Chicago Screws Made Out Of Wood?

[DavidL]

Thank you tree reaper that in the ballpark of how I want it to look like. I have no knowledge of wood tools. My family lived in a Country where very few people have garages, so home improvement isn't embraced and passed down (wished it was).

The forester bit can it be used in a hand drill?

Is a pilot the smaller hole show in the first picture to guide the forester bit?

The caps how are they made? Pre purchased? or did you use a plug cutter then sanded to get that smooth edge.

was all this held down in the jig you made?

Last question how long did it take for a single cap at normal pace.

[shtoink]

Tree Reaper, It's funny that that is what you came up with. It was nearly the exact thing I had in mind when I suggested a cap for existing Chicago screws earlier on.

[Tree Reaper]

shtoink;

It just dawned on me earlier today when the wheels were still turning.

The screw I used has a bit of a convexed head so I would take a flat file to it for a better fit.

David;

I don't mind helping you because I know you appreciate the help.

You can use a forstner bit with a hand drill, I used a drill press.

The bits are relatively inexpensive.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forsbit.htm?zoom_highlight=forstner+bits

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/DM_FreudFB104_Bits.jpg

The smaller hole is the pilot hole.

Those are hardwood screw caps and can be bought at a hardware store, they have a stub on them that can be cut off so the bottom is flush.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/216k5hOreEL.jpg

I used a similar jig, just a larger hole to match the larger cap.

It only took seconds to bore it out, to put it in the jig , clamp it and drill it less than a minute.

Cutting the stub off took about 15 seconds.

If I used the same caps I would grind the pilot down a little because the caps aren't very thick.

[DavidL]

Tree Reaper, It's funny that that is what you came up with. It was nearly the exact thing I had in mind when I suggested a cap for existing Chicago screws earlier on.

Yes, you did say to try this and it does work out well, should have looked more into it. I didn't think it was possible to get it done this nicely until I saw the pictures.

Edited May 8, 2014 by DavidL

[Tree Reaper]

Without the counter bore you don't get a tight fit.

The leather must be counter bored or the cap must be counter bored in order for the wood to sit tight on the leather and not ride too high.

I think the best and final decision would be to just cut the stub off the cap and counter bore the leather 1/32 " deep.

You won't have to drill the cap just the leather, quick and simple.

Glue the cap to the chicago screw and you're off to the races.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[DavidL]

okay. Il try it out. Thank you for your help couldn't have done it otherwise.

[Tree Reaper]

If the leather you use is thick enough, say 8+ oz. it will work.

If using lighter weight leather then the cap will have to be drilled.

When you counter bore the leather don't go too deep, the head of a chicago screw is about 3/64 thick so if you bore into the leather 1/32 the head of the screw will be doing all the work and the wood cap will just sit on top for decoration.

File the head of the screw with a file or sandpaper to rough it up, clean with alcohol and use 10 minute JB Weld to glue the cap to the screw head like shtoink first suggested and you'll have what you want.

Use a flush cut saw http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/DWHT20541_3.jpg to trim off the stubs and sand flush.

Drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood and put the cap in the hole to hold it while you cut and sand it.

Good luck with your project.

[DavidL]

Very helpful thank you tree reaper.