Edge Folding Suede

[Leathersaurus]

Hi there guys,

Just had a quick question about folding suede for a nice edge. I've had a quick look around and I can't seem to find any information on better/proper ways to fold edges over before stitching a piece of leather on top. I've attached two images of some bracers I'm working on with a suede liner, now I wanted to fold to suede over on the edges and glue/stitch the leather on top for a nice clean edge but I'm having trouble folding it around the curves and corners.

Is there a 'proper' way to cut/fold the suede to get it around those curves, as it doesn't seem to stretch a huge amount. The white card is the template for the leather to go on top.

Thanks for your time!

-David

[DavidL]

I haven't perfected this type of folding yet. The way I find works best is if the leather is thinned 50 percent by hand skiving with a skife on the upper portion of the line and the bottom portion. It is almost always better to use a inner piece like 1-2 ounce vegetable tan, chrome or thick canvas that is the exact same size as the paper template so that the larger piece has something to curve around. Shoe makers use adhesive backed linen tape or something similar to that to just outline the line and so that the piece has strength.

From the picture I can see you are cutting too close to the edge. The more cuts you make the more it will allow the piece to curve ( space them evenly). The corners can also be pleated to create a seamless corner. Extra attention when skiving the corners should be done.

[Grey Drakkon]

I agree with David, that suede needs to be thinner, and basically treated as if it were fabric. You have the basic idea right in that you should be cutting out triangles to remove bulk, but cut them before you fold the suede over (unless you were trying to figure out where the most tension is) typically every 1/2" to 1" gets a triangle cut out depending on the severity of the curve.

[Leathersaurus]

I haven't perfected this type of folding yet. The way I find works best is if the leather is thinned 50 percent by hand skiving with a skife on the upper portion of the line and the bottom portion. It is almost always better to use a inner piece like 1-2 ounce vegetable tan, chrome or thick canvas that is the exact same size as the paper template so that the larger piece has something to curve around. Shoe makers use adhesive backed linen tape or something similar to that to just outline the line and so that the piece has strength.

From the picture I can see you are cutting too close to the edge. The more cuts you make the more it will allow the piece to curve ( space them evenly). The corners can also be pleated to create a seamless corner. Extra attention when skiving the corners should be done.

I agree with David, that suede needs to be thinner, and basically treated as if it were fabric. You have the basic idea right in that you should be cutting out triangles to remove bulk, but cut them before you fold the suede over (unless you were trying to figure out where the most tension is) typically every 1/2" to 1" gets a triangle cut out depending on the severity of the curve.

Thanks very much for the reply guys, I can see where I need to change up on a few things, being careful with my edges and making those triangles a bit more uniform and cut more of them. It is possible to hand skive suede at all, or it is that really a no go area?

Thanks again guys, great help