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asbandr

How To Get A High Gloss Smooth Finish

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I've been making holsters for a few months and am happy with the finished look, but I was wondering how to give them that high gloss smooth finish. After assembling and dying I buff them and apply super shene but can never seem to get more than an eggshell like finish. What am I doing wrong?

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We aint got no pictures, so toughta tell. The oil dyes will buff up to a pretty good shine all alone, so very possibly that super sheen crap?

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Sorry, I guess I should include a pic...

post-55032-0-21311200-1410049551_thumb.j

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Pitch the super sheen, . . . go to Resolene, . . . mix it 50/50 with water, . . . play with it enough and you can use it for a mirror practically.

It is a far superior finish in just about every way.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Make the Polish

In a glass quart canning jar, add 1 cup of oil (vegetable, coconut, olive, etc.) and add about 1/2 cup of beeswax--preferably grated or crumbled. Place the jar in a double pan of hot water over low heat and allow it to warm until the paraffin has melted. Remove the jar from the hot water and add 1/2 cup of vodka. Stir well and cover until ready to use.

Apply the Polish

Apply a dab of the soft polish to the floor with a clean, dry rag. Start with about 1/2 tsp. for a 2-foot-square area, and rub in a circular motion to spread the wax. Allow the wax to set for a few minutes before buffing it with a separate clean rag to bring it to a nice shine.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/way_5397378_homemade-floor-polish.html

:)

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While we're on floor polish, some people swear by Mop 'n Glo diluted 50/50 with water. It's a very similar finish to Resolene. You will find that the eco-flo products are fine for what they are and have their uses, but the finishes aren't the best. Super sheen approaches glossy, satin sheen is nice when you don't want glossy. But Resolene is better. It can be very shiny, and one of the more water resistant finishes around. Red's wax and oil solution should work well too. I use something similar without the alcohol (Vodka's for drinkin', son) for the back of leather, but haven't yet tried it for an overall finish. I also make mine in the crock pot over a couple of hours so that I don't have to have the stove on and watch it closely.

Hope that helps

Bill

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are you buffing to a shine before you apply the finish? After the leather for my wallets dry for 24 hours I buff them with cotton rag untill they sparkle, nothing added at all. I actually apply mink oil to tone it down to a warm glow. I wonder if you're missing this step?

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...After the leather for my wallets dry for 24 hours...

This is likely the root of the problem Asbandr, most finishes will soak too far in and dilute if your dyes and oils haven't cured/dried well. Let the piece sit for 24 hours after dying and oiling, buff with a rag until it has a slight burnish to it and then apply the finish. The new Super Sheen is garbage but the old version of it (the changed formulas about 3 years ago) was awesome. Resolene, as mentioned is better. For either finish, use a soft cloth and apply a coat that has been cut 50/50 with water. Wait until the surface looks dry (it isn't yet) and apply a second coat. This is the penetrating coat that will close up the pores. Wait a few hours/overnight and apply another thin coat or two. Just like furniture finishes, each time you let it dry overnight it seals the pores a bit more allowing the finish to build. The build up of layers is what will give you the shine, and will last longer than one fast thick coat.

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Can someone shine light on how Resolene holds up better than Atom wax or super sheen?

I also hear that atom wax is a finish and can't prevent dye from bleeding off and resolene is a sealant that locks in the dye. Is this true?

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Atom wax is just that, . . . a wax finish. Kiwi shoe polish is another wax finish, . . . so you have something to compare it to. Both give a fairly protective coat, . . . look really good when first done, . . . but will scuff and wear off in time.

Resolene is an acrylic finish, . . . similar to the clear coat finish on your new car, . . . only not quite as sophisticated, . . . and not as hard.

Resolene will lock out UV rays, most moisture, most sweat, most other liquids, . . . and will seal in the dye. I have never had a "rub off" problem with Resolene.

Most people I have found who dislike it, . . . simply have never taken the time to learn how to apply it properly. There are many ways, . . . but if it is done in a sloppy manner, . . . not cut with water, . . . "messed with" too soon, . . . or a few other things, . . . you will not like the finish. Practice with it, . . . play with it, . . . learn to use it, . . . and you will like it. It is not THE "do all" or "finish all" product we would all like, . . . it is lousy for purses in my estimation, . . . but it does have many uses, . . . I use it exclusively for the belts and holsters I sell.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I use a smooth bone tool and polish the leather to get a high-gloss sheen.

I burnish after dyeing, just when it is almost dry. You want the leather to be very slightly moist so that it can be molded, so you can rub out all of the rubbing marks. The end results is a very smooth, glossy piece of leather.

Then I apply a small amount of Renaissance Wax and it buffs out to a super high gloss.

The image below shows the start of the burnishing process.

The other image shows a burnished leather cover for a sword scabbard that was in the making.

post-46246-0-17952300-1412112233_thumb.j

post-46246-0-14083700-1412112388_thumb.j

Edited by Harry Marinakis

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I use a smooth bone tool and polish the leather to get a high-gloss sheen.

I burnish after dyeing, just when it is almost dry. You want the leather to be very slightly moist so that it can be molded, so you can rub out all of the rubbing marks. The end results is a very smooth, glossy piece of leather.

Then I apply a small amount of Renaissance Wax and it buffs out to a super high gloss.

The image below shows the start of the burnishing process.

The other image shows a burnished leather cover for a sword scabbard that was in the making.

Thanks for sharing, going to try that the next time I dye my leather. Your technique is similar to how they do it in the tanneries.

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I use the old deer antler thing. Natural leather lightly cased, then burnished after the exterior gets the almost dry look.

post-36503-0-33521000-1412123172_thumb.j

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can a glossy acrylic resolene finish be flexible? can I dye a piece a piece of leather black, apply numerous layers acrylic resolene for a very high gloss finish and still have that piece of leather not "crimple" when it bends?

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are you buffing to a shine before you apply the finish? After the leather for my wallets dry for 24 hours I buff them with cotton rag untill they sparkle, nothing added at all. I actually apply mink oil to tone it down to a warm glow. I wonder if you're missing this step?

Mink oil is bad for your leather goods.

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