How To Slow It Down...

[pcox]

Trox how long does it take to ruin the disc ? I put vaseline on my cork/rubber disc a long time ago and it hasn't failed yet. It will really take the grab out of it and it will still lock up solid to sew at full speed.

[Hi Im Joe]

So I tried to re-thread the thing and now I can't get the hook to take up the thread again. God its frustrating.

[dentat2]

another trick i used until i got the hang of my clutch. i put some styrofoam blocks under the pedal so i couldnt press it all the way down. that at least will keep it from running away from you too much

[Hi Im Joe]

another trick i used until i got the hang of my clutch. i put some styrofoam blocks under the pedal so i couldnt press it all the way down. that at least will keep it from running away from you too much

That's a freakin great idea. Definitely doing something like that.

Btw...I got it working again. Phew.

[Trox]

Hi Joe,

Your clutch plate might be used up and its possible to get replacements. The brake on these motors should kick in when you let of the pedal or heel the pedal (depended of how it is adjusted). I mostly replace my clutch motors with servos (Efka`s and one Cobra), but I still have a couple machines with Clutch/speed reducers. One of them is a new low-speed 4 pole 600 w clutch motor; this is a very good motor and its easy to control at slow speeds. I had others that are totally uncontrollable, so yours might be one like that. If you un hook the connection from the pedal, you can see how the brake engages. It`s adjustable on the pulley end of the motor. There might be two screws; one for the brake and another for the pitman arm`s return spring. Try out some different settings. To find out if your clutch needs a new friction plate, you better try a good one and see if its any different.

Hi Pcox,

its against my better knowledge to put oil/fat on a friction plate. I can`t tell you how much or when you damages it, only that you will loose friction. It will soak in to your plate and you never get it of again. Sometimes it will form a hard slippery surface and your clutch will start slipping. You needed it to slip a bit more and then took very little on. You succeeded against every advices, but personally I would not risk it.

Well, thats perhaps not that big a risk when people trow these after you now a days.

I have some old ones laying around, I could donate one if anybody locally needed one (V single and V, 3 Ph. They are to heavy to ship abroad)

Thanks

Tor

[Hi Im Joe]

Hi Joe,

Your clutch plate might be used up and its possible to get replacements. The brake on these motors should kick in when you let of the pedal or heel the pedal (depended of how it is adjusted). I mostly replace my clutch motors with servos (Efka`s and one Cobra), but I still have a couple machines with Clutch/speed reducers. One of them is a new low-speed 4 pole 600 w clutch motor; this is a very good motor and its easy to control at slow speeds. I had others that are totally uncontrollable, so yours might be one like that. If you un hook the connection from the pedal, you can see how the brake engages. It`s adjustable on the pulley end of the motor. There might be two screws; one for the brake and another for the pitman arm`s return spring. Try out some different settings. To find out if your clutch needs a new friction plate, you better try a good one and see if its any different.

Hi Pcox,

its against my better knowledge to put oil/fat on a friction plate. I can`t tell you how much or when you damages it, only that you will loose friction. It will soak in to your plate and you never get it of again. Sometimes it will form a hard slippery surface and your clutch will start slipping. You needed it to slip a bit more and then took very little on. You succeeded against every advices, but personally I would not risk it.

Well, thats perhaps not that big a risk when people trow these after you now a days.

I have some old ones laying around, I could donate one if anybody locally needed one (V single and V, 3 Ph. They are to heavy to ship abroad)

Thanks

Tor

Thanks for the tips! It is totally uncontrollable now. I'll have to take a look and see if I can adjust the brake. The motor is a Singer S-463161.

Here's a photo:

alackofcolor@gmail.com

[Trox]

Thanks for the tips! It is totally uncontrollable now. I'll have to take a look and see if I can adjust the brake. The motor is a Singer S-463161.

Here's a photo:

alackofcolor@gmail.com

Hi Joe,

yes I know them and I have a couple of them laying around too. Its very old and very weak. One Hp (horse power) is 746 watt and 1/3 HP is only 248 watt. Even if it was brand new thats not enough to power your machine true leather. It will struggle all the time and then be uncontrollable. You better find something in the range of 600 to 750 watt. I have a inexpensive Chinese Cobra digital servo motor on my Pfaff 345 machine, 145$. The Pfaff 345 is a medium triple feed in the same class as your Adler 67. (My Adler 67 now sold, sewed true 11 mm. bridle leather with that motor) The motor is more than strong enough with out any speed reducer.

Then you have the Family FESM-550 types of analog servo motors. I have seen them from 90 to 150$, I have not tried them because they do not come in 220V. However, I have heard good things about them. You will not find a cheap servo motors with perfect speed controls like on expensive Efka`s and Ho Sing motors. Then you get what you pay for, a Efka cost nearly ten times more too. With enough power the motor will always be more controllable, clutch or servo. I will echo what others have told you, buy your self a Chinese servo.Thats better than a clutch/speed-reducer, saves energy too. Read up on them in the forum, all the member dealer sell them.

Good luck

Tor

[Wishful]

Put a tennis ball under the pedal to slow it down some.

[Hi Im Joe]

Hi Joe,

yes I know them and I have a couple of them laying around too. Its very old and very weak. One Hp (horse power) is 746 watt and 1/3 HP is only 248 watt. Even if it was brand new thats not enough to power your machine true leather. It will struggle all the time and then be uncontrollable. You better find something in the range of 600 to 750 watt. I have a inexpensive Chinese Cobra digital servo motor on my Pfaff 345 machine, 145$. The Pfaff 345 is a medium triple feed in the same class as your Adler 67. (My Adler 67 now sold, sewed true 11 mm. bridle leather with that motor) The motor is more than strong enough with out any speed reducer.

Then you have the Family FESM-550 types of analog servo motors. I have seen them from 90 to 150$, I have not tried them because they do not come in 220V. However, I have heard good things about them. You will not find a cheap servo motors with perfect speed controls like on expensive Efka`s and Ho Sing motors. Then you get what you pay for, a Efka cost nearly ten times more too. With enough power the motor will always be more controllable, clutch or servo. I will echo what others have told you, buy your self a Chinese servo.Thats better than a clutch/speed-reducer, saves energy too. Read up on them in the forum, all the member dealer sell them.

Good luck

Tor

Thanks man! I've read a lot of threads on here about sewing machines and you offer great advice in them all. Thanks for taking the time to educate a noob.

[Trox]

Thank you Joe, you are welcome. Thats what this forum is all about, to help each other. I have learn allot here too.

Sometimes i wish members would be better to post about bad products, like faults on machines and tools. Its allot of good feedback here and not so much of bad ones. Often when somebody breaks the ice and complains about a product, many others follows with the same problem. In the mean time to many others buy that same faulty product. I have seen this a number of times here. Nobody gains on this, nor the seller or the customer. I think that in general Europeans complains more often than US Citizens. Or am I wrong.

Thanks

Tor