S&W 629 IWB holster design

[gavingear]

Well, I have some vegetable tan leather, 207 thread, needles, dye, and hand tools on order. I'm pretty excited to make my 1st holster. This will be an "Inside the Waistband" holster for my new 4" 44 magnum to wear concealed while hiking. I've already test fit the gun in my carhart jeans (to get desired height and cant angle), and have started to outline a basic design for this IWB holster based on quite a few designs that I've studied on this site, and from holster manufacturers.

Here's the design:

Here's the process that I intend on following: (belt loops and snaps not covered here)

1. Layout the pattern on the leather and gun. Trace the backing piece (the one that will contact your hip while wearing it IWB

2. Cut backing piece

3. Moisten the leather used for the outside piece

4. Use boning tool(s) and other methods to form the leather over the gun and add details

5. Let the leather dry (possibly with heat/oven)

6. Trim the top leather piece

7. Do the stitching (I have an industrial walking foot sewing machine with 9/16" presser foot lift and zipper feet for left and right directions)

8. If needed, moisten the leather again, insert gun for final forming, let dry

9. Round/burnish edges

10. Dye the whole thing black (I'm usign black thread as well)

11. Buff the holster

Anyone want to correct this process and/or add anything? Thanks!

[TwinOaks]

Hi and to Leatherworker.net.

Very nice intro, and you're asking the right questions. For an IWB, I suggest building a tab on the body side of the holster to protect the pistol from your skin. Yes, even if you wear a t-shirt, sweat can still affect it. Also I strongly recommend adding a retention strap to it. IWB holsters aren't known as 'speed draw' holsters, and having the strap won't slow you down that much anyway. It will help to keep the pistol where it's supposed to be, and thereby prevent loss, or ND/ADs.

For that size cylinder, are you sure you want to try pulling that past a belt? You might consider building it so that only the barrel is in the waste band. It'll take more leather, but it's something to think about....But then again, are you sure you need IWB for wilderness areas? OWB seems to make more sense.

Please read about glueing the holster before stitching, it makes life a whole lot easier.

Do you think you'll need to reinforce the mouth to keep the holster from closing when it's empty?

If it's an IWB, I wonder why you'll be putting a whole lot of detail on the holster. Simply molding to hold the pistol would speed up production time and save a step.

Also, since you're going with all black, have you considered using vinegaroon? (search that term for more info)

If, once it's dried, it's really hard to draw/holster the cannon revolver, use a teflon based lubricant spray (RemDry for example) to coat the inside of the holster. That will slick things up nicely.

Last thing from me- move the belt slots so that the top of the revolver is closer to the tabs, and the trigger side of the holster is the one further away.

That's about all I can think of right now, but rest assured, some of the holster makers will find this before too long and add some good advice.

Mike

Edited October 19, 2008 by TwinOaks

[$$hobby]

I agree w/Twinoaks about IWB for your 629.

However, since this is your first holster, it will be a good learning experince on how to make a holster and maybe why not to have an N frame revolver for IWB. IAC, you can take what youve learned and apply it to an OWB holster if you choose.

I think you will find that having that N frame pressing against your bod while hiking isnt going to be confortable. however, some people have a higher tolerance for rubs/pain ect. ALso, the Hogues (if thats what you have on it) will need something between you and the Hogues.

i see nothing wrong with they method you chose and your design but i wouldnt put the holster in an oven to dry. I think you will find that left indoors will dry almost overnight if not the 2nd day.

also, welcome.

Edited October 19, 2008 by $$hobby

[gavingear]

Thanks guys, yes, those considerations do make sense. Perhaps I should start with a pancake (would only need to substitute IWB loops/snaps for belt cutouts...) as I need and OWB for when shooting outdoors for fun anyways. I do like the idea of concealed carry with this gun while hiking however, so I'll need to ponder that some more.

So if I do go with OWB, does anyone have a "leather and snap" design for a thumb-break action retention strap?

...or perhaps I do a 1911 IWB for my PT-1911

Edited October 19, 2008 by gavingear

[TwinOaks]

Nothing wrong with IWBing your 1911 , but I don't think I'd take it to the woods. There was a pretty lengthy discussion about the suitability of the .45ACP on another forum I'm on (m1911[dot]org), and the general consensus was that if you're in cat or bear country, .357 mag was the minimum. Anything else, yeah, ol' loudmouth is probably sufficient. Besides, just because you need to conceal doesn't mean you have to go IWB. It's quite possible to make a high riding holster that's OWB, and that way you could cover with only a long shirt or jacket.

BOOMSTICKholsters, and K-man, I believe gave some info on where to get the little steel reinforcment shims that go with a thumb break holster.

[okie44]

Looks like a good start, and you have put a lot of thought into it. One thing to think about, is how big you are and how you are built make a big difference in the size of gun and method of carry. I am of considerable girth, with lots of padding, and I can stick about anything in my belt, as long as it's not too long. Drawing that big cylinder past a belt is a consideration, but if you do carry it that low, you won't have much problem with retention. I have carried .38 and .357 revolvers that way without much problem, but that .44 is a good bit bigger. One of the things I did on my holsters, was bring the leather up above the cylinder, so that just the grip shows. That allows the inside of the holster to act as a kind of ramp, if that's the right word, that helps pull the cylinder passed the belt. Also letting the the gun ride with the cylinder below the belt will make less of a bulge right at your belt. You said that you had tried it in your jeans, for fit, and that is a good start in telling how it will carry. If you can, try carrying it around the house for a while and get an idea just how big a pain it will be. I also agree that putting leather between you and the gun is a good idea. One last thing, I like to leave the bottom of the holster a little longer than the barrel, so that it will bend and soften the line at the end. It will be less apt to rub on your leg and make a sore spot (experience). I carry some kind of gun concealed daily, and while I don't know all there is to know about holsters, I am rapidly learning what works for me, and that is what counts. Concealed carry holsters are a VERY personal item.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Welcome to the forum, gavingear.

I noticed right away that the design you have drawn would do an excellent job of keeping the butt of the grip in. I would consider making the holster ride a bit higher so the cylinder is just above the belt line (this would help the gun not print as badly, and make the draw easier). You will have to try the holster as is first, but you might also consider adding more surface area to the back side so the load spreads out a little (having all the pressure on a small area leads to discomfort in a short period of time).

If you're a little apprehensive about making the IWB first, go ahead and try a pancake style. I would actually make one that snaps onto the belt, and looks almost exactly like what you've already drawn. I personally don't have much use for a retention snap in a concealed carry holster, since the cover garment does a great job of thwarting any grab attempts (open carry is a whole other thing, but it has it's own problems so I tend to favor concealment).

Anyhow, good luck with your first hoslter project, and don't get discouraged if you have to scrap a few holsters before you get things right.