First Attempt At Making A Bag. (Gusset Questions)

[mrtreat32]

Im gonna give my first attempts at bag making this week after I receive a new shipment of leather. I have been reading a ton of stuff online and books trying to wrap my head around the subject and getting this right but Im still a bit confused on properly constructing gussets.

Is there any resource online that you think most clearly shows the construction of a tote type bag or any other style. I want to hopefully walk into this project with some level of confidence.

The art of making cases by al stohlman shows the use of a french edger when connecting seams but other tutorials I find don't seem to mention this. Im also a bit confused who the holes are lined up from each section since they are punched separately from one another.

Most of the gusset designs I have seen in books are 2 and 3 piece style but I see a lot of bags constructed like this online.

http://www.teranishibrand.com/products/day-tripper

It appears that besides the handles the main body is just 2 large pieces folded in on each other and sewn on the inside. Is this as easy as it looks and is there any other prep that needs to go into the construction of this style of bag besides maybe skiving the 2 ends that meet if using thick leather. Im thinking this might be the best style to try first or does anyone recommend a style of bag that they think is best for someone new to this area of leather work.

[Hi Im Joe]

I would pick up the Valerie Michael book and read the section on gussets. She describes two types of gussets. Square 3 piece gussets as well as "U" shaped gussets.

[mrtreat32]

I would pick up the Valerie Michael book and read the section on gussets. She describes two types of gussets. Square 3 piece gussets as well as "U" shaped gussets.

I have that book! Its probably my favorite leather working resource so far but that section is limited to one page.

I get the general idea of what she is saying but its hard to put into use. Any other resource you can think of that goes more in depth on the topic?

[Wild Bill46]

Hi MR

I think this might be worth looking into Richard Black, Purse, tote, Carry-all, briefcase, Etc whatever you wish to call it

Maybe its not a womans "purse' but it is helpful, and fun , not to mention educational !

I made my wife one and she loves it !

Hope this helps in some way.

[Hi Im Joe]

I have that book! Its probably my favorite leather working resource so far but that section is limited to one page.

I get the general idea of what she is saying but its hard to put into use. Any other resource you can think of that goes more in depth on the topic?

I mean the three piece look at the briefcase example in the back. The U shaped gusset look at the large shoulder bag. The thing with the U shaped gusset is making a mold to get the tab of the gusset to sit at 90*. It's a lot of work but doing it right is sometimes like that. I'm not sure how much more in depth is going to help you. She basically tells you exactly what to do. The doing it part is just difficult.

[Kustom]

The day tripper bag is made out of soft leather. It doesn't have a gusset per say. It's two pieces of leather with a square cut out on each side of the bottom of both pieces. It is sewn inside out and turned when finished. The pieces are sewn together at the bottom. The squares are pushed together and sewn, then turned inside out,

[mrtreat32]

The day tripper bag is made out of soft leather. It doesn't have a gusset per say. It's two pieces of leather with a square cut out on each side of the bottom of both pieces. It is sewn inside out and turned when finished. The pieces are sewn together at the bottom. The squares are pushed together and sewn, then turned inside out,

Yes that makes sense. Im trying to find a tutorial for this sort of thing.

From what youre saying it sounds like its constructed similar to a canvas tote that I have. Im looking at the inside of the tote now to get a idea but wondering what would need to be done differently for a leather version if anything.

thanks

[Kustom]

Watch this video and apply it to a bigger bag.

[jimmy eng]

If you're going to use thick leather then it'll be best to have the seams face out and make it a feature, not in. Turning thick leather won't give you a great seam when it's bagged.

But it's as Kustom described and it's that easy.

[DavidL]

Was the leather you order french calf? Id love to see the finished product with french leather.

3/4 may be too thin and it looks like that bag was made of 4/5 or 5/6.

The shape of the pattern would look like a cross, although not symmetrical

If you start from a small toiletry bag (pretty simple) you would get a better understanding when you get to something at a larger scale.

Also making the bag from fabric will also ensure that the bag will come out nicely.

[mrtreat32]

If you're going to use thick leather then it'll be best to have the seams face out and make it a feature, not in. Turning thick leather won't give you a great seam when it's bagged.

But it's as Kustom described and it's that easy.

thanks. that makes sense.

The al stohlman books usually demonstrate the use of a french edger before joining the seams. Im assuming I can maybe just skive the edges since I don't have a french edging tool at the moment.

[mrtreat32]

Was the leather you order french calf? Id love to see the finished product with french leather.

3/4 may be too thin and it looks like that bag was made of 4/5 or 5/6.

The shape of the pattern would look like a cross, although not symmetrical

If you start from a small toiletry bag (pretty simple) you would get a better understanding when you get to something at a larger scale.

Also making the bag from fabric will also ensure that the bag will come out nicely.

