Double Gusset

[justinwilliams]

I'm new to the forums and to leatherworking. Hello all!

I was hoping for some help with gussets. I'd like to build a briefcase/satchel/messenger type bag, and in looking at design possibilties, it seems like there are basically two broad categories of bags: single gusset and double gusset (there are, to be sure, many more, but these two seem like standard construction methods). I have two questions:

- How should one choose what kind of gusset to use? Why choose single gusset over double gusset (or vice versa)? Is it simply an aesthetic difference? Does number of gussets influence how the bag drapes, folds, compresses, and the like? Past a certain depth, is double gusset preferable?

- Are there any tutorials available for hand stitching double gussets? It seems pretty straightforward: stitch the two gussets together, and then stitch the whole unified double gusset onto the front/back (easier said than done, I'm sure, but still not unduly complicated). Am I missing something?

Thanks for your help,

Justin

[Palermo]

"- Are there any tutorials available for hand stitching double gussets? It seems pretty straightforward: stitch the two gussets together, and then stitch the whole unified double gusset onto the front/back (easier said than done, I'm sure, but still not unduly complicated). Am I missing something?"

Pretty much you got it... Easy part is hand stitching that... Hard part would be machine stitching that.. Took me a week to finally figure out how to machine stitch that.. Have to use different tensions on corners and such...

As far as how many gussets I think profession would dictate that.... Or customers preference

[justinwilliams]

Thanks for the reply, Palermo. This wouldn't be for a customer, so there's no real concern there. As far as aesthetics go, I like both styles about the same. So that's a wash. Do you have experience using both kinds of gussets? What have you noticed as differences?

[oltoot]

Depending on the leather, double gussets usually fold up neater and often an internal divider is sewn in the DG seam. Often, on softer leathers especially, the DG is made from a single piece that is folded flat, flesh to flesh and the DG seam sewn as close to the fold as possible to keep it folded into DG configuration. as to sewing, especially corners, slight notches which become a flat surface when curved will usually do the trick

[JakeDiebolt]

The only real trick to double gussets is keeping everything lined up. I've found it to be tough going around the curves. I've sometimes pre-awled the holes going around the corner just to make sure it works, but it takes quite a bit longer. YMMV. I don't glue before hand, so that may change things.

[justinwilliams]

Ok, thanks all. It sounds like this is pretty straightforward, so I won't overthink it. Thanks, oltoot, for the tips on sewing the gusset from one piece of leather and the notches in the corner. I plan to glue, which should help to keep things lined up. I'll post when I actually get this thing off the ground.

Justin