Machine Sewing Close To An Edge

[Tallbald]

In sewing my first men's billfold from 5-6 ounce veg tan on my Cowboy 3500 I ran into trouble. As designed, the wallet needed stitching within about 1/8 inch of the edge. On the top, the stitch looked nice. But when I removed the sewn layers from the machine the bottom had wandered off the edge of the material and ruined the piece. OK. So I'm learning the limits of my machine.

How close should I be able to stitch to the un-supported edge of something on my new machine? I suppose thicker leather would not give this trouble, but I also know I see thin leather items machine sewn very close to an edge. Perhaps I should be cutting the pieces larger, sewing as needed then trimming the leather to within 1/8 inch? Some sewing techniques that work for me with fabric just don't seem to be transferring to leather.

Thanks for suggestions. Don.

Edited July 14, 2014 by Tallbald

[Wizcrafts]

Pictures of the top and bottom stitches would help.

I use an edge guide and press my wallets against it as I sew. I also fold the back tightly over the interior and tape it down with 1/4" wide Venture Tape. Nothing moves this way.

Did you run off any test stitches first? Maybe the upper or lower, or both tensions need adjustments.

[Hi Im Joe]

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

[electrathon]

If you are not rolling the edge on the wallet leave all of the layers too long/untrimmed. Sew, then trim to size.

[Trox]

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

[Wizcrafts]

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

All of my wallets thus far have the backs folded over the interior by a solid 1/4 inch, or slightly more. I use 2oz pigskin mostly, for the entire construction. These are not fancy carved or stamped wallets, but smooth backed functional ones like you would buy at J.C. Penny or Macy's.

When I make a stamped wallet, the edges are usually left unfolded, but dyed with shoe sole edge dye. If veg-tan worked back is to be folded over the interior, I skive the edges in about 3/8 inches all the way around.

[Wizcrafts]

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

Venture Tape is double-sided basting tape for leather, sold by Wawak.com, a US based tailors' supply company. It is available in 1/4 and 1/2 inch widths, on 60 yard rolls. I buy this tape, as well as most of my zippers and 1 ounce patcher spools of nylon thread from Wawak.

Edited July 14, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[Trox]

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

[Wizcrafts]

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

This tape is aggressive and can gum up lesser quality needles. Only use it with compound feed walking foot machines, or dual feed, as long as there is an inside presser foot around the needle. Patchers have trouble sewing through Venture Tape.

I use titanium coated needles on my walking foot and patcher machines. This reduces the sticking when sewing through the tape.

Unfortunately, system 794 needles don't seem to be available yet with titanium coating. When they are, I will switch over 100%.

Mother Superior (Bob Purcell @ Superior Threads) turned me on to these needles. Embroiderers and quilters use them, as do some factory sewers. Made for better heat dissipation, they also help sew through basting tapes and glued items. However, they do cost more than regular steel needles.

[Trox]

Perhaps I need to chance my needles then and not the tape. I will try these needles my Norwegian supplier has them; "Groz Beckert

San-6 Gebedur": but I don't know in which system yet.

Do silicon lube help anything?

[Tallbald]

Interesting and helpful responses. I do not roll over the edge at all. It appears that the needle is simply piercing the top layer of leather then the bottom layer, which I guess is un-supported is mashing down into the open area of the bottom mechanism. The only fix I can see is to cut the material oversize, sew it farther back from the ege, then trim as Electrathon has suggested. I'm learning each time I sew, and as I said before, learning that machine sewing fabric is not completely like sewing leather. Thanks again all. Don

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Kind of an odd ball thing to jump in with, but a lot of these machines that sew close to the edge like this where we are 1/8" are being sewn in production with machines that have choppers, a knife mechanism that cuts as well as sews the material, kind of like a serger or overlock, but for a lock stitch.