The leather order that I got in was from Maverick not french calf.

A little off topic but yesterday I received samples of Box calf, baby calf, and another type of leather from a French tannery that I was interested in ordering. The leather was very nice but also very soft. Im a little hesitant now because it seems like it would be very hard to sew cleanly and work with. Im gonna sew the samples they sent me to get a better idea and I will let you know how it turns out if interested.

[DavidL]

Box calf is the toughest type of leather to stitch on according to an article about hermes. Is the leather super soft and formless like regular fabric? or a has a bit of shape like horween pull up or stiff chrome leather?

Im receiving a sample from http://charleshardtke.com and hopefully it will work out a bit nicer, maybe its worth checking out.

Could you post a few pics of how it folds and the stitches on it I'm really interested.

[mrtreat32]

Box calf is the toughest type of leather to stitch on according to an article about hermes. Is the leather super soft and formless like regular fabric? or a has a bit of shape like horween pull up or stiff chrome leather?

Im receiving a sample from http://charleshardtke.com and hopefully it will work out a bit nicer, maybe its worth checking out.

Could you post a few pics of how it folds and the stitches on it I'm really interested.

I will post pictures after I sew on it etc for you to see.

It feels very similar to some samples of kidskin I have from Springfield leather but a lot nicer of course. But the way it bends and the thickness.

It is stiff enough that I can see it working for interiors of wallets but Im not sure how people get it to hold up on the outside..maybe it does? I saw a picture of a bag someone made out of the exact same leather on this forum that looked very nice but by feeling it so far I have no clue how it holds that shape. Hermes uses it on all kinds that it doesn't seem like it would work with

Another thing is when you cut it the exposed edges are not dyed through which seems a bit odd. When you look towards the middle its just white..kinda hard to explain. It also does not burnish at all with traditional methods I have tried. I can get Horween chrome tanned leathers on the other hand to burnish pretty well.

The lady also sent me baby calf and Rusticalf which has a very cool texture. The baby calf feels very similar to the box except it comes in more colors and the skins are much smaller. The rusticalf looks the nicest in my opinion and feels amazing but it is Super soft so unless I decide to make slouchy style tote bags or something similar I can't imagine I would have any use for it.

[DavidL]

Im not sure if hermes uses stiffeners (probably not plastic at least) so it could be just two pieces of leather stitched together for more stiffness. So maybe thats how it holds shape in bags?

I have seen barenia used in hermes goods and its stiff and holds shape like vegtan since its combination tan of veg and chrome plus aniline dyed.

I may have to look at french goat skin for a stiffer leather. First choice was kangaroo but the importing tax into canada is too much.

[mrtreat32]

Im not sure if hermes uses stiffeners (probably not plastic at least) so it could be just two pieces of leather stitched together for more stiffness. So maybe thats how it holds shape in bags?

I have seen barenia used in hermes goods and its stiff and holds shape like vegtan since its combination tan of veg and chrome plus aniline dyed.

I may have to look at french goat skin for a stiffer leather. First choice was kangaroo but the importing tax into canada is too much.

I was gonna say maybe it is 2 pieces stitched together in most cases. And maybe they do that for the wallets as well? Or at least a folded seam to help stiffen the edges. Problem is Im starting to make orders to sell and if pieces often have to be doubled up it is going to cost me way too much in material to make any decent profit after all the labor and everything else

I don't have french goat but I just received a order of sokoto goat and I love working with it so far. It is a bit stiffer than the box calf and holds its shape pretty well. Even that though I can't Imagine using for the shell of a wallet. I made a simple card holder with it today and used a piece of thicker chromexcel for the back so it would be sturdy. I will post a picture of the goat when I have a minute..

If anyone has tips on using these types of french calf leathers and how to go about making them sturdy enough for most projects I would love to hear any advice.

[mrtreat32]

http://imgur.com/Wu4mncm,DjLfAtr,bj7IPS3

should be 3 images. The goat you can see in the background. Red, grey, navy, and yellow.

[DavidL]

http://imgur.com/Wu4mncm,DjLfAtr,bj7IPS3

should be 3 images. The goat you can see in the background. Red, grey, navy, and yellow.

You can always use polyester or a cheaper leather for the inside.

Is the calf leather from france not able to make the same wallet from that link without being too sloppy?

[mrtreat32]

You can always use polyester or a cheaper leather for the inside.

Is the calf leather from france not able to make the same wallet from that link without being too sloppy?

You would be able to make the front pockets from it the same with I did here with the goat but for the back I can't imagine it holding its shape going in and out of a pocket. Maybe in a purse where it doesn't get as much friction would be ok.

This goat one I also have a piece of thicker chromexcel on the back.. its 5oz or so horsehide but I skive the edges of it down to about 3.5oz. otherwise it doesn't seem like it would be sturdy enough using goat throughout.