'm not a cheap-skate...but they are reasonable and work great. Don't fix it if it ain't broke!!! Semper-fi. Mike

[Geneva]

I submerge my project in Resolene straight from the bottle and then wipe off the excess with a rag. If you use this on Herman Oak it will change the color to light British Tan.

Once you apply Resolene nothing else will penetrate once it is dried. You will waste the second coat of what ever it is you are trying to apply. You can use worn out tee shirts, shop towles (orange cloth), piece of sheep skin with wool attatched paper towels don't work to good they fall apart.

Trial and error works best. Use a lot of test samples. Good luck.