Finishing Leather That Will Be In Direct Contact With Skin

[Koska23]

Hi All,

I know this topic had been covered a lot previously, and I've tried looking for the answers without posting a new topic, but I'd still like to get some input from you.

I've recently started making leather watch straps. I like the results, and have no big problems with any of the techniques, except from dying and finishing. I am using veg tan leather for this. The challenge with watch straps is that the leather is in direct contact with skin, so perspiration causes some dye to bleed out of the leather.

Going forward I will probably avoid dying the side that is in contact with skin (this is not the flesh side, as I am folding the leather when making straps), but even for the top side, I would like to lock in the color as much as possible, to avoid damaging the sleeves from the color bleed and rub off.

Here are some of the questions I have regarding this:

1. If I use acrylic resolene for waterproofing, to prevent the water from penetrating the leather (to a certain degree), it should work the other way around as well, preventing the dye to bleed out. Is this correct?

2. Does using acrylic resolene or leather sheen provide permanent protection from dye bleed/rub off, or is it a treatment that needs to be repeated after certain periods of time? I am not too worried about waterproofing or leather conditioning, as this will be the concern for the person who purchases the product going forward. I am more concerned with locking in the dye.

3. Right now I am using Eco-Flo water based dye. Now that I am reading the posts I see that most people recommend using spirit dyes instead. I am happy with the visual results of water based color, just concerned with locking in the color. Does spirit/oil based dye provide better results when it comes to this? Will I get similar results when using resolene or sheen on water based dyes?

4. Any additional advice/comments regarding the subject are more than welcome.

Thanks everyone!

Dejan

[cst]

I don't know about resolene, cause I haven't used it much. I have made several straps from vegtan dyed with Fiebing's oil and regular dyes and finished with leather balm with atom wax. None have bled color onto my arm or sleeves (I sweat a lot). I think the trick is to really give them a good buff once the dye has dried. And let the dye dry. Whenever I think I've buffed enough, I buff some more. I always finish buffing the dyed piece and the waxed piece with an old white t-shirt. It will let you know if any dye has come off. I also always put at least two coats of wax on.

Good luck

Edited May 19, 2014 by cst

[Koska23]

Thanks cst. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've tried buffing it out. I only have Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner with beeswax at this point, so I've tried with that. The dye keeps coming off consistently, to the point where I'm beginning to see the natural veg tan color underneath. Almost as if the dye did not penetrate at all? Is this because I've used the water based dye? I've applied several coats of dye, and have let it dry completely before trying to buff it out.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Dejan

[Redrum]

I've been using Eco-Flo Professional water base dye and it doesn't penetrate the leather and will rub off in time.I've switch to roon for my black and couldn't be happier and plan on trying alchohol or oil base dyes.