32x20 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 I've learned a lot from reading these forums and thought I'd show my first works. I'd wanted some leather for my TCP and decided to try building some myself. After doing a lot of reading here I ordered some HO 6/7oz leather, fiebings die, and the SLC sewing kit. First try was the pocket holster. The stitch line was a little loose, so I offset it a bit to tighten things up. I didn't do too much forming as I didn't want too much retention. Second piece was the pancake. I liked the double stitchline look after my adjustment on the pocket holster so did it intentionally this time. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I could use some more work on edges and I've gotta work on keeping the awl perpendicular when punching holes. The holster is a little tight now but I think it will break in to be about right. Working on these really gives you an appreciation for what goes into the professional stuff. One question: I wasn't great at keeping the awl at 45deg, but I was close for most of the pancake. What do you do at corners? I wasn't sure whether to split the difference in angle at corners or align the awl with one of the rows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted April 19, 2014 Those actually look pretty good for the 'new guy' More important, you're already picking up on how adjustments are made and what your own preferences are. For the awl, keep it in line with the groove. There will always be SOME angle that doesn't like it, but this will keep the awl blade marks IN the channel where you want 'em. GOOD START! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertmeco Report post Posted April 19, 2014 You have a great start on making holsters. You might want to make the side of the holster that goes away from the body flat (pocket holster) the object is to not print gun through the pants, also you might need a thumb pushoff on the holster to separate gun from holster when you draw. You have done a good job for your first holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
32x20 Report post Posted April 20, 2014 Thanks! I appreciate the advice and critique. JLS, I'm gonna keep the awl in the groove next time. Robert, it definitely prints pretty bad. I may re-do that one with a flat side and work on the 'pocket retention' devices. I checked out your website and you've really got some 'cadillac' pocket holsters. I did some testing with cut folders and think your 'split' holster might be the best idea to prevent printing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertmeco Report post Posted April 20, 2014 Thanks! I appreciate the advice and critique. JLS, I'm gonna keep the awl in the groove next time. Robert, it definitely prints pretty bad. I may re-do that one with a flat side and work on the 'pocket retention' devices. I checked out your website and you've really got some 'cadillac' pocket holsters. I did some testing with cut folders and think your 'split' holster might be the best idea to prevent printing. 32x20 If I can help you give me a call I would be glad to help Robert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
32x20 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 I've been wearing the pancake some and am having trouble with the dye leaching out when I get sweaty. When I finished the holsters I dyed (fiebings), then gave it a light coat of EVOO, then two wipe-on coats of Mop-n-glo/water. I let it dry in between all of the steps. I thought the mopnglo had sealed it up but not enough, evidently. Any suggestions for preventing the dye from getting out again? Should I just dip them in the mopnglo mix? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Did you rub off excess dye after it dried and before you sealed. How did you apply the dye? How did you apply the oil and how heavily did you apply it? If you oiled it to heavily it may be the oil leaching out. As to the dye using feibings I have had rub off, that is why you need to rub it down good after the dye has dried Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
32x20 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Did you rub off excess dye after it dried and before you sealed. How did you apply the dye? How did you apply the oil and how heavily did you apply it? If you oiled it to heavily it may be the oil leaching out. As to the dye using feibings I have had rub off, that is why you need to rub it down good after the dye has dried I applied the dye using the wool 'dauber' that came with it. I did apply it pretty heavily to get a more even coat. When I was doing the edges I rubbed it some but probably should have rubbed the body of the holster more heavily. I rubbed the edges pretty hard with canvas. I was pretty light with the oil. I put some on a paper towel and applied a light coat and let it set 24hr before sealing. If I apply another coat of mopnglo and rub heavily will it prevent this? Or is it too late? The mopnglo mix seemed to allow the dye to seep out while it was wet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Take a damp white cloth rub the holster a little see if you get any color. If so take a course cloth and rub the holster until you are no longer getting any sings of rub off. Then seal again with mop n glo 50/50 or what ever you want to use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites