Sam Made Report post Posted March 19, 2014 Ive been using Bob Parks method to finish the edges of my wallets for some time now because the result is simply unmatched by anything else. The only difference is I skip the paraffin wax part and just sand in-between coats of clear-lac. The edges come out smooth and polished but that only lasts about a week of normal wear. After a week or so the clear-lac begins to crack and separate itself from the leather ruining my edges. Does anyone else have this issue with clear lac or am I doing something wrong? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted March 19, 2014 Not to be a SA or anything, but considering the Bob Parks method DOES produce great results, why change it? I've never used Clear-Lac for edges, but considering it's a pretty hard substance, I'd kind of expect this. If you apply it to a flat, thick surface, like a holster, belt, etc, flexing is spread across the entire width. Here, you are laying down a very, very thin width and flexing it or rubbing it. I can't see it not cracking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam Made Report post Posted March 19, 2014 Not to be a SA or anything, but considering the Bob Parks method DOES produce great results, why change it? I've never used Clear-Lac for edges, but considering it's a pretty hard substance, I'd kind of expect this. If you apply it to a flat, thick surface, like a holster, belt, etc, flexing is spread across the entire width. Here, you are laying down a very, very thin width and flexing it or rubbing it. I can't see it not cracking. I changed it because i didn't find a difference in result when i used paraffin wax to polish before applying clear-lac. I see that your specialties are belts and dog collars. what products do you use for your edges? Thanks -Sam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted March 19, 2014 I use Edge-Coat after all my burnishing is done and everything is dry and set. After that dries, I buff it smooth with a soft rag and apply 2 or 3 very thin coats of 50/50 Resolene, letting them dry between coats. To my knowledge, I haven't had any cracking. Thinking back, I did use Saddle-Lac as a top coat at one time and found that some of the softening products I used on the flesh side made it flake off in chunks if I didn't spray it on at the right time in my sequence - ie: before any oils or softening crèmes to the flesh side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmr Report post Posted March 20, 2014 I have had the same problem with the clear-lac. Looks great for a while then cracks. I use Bob Parks method - except now I don't apply the clear lac at the end Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam Made Report post Posted March 20, 2014 I use Edge-Coat after all my burnishing is done and everything is dry and set. After that dries, I buff it smooth with a soft rag and apply 2 or 3 very thin coats of 50/50 Resolene, letting them dry between coats. To my knowledge, I haven't had any cracking. Thinking back, I did use Saddle-Lac as a top coat at one time and found that some of the softening products I used on the flesh side made it flake off in chunks if I didn't spray it on at the right time in my sequence - ie: before any oils or softening crèmes to the flesh side thanks! i tried the resolene and it gave it a nice sheen. defintely have to let it dry before applying each coat or the previous coat will clump up into little bits. (thats what happened when i got impatient. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites