Start And Stop On Holster Question

[Red Cent]

Is it a decorative stitch or is it a stress stitch? Would the back side be seen?

Edited November 15, 2014 by Red Cent

[JLSