Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 Hello- After reading a lot on this forum and a long search I just picked up a Consew 206rb-1…I found it with a table and motor for 325. it sews beautifully…but I'm having real trouble with the reverse tension. Sewing forward I get nice clean stitches both on the top and bottom. In reverse I get straight stitches but with consistent knots on the bottom….no loops/bird nests etc….just small knots...I'm kind of at wits end…any suggestions would be great! THANK YOU! Greg Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 29, 2014 Contributing Member Report Posted March 29, 2014 Just a guess (and that's ALL it is) - are you moving forward enough to complete the last stitch? That likely affect the tension going back if you diddn't let the last stitch "come around". On the other hand, for $3C maybe a fella could hand stitch that couple backstitches Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 Just a guess (and that's ALL it is) - are you moving forward enough to complete the last stitch? That likely affect the tension going back if you diddn't let the last stitch "come around". On the other hand, for $3C maybe a fella could hand stitch that couple backstitches Thanks JLSleather... I'll check that out….GJD Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 Gave it a look....no difference. I've changed out the needle, thinking it was to small for the polyester t70. Removed the feed dog and inspected it for burs (it's pretty worn, will replace) and have gone through the adjustment possibilities with the tensioning discs (minor grooves...will also replace) I have noticed a light, the only way I can describe it is, an inconsistent "popping" sound in reverse. Like the needle/thread is penetrating differently, maybe pulling up on the fabric differently in reverse.(I am sewing through a laminate sail material so the needle penetration does often make some sound, but this is different in reverse). I did just replace the bobbin case with a more inexpensive alternative, but it looks like its good quality. It is of the variety that has a disc to keep the bobbin from spinning needlessly in the bobbin case. I guess that could also be a factor? I sure appreciate your help, thank you! Greg Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted March 29, 2014 Moderator Report Posted March 29, 2014 Do you realize that the timing is different in reverse than in forward? If your machine is marginally timed in forward, it may be on the brink in reverse. The simplest way to find out is to remove the throat plate and feeder, then rotate the hand wheel until the needle ascends and the pickup hook intersects it. At that point, press or throw the reverse lever and watch the needle move backwards. Is the hook still arriving above the eye, or is it almost inline with it? You can adjust the timing by either advancing the hook, or lowering the needle bar. Try one or the other and see if that improves the situation. Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 Do you realize that the timing is different in reverse than in forward? If your machine is marginally timed in forward, it may be on the brink in reverse. The simplest way to find out is to remove the throat plate and feeder, then rotate the hand wheel until the needle ascends and the pickup hook intersects it. At that point, press or throw the reverse lever and watch the needle move backwards. Is the hook still arriving above the eye, or is it almost inline with it? You can adjust the timing by either advancing the hook, or lowering the needle bar. Try one or the other and see if that improves the situation. Thx Wizcrafts....no I didn't know the timing is different in reverse. Kinda freaking out on the thought of trying to time this machine, but I'll get over it:) I'll take some time later this afternoon and check it out. Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 OK…here is what I found. I have another video with the feed dog removed should I upload that one too? THANK YOU! Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted March 29, 2014 Moderator Report Posted March 29, 2014 Can't see the hook in relation to the eye of the needle. Remove the feed dog and upload it. Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 29, 2014 Can't see the hook in relation to the eye of the needle. Remove the feed dog and upload it. try this, http://youtu.be/Hqej3rFlD4w Wiz if this doesnt work, I can put some better lights on it, and shoot it again:) Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted March 30, 2014 Moderator Report Posted March 30, 2014 The timing looks good. Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 30, 2014 Wiz, that's fantastic news....thank you! I ordered a new feed dog and tensioning discs from Bob Saturday. When I get them installed I'll fine tune until I get it right. Greg Quote
Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted March 31, 2014 Members Report Posted March 31, 2014 Parts book for Consew 206RB-1, as requested; http://keysew.com/webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/206RB-1.pdf Quote
Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted March 31, 2014 Members Report Posted March 31, 2014 BTW, if you are making adjustments on any 206RB series, this is the book use here; http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/Consew206RB-5_SeikoSTH-8BLD-3.pdf Quote
Members 1sam16 Posted March 31, 2014 Author Members Report Posted March 31, 2014 BTW, if you are making adjustments on any 206RB series, this is the book use here; http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/Consew206RB-5_SeikoSTH-8BLD-3.pdf Perfect timing Gregg..I'm really amazed at how generous all of you are with your advice! Thank You! Quote
Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted March 31, 2014 Members Report Posted March 31, 2014 (edited) Perfect timing, no pun intended??! Sorry, I can't help but squeeze some sewing machine humor in here, it's all I got! Really, glad to share, and it's a two way street, I learn a lot from folks here on the leatherworker. You can't replace decades of experience using this equipment that many carry with them here. In addition, I learn what speed bumps and obstacles people have getting up and running with their equipment. Folks that don't anticipate a learning curve with a new machine, new operator, etc., well that's just not realistic. Edited March 31, 2014 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing Quote
Members Zenbaas Posted June 10, 2014 Members Report Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) Good day all. Looked up this thread instead of creating a new one. I am looking for a leather sewing machine and I see the consew 206rb recommended from time to time. I have the opportunity to purchase a rb-1 model for roughly $300 although in our local currency it amounts to a bit more. I have also seen it mentioned that it should be able to sew up to 3/8". My question is can it sew up to that unaltered.? Would this be a good deal? All input appreciated. Edited June 10, 2014 by Zenbaas Quote
Members Techsew Ron Posted June 16, 2014 Members Report Posted June 16, 2014 Good day all. Looked up this thread instead of creating a new one. I am looking for a leather sewing machine and I see the consew 206rb recommended from time to time. I have the opportunity to purchase a rb-1 model for roughly $300 although in our local currency it amounts to a bit more. I have also seen it mentioned that it should be able to sew up to 3/8". My question is can it sew up to that unaltered.? Would this be a good deal? All input appreciated. Yes that's a good price for the 206rb-1. If you're sewing up to 3/8" thick (the maximum) you'll want to be using a size 23 or 24 needle and make sure to use a powerful enough motor. Ron Quote
Members Zenbaas Posted June 16, 2014 Members Report Posted June 16, 2014 Yes that's a good price for the 206rb-1. If you're sewing up to 3/8" thick (the maximum) you'll want to be using a size 23 or 24 needle and make sure to use a powerful enough motor. Ron Thank you Ron. I doubt I would ever sew that thick it's simply to have some headroom and not having to push the machine too hard when sewing normally. Will look into getting a servo motor at a later stage probably or doing a gear reduction done if I'm having too much trouble. Quote
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