Having Trouble With Rolled Edges On A Collar

[CCPhotog]

I'm running into a design issue, and I'm wondering if anyone in here has advice. I'm making collars with rolled edges.

Step 1 : Lay out the pattern on a piece of sturdy leather

Step 2 : Glue that to a piece of garment leather

Step 3 : Cut collar into shape

Step 4: Lay a strip of garment leather, good side down, onto the garment leather side of the collar. Stitch.

Step 5 : Apply adhesive to back of collar, and roll strips into place.

And this is where I tun into problems. I take a piece of fabric that's already been cut and hemmed into shape. I put it on the back of the collar, and then try to run another line of stitching snugged right up against the edges. But it's way too easy to make a mistake...

In this example, the foot of the machine was right on the edge of strap that runs down the middle, and it shifted just as the needle came down.

Other times, the stitching doesn't "grab" the fabric on the back, and I have a loose spot..

However, I can't figure out a way to finish the edges without doing another round of stitching. I considered gluing the fabric to the back, and gluing the edges of the collar over it, but my concern there is that, in time, the glue will weaken. A stitch lasts a lot longer. Plus, when the fabric part does work out, it looks great; no exposed edges, everything is either seamed or hemmed or whatnot.

[electrathon]

I think your issue is you are trying to sew on a sewn line. Try having your first line sewn a little farther in from the edge, say 3/8" and your second and final sew line closer to the edge, say at 3/32".

Or do just the opposite and sew first close to the edge and second farther away, this will depend on how you want the back to look.

Edited March 27, 2014 by electrathon

[Tree Reaper]

You can use an edge clamp or a straight stick clamped to the table to stop the shifting.

How thick can you sew with your machine and how thick is the collar?

Does the foot press down with enough pressure?

[Red Cent]

A presser foot that is wider than factory? You can get all kinds. Unless the needle kicked off the side of the leather.

[CCPhotog]

The machine is a CB3200; the collar is well under the 5/8th's it can sew.

The presser foot is the factory one. I'm getting enough pressure, it just occasionally slips when it's near an edge.

Electrathon : My goal is to not have stitching on the facing or front of the collar. I don't know if the method your describing would work for that.

[Tree Reaper]

Are you saying the needle doesn't advance or there isn't a bottom stitch when it doesn't grab?

Edited March 27, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[CCPhotog]

No, I'm saying the problem is I have trouble keeping the needle on the correct side of the rolled edge. In the final picture you can see where the needle punctured it. I don't know if there's another way to construct the collar without having to do that final line of stitching; that's the part I keep messing up on.

[Tree Reaper]

Can you not use a guide like you have on the other side?

I'm assuming the material is shifting to the left as you sew?

[CCPhotog]

I could use a guide in some areas, but the bottom of the collar changes depth, so that won't work.

And it's not even that the needle is skipping or the machine is shifting, it's just such a tight fit that even a small mistake ruins it. If anything, it's the machine that's working fine, and my poor sewing skills to blame. But I can't think of any other way to assemble this thing.

[Tree Reaper]

Are you keeping pressure on the roller guide as you sew?

Do you have a single foot?

[CCPhotog]

I haven't thought about using the roller guide freehand. Normally I just tighten it for straight things, and sew without a guide for things that aren't straight. I guess in theory I could loosen it?

the pressor foot is this one : http://www.tolindsewmach.com/images/harness-feet.jpg

[Tree Reaper]

You can get single left and right feet.

If you just used a left foot then the rolled edge wouldn't interfere it.

The problem is your right foot can't sit on that rolled edge and wants to fall off pushing the collar to the left.

Another option would be to slow down and operate the wheel by hand until the needle is in the stitching position just above the leather on every stitch.

This is a single left foot

http://shop.raphaelsewing.com/images/5100-left-toe-foot.jpg

Edited March 27, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[Red Cent]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=wide++single+preeser+foot&qpvt=wide++single+preeser+foot&FORM=IGRE

[msdeluca]

I'm assuming that you are attempting this using your foot on the pedal and at some point the material gets away from you. It looks to me like you may be going to fast. I've done sewing like this in fabric and I adjust the fabric (in your case leather piece) when the needle is just above the fabric, then run the needle into the material with the handwheel.

I have the 3200 as well and don't think your foot is slipping off due to being unsupported on one side.

When the stitch placement is absolutely critical, as it is in your piece, you just have to slow it down and place the needle into the material using the handwheel.

[charter]

+1 to Msdeluca and Treereaper - "go slower" is the best advice in the world. Try it one stitch at a time with the handwheel, and when the needle is in the the leather, lift the foot and take a look at the work to make sure you're accurate. Use a light and magnifier if needed but get a good look. You'll take an extra 5 minutes and you will never miss a stitch.

Single feet or zipper feet are really handy. You can also order a welting foot very inexpensively on eBay. It has a round channel to follow a raised bead. I got a complete set for $40(?) and it feeds this kind of job perfectly. I use them for rolled edges all the time on my flatbed Juki. Not sure if the 3200 has similar feet available though.

Consider trimming the backing after the stitching instead of cutting it into shape first and working with resulting small tolerances. It's a lot harder to miss when you have a lot of extra material

If all else fails, glue works great. You won't have a problem with a well-glued lamination IMO.

Finally, consider the order of construction and the design. I assume this is an original piece. Consider where your machinery might have problems and redesign appropriately. Move the strap down 1/4" to clear the foot and it will work much better.