See attached image for an example of this style machine

[Trox]

That was a nice machine Greg. I seen them selling special plates and foot set for the DA 767 machine with a edge knife on. Its a small video on Kwokhing.com on how it works. Perhaps you have these parts to. Can be a labor saving device for sure. I saw a you tube video with such foot installed on a Adler 105 too.

Tor

[Andrew Chee]

How thick is the material that you are trying to sew? What type of leather is it? What I've found is that these large machines don't really sew nicely close to the edge if the leather is too soft. They're made for heavy leathers. I had some similar issues sewing straps. The problem is that these machines have big presser feet and feed dogs and the leather can get mashed into the food dog slot. For wallets you really should use a smaller machine. If that's not possible, you can try using the slotted plate. That removes the feed dog and has a much smaller opening so your leather won't smash down as much. Just remember to increase your stitch length to compensate for the lack of feed dog.

Andrew

[Tallbald]

I was using 5-6 ounce veg tanned "Craftsman" leather (Hermann Oak), two layers. I'm going to try again this evening. Don

[Trox]

HI Tallbald,

what Andrew says is right, these machines was original made to sew heavy industrial fabrics. I have lowered the feed dog on my 441 to about 0.9 to 1 mm (over the plate). The Juki manual says 1,4 mm. and thats way to high for leather work. Especially when you sewing reins close to the edge. When the feed dog pushes the edge up to much, it makes the needle exit outside the leather edge.

I can also use my slotted harness plate to eliminate this problem. However, the setup I like the best is a smooth feed dog, with a smooth standard plate and harness feet`s. And of course a drop down roller guide. Lower your feed dog its the easiest solution to this problem.

Use a caliper or a correct thickness leather piece to adjust it.

(Juki recommend removable locktite on the feed dog screw so it might be a bit hard to unscrew, I believe Bob K. uses it too)

Good luck

Tor

[electrathon]

I was using 5-6 ounce veg tanned "Craftsman" leather (Hermann Oak), two layers. I'm going to try again this evening. Don

Wanted to comment on your statement, slightly off topic.

"Craftsman Oak" is a Tandy leather, the name is likely to make people believe they are buying Herman Oak leather rather than leather imported from South America. It is not Herman Oak leather. I believe this slight of hand is likely one of the reasons that people comment that they tried Herman Oak leather and did not find it to be any better than the import leather they were using. If you are content with the import leather, I am happy for you. If you want better, there is Herman Oak ( and Wickett and Craig).

[LeatherLegion]

I just added a new picture in my gallery along with a small description of few mods I did to my CB 4500 that allows me to sew close to the edge even on light leather...2ply of 3-4oz

[Andrew Chee]

I just added a new picture in my gallery along with a small description of few mods I did to my CB 4500 that allows me to sew close to the edge even on light leather...2ply of 3-4oz

Cool solution. Where did you get the parts made. We're they expensive?

Andrew

[Trox]

Thank you Aaron for pointing that out.

Not that I usually shop there much. Nevertheless, I have seen they sell several products with names that sound just like a famous good product. I bought some "Pure Neatfoot oil" from them and got "Pure Dingo assoil" instead.

I was recommended that product, but I`m sure they meant the good one from another supplier. I stick to the Danish gold quality leather oil instead, until I get hold of the right type.

Hi LeatherLegion,

nice mod on your Cowboy 4500. Is it a modified slotted plate or is it custom made from scratch? It reminds me of the flat plate on my good old backup; Adler 5-27.

I use my slightly modified 441 stirrup plate in such situations, its lowered a bit to gain footlift. (And get more support for the foot). I think the original plate are unnecessary high. We where discussing these plates in an other topic and Leatherkind made this stirrup plate on his 3D printer. He sent me one to try out and it actually works well. Its a very good method to test out attachments like this before you make the real thing. However, the plastic is very strong so it would last for a good while too.

I am sorry for the Off topic, its kind of related to the original topic.

Thanks

Tor

[Tallbald]

What I'm using is indeed Hermann Oak craftsman leather. Or so it says on the Springfield Leather website where I ordered it. Don