DavidL Report post Posted April 11, 2014 My process - Take leather - no dipping in water or wiping with alcohol. Just using a dauber to lightly put on 2 coats of dye. Wait 2 minutes to dry, buff off the access and apply atom wax. All the steps so far all done within two minutes. Leather looks good and there are no problems. I've tried to let the dye dry longer and i don't see a difference immediately. Over time will an issue show up if i don't let it dry for a few hours (i heard 24 from others). Wetting the leather after it is dyed does that even out the tone and excess dye? Also the alcohol dye has a strong smell it doesn't bother me, but should i be concerned of my health if I'm using it for long periods of time? Last question, the one Im interested in most. If the leather is wet does dye and atom wax absorb into the leather? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted April 11, 2014 Most of the time when I have a dye job that went south, . . . blotchy, . . . spotty, . . . uneven, . . . etc. It can usually be traced at least suggestively to moisture. I have since made it policy that water is used in some parts of my process, . . . but never around the dying, . . . as I do not use water based dyes. Think about this: putting alcohol or oil in a jar, . . . then adding water, . . . what do you get? A stinking mess that is good for nothing. I apply that same reasoning to alcohol or oil going on my leather and adding water. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted April 11, 2014 saddle soap after it dries and is buffed will that allow alcohol dyes to absorb? Olive oil is used before dying? or after dying? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Basically Bob Report post Posted April 11, 2014 Many of the projects I completed when I was making small projects and at the beginning of this journey were finished similar to what you are describing. I dyed the leather, let it dry for a short while ... perhaps an hour or two (whenever the leather appeared to be dry). applied neatsfoot oil and then finished with atom wax. Atom wax looks great, for sure, however, it is not weather resistant so if you are making things that are going to be exposed to the weather, keep this in mind. I am making guitar straps, now, and am concerned about colour transfer so I have changed the process. I dye and let dry for at least 24 hours. This, I believe, ensures that the dye has really taken hold in the leather. Next, I apply neatsfoot oil and let it dry for at least 24 hours. (softens things up a bit) Next, I apply, 2/3 coats light coats of Resolene (50/50). This is an acrylic sealer and will prevent colour transfer. I use an air brush or sponge depending on the size of project. After waiting for a minimum of 24 hours, I apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing, let it sit until it looks to be absorbed in the leather and buff. I line all of my straps with supple, 2/3 oz. chap leather. Works for me (this week LOL). For edges, I burnish with saddle soap, dye, burnish, rub on bees wax & burnish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks for sharing il keep this in mind next time I dye a project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites