Exotic Watch Bands, What Sewing Machine Is Hadley Roma Using In This Video?

[teddycrafts]

Recently i did some research and was told my senior members here that i need to look for a triple feed smooth feed walking foot sewing machine.

I contacted a local industrial sewing machine seller, he said i don't need a walking foot for my straps as my straps are single layer. He said that walking foot is used to sew layers of leather.

I am making exotic straps for 45mm-47mm watches, thus my straps are 4mm in thickness, top layer would be crocodile/shark.

I went to youtube and saw a video by hadley roma.

At 3.25 you can see that they are using sewing machine for their straps, obviously not a walking foot, what machine is that?

My question is that do i need a walking foot for a single layer ( glued 3 layers together already ) leather or something else like the machine in this video?

[teddycrafts]

I made the stitchless lizard strap and some croc too.

[Wizcrafts]

The sewing machine in the Hadley Roma video is a plain old straight stitch Singer 31-15 or equivalent, with a roller foot conversion and an inline edge guide screwed onto the body. These are slow speed, manually oiled tailors' machines. My Dad used one and I have one at home. They have a sewing capacity of 1/4 inch, or 6 mm. The thread handling maxes out at #69 (T70) or maybe #92 (T90) bonded nylon or polyester. The largest practical needle size is #140 (Singer #22). My guess is that those straps were being sewn with high quality B46/T50 thread, using a #75 or 80 needle.

You should be able to find a complete Singer tailors' machine, with motor and table, for about $500. Another $150 to $200 gets you the servo motor conversion. The roller foot conversion will cost you about $40 USD and consists of three parts: the roller foot attachment, single row feed dog and a matching single slot throat plate. You will need to adjust the presser bar up to install the roller foot attachment, then move it sideways to line up the roller with the slot and feed dog. Some dealers will convert a straight stitch slow speed machine into a roller foot machine. This saves you a lot of dinking around and possibly bad mistakes.

These machines normally come with a 20" x 48" x 1.75" table, mounted onto a "k-legs" steel stand. There is a big floor pedal that connects to an industrial motor and a knee lever under the oil pan that lifts the presser foot and releases the top thread tension. There should be a thread stand that holds two or more large cones and a bobbin winder attachment screwed onto the right side of the long slot for the v-belt that powers the machine. The bobbin winder has a big wheel that you push into the belt to load a bobbin. There is an adjustable metal tang that moves out as the bobbin loads. When the bobbin is as full as you can safely load it, the tang pops up, disengaging the bobbin winder wheel from the v-belt.

Don't make the mistake of buying a new high speed self oiling machine. You will never spin it fast enough to distribute the oil to the extremities, sewing watch bands

[teddycrafts]

I've sent the details you listed to a local seller, i think i will stay away from walking foot since i am only sewing single layer ( glued ) strap.

Will there be any modern machines that work as good as this machine for my straps? Because i feel that it is easier for the dealer to source one like this,

[Wizcrafts]

I've sent the details you listed to a local seller, i think i will stay away from walking foot since i am only sewing single layer ( glued ) strap.

Will there be any modern machines that work as good as this machine for my straps? Because i feel that it is easier for the dealer to source one like this,

Yes, if your dealer is able to get a manually oiled straight stitch machine, setup with a servo motor for slow speed operation, and convert it to a roller feed. Many of the newer straight stitch machines are made for very high speed sewing (e.g. 5,000+ SPM) and contain oil pumps that sit inside an oil pan that has a gasket between it and the machine head. Unless those machines are routinely spun at over 2,000 RPM, the oil may not be properly distributed to the end points. That's when __it happens and the machine seizes.

FYI: 5,000 SPM = 5,000 Stitches Per Minute \60 = 83 stitches per second!

[teddycrafts]

Besides this, i also need to tell the dealer that i need a straight stitch machine without the bottom grid/ looks like claws/teeth? I was thinking it will scratch the bottom of the leather.

I am going to tell the dealer i have 2 options, mid quality walking foot triple feed with smooth feed ( without bottom grid ) and the straight stitch one without bottom grid + servo and roller guide.

Thanks for taking so much time and effort to answer my questions

Edited May 22, 2014 by teddycrafts

[Wizcrafts]

Besides this, i also need to tell the dealer that i need a straight stitch machine without the bottom grid/ looks like claws/teeth? I was thinking it will scratch the bottom of the leather.

I am going to tell the dealer i have 2 options, mid quality walking foot triple feed with smooth feed ( without bottom grid ) and the straight stitch one without bottom grid + servo and roller guide.

Thanks for taking so much time and effort to answer my questions

From the first comment I suspect that you have absolutely no understanding of how sewing machines work. You would do well to purchase a used home style sewing machine and watch how it moves material along. You need a better understanding of the mechanics before you start telling dealers what you want them to order or build for you.

[Wizcrafts]

What I should have said earlier is that on a straight stitch roller foot machine, you need the bottom teeth on the feed dog to pull the leather to form the stitches. The top roller on a roller foot machine spins with the top grain to avoid drag, while still holding the leather down between stitches.

If you get a walking foot machine, the needle and inside foot feed the material, with the assistance of the feed dog. Some folks fill in the teeth on the feed dog with rubber or silicon, or such, to reduce the effect of the teeth on the bottom. I don't think tooth marks on the bottom will be a problem for watch bands..

[teddycrafts]

Hey, you are right that i don't know anything bout the machines hehe. I just went to wiki and read up on feed dogs,etc. I also called a dealer and ask him more about it, i think even if i get triple feed walking foot like the models you suggested, it will still leave marks at the back of the strap. Means all machines including triple feed have feed dogs at the bottom to pull the leather.?

I contacted a strap maker, he told me to get a machine that will not have sittch ont he underside.... he said he can't advice because he don't use sewing machines.

I found 2 videos on youtube, i believe this 2 strap makers don't use walking foot, because the top stitch color is different from the bottom, what machine is that?

[Wizcrafts]

TeddyCrafts;

You still don't understand how these machines sew. Walking foot and straight stitch machines used in our trade are lockstitch machines. Google this term. Lockstitch machines have bobbins on the bottom, which form the bottom half of the stitches. Bobbin thread can be any color you choose, since the operator of the machine usually loads his or her own bobbins from large spools of thread.

As for the feed dog leaving marks, this is not going to be noticeable on textured leather. Further, you can reduce the pressure on the presser foot/feet to minimize and marks on the bottom.

As I suggested, go buy a home sewing machine and learn how they work. Experiment with different thread and presser feet. Move up to an industrial machine once you really know what you want. This will save you a lot of aggravation and pestering of your suppliers.

[LTC]

this is why i hand sew all my stuff. i've been able to minimize feed dog marks using a trick i came up with, but my hand stitching looks good so i prefer that to machine sewing, for leather anyway.

[teddycrafts]

Ok, will try to use my mom's sewing machine to see how it works, thanks again.

[teddycrafts]

this is why i hand sew all my stuff. i've been able to minimize feed dog marks using a trick i came up with, but my hand stitching looks good so i prefer that to machine sewing, for leather anyway.

Do you mind sharing with us how you reduce the marks? I called a different supplier today and the supplier suggest JUKI 1181 like the other did last week, and i told him that this machine leave marks and she told me to put paper at the bottom, but don't make sense to me..... cos if you put paper and remove it later, your stitch wont be tight.

[dirtclod]

Teddycrafts i have a 31/15 and a walking foot machine. I'll sew some stuff and post the pictures. I don't remember any marks from the feeddogs but i'll check.

Edited May 24, 2014 by dirtclod

[dirtclod]

Well i can't figure out how to post a picture any more sense things have changed. Tried phto bucket and it won't let me use it, tried to post picture off of a card and it won't let me.

Anyway i sewed some soft chrome tan with the walking foot and the 31/15 with a roller foot and neither backside marked. I don't think i have any thin veg tan. What i think you should do is take some pieces of what ever you want to sew to the dealers and try the machine out and see hoe you like it.