Turned Edges - Corners?

[DavidL]

2:20 -

- pleated edge. Is there any tips you have for doing this?Is this primarily for curved corners not 90 degree corners.

00:35 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SG9cbDiaMwc - In this video it is 3D form, the way I've seen it is 2d, exactly the same technique. What is the technical name? How do you keep the (leather) point of the corner from bulging out and not have the raw leather show on the front of the piece and keep it on the back unseen (If that make sense).

3:43 -

- Similar to the second video. I've seen this more commonly on book binding corners, without trimming the corners first.

Which way works the best in your opinion for bags and wallets that are chrome tan and have turned edges? Which way do you prefer and why?

Edited September 30, 2014 by DavidL

[CustomDoug]

It helps to have that corner leather skived thin as possible, and then after the leather is folded over and stuck down, gently work over the area with a hammer and bone folder around the curve.

Doug C

[CustomDoug]

Hey David, check out this video, it explains pretty well how it's done. Watch from 4:10 to the end... unless I'm misunderstanding your question. I'd say if you are laminating two pieces together (flesh to flesh), the hammering would be of utmost importance.

Doug C

[DavidL]

thanks doug.

[Bob Blea]

Going back to the first video, the edges look nice and the bag looks nice but to me it seems odd that they don't stitch the parts together, they are only glued. I'm not a high end bag or purse maker but seems like a quality bag should be stitched too.

[DavidL]

It wasn't until you pointed it out that I noticed it. Its a bit odd.

They definitely have the machinery to do it, so it must of been a design choice.

May have something to do with the alligator skin being puffed by heat in the previous step. The bag would look entirely different if it was stitched as the front and back won't have that curved shape to it and the skin would be compressed by stitching on all sides.

I also found out the reason they did the cuts for the red alligator bag instead of pleats, which is pretty straightforward once Im thinking about it. The alligator skin has no stretch like chrome tan to be turned over and pleated. Pleating is the way most manufacturers do their turned edges I believe as it requires no cuts and cutting the edges like the alligator bag is only for exotics. On long curves cuts are made to allow the leather to curve.

Im going to be continuing my making of a pair of shoe uppers that I started a few months ago. Does any one have experience with doing curves and turn edges for a piece that isn't being turned over another piece of material? I may end up making a thin ( 4mm strip) of material and glue it onto the outline that the edges are going to be turned and turn the piece of leather over the strip as a guideline. Any other thoughts would help.

[CustomDoug]

All I can say it that they must have a supreme confidence in the "cement" they are using. I personally like the minimalist effect this technique gives.

Doug C

[Macca]

on video 2, no need to hide the join, the metal corner piece goes over the top of the material so hides all the joins (BTW, thats plastic coated canvas they use, not leather)

Otherwise its pretty much just down to skiving the edge thin enough

[DavidL]

Thanks.

Im curious if any leather manufacturers choose to do the number 2 video method on leather goods for turned edges. The only times I have seen it used is in that video and bookbinders who miter the corners 45 degrees (using paper/fabric) and of paper box making, again using paper.

On tight corner curves I've decided to use pleating and on curves to cut relief slits.

But on 90 degree corners I can't decide to use pleating or to use the book binder technique of cutting a 45 degree cut and fold over (pic below).

With the pleating on 90 degree corner its difficult with so much overlap of material in the corner (might not even be possible or would take a lot of precise cutting out the excess). The book binder technique there is two layers and can get thick, also may not work with leather too good.

Im leaning with book binder technique and then skiving down the edge for those 90 degree corners.

Going to try them all though.

All I can say it that they must have a supreme confidence in the "cement" they are using. I personally like the minimalist effect this technique gives.

Doug C

Im going to go with contact cement this time around to try to get a better hold. The Pva glue hardly provides hold until its dry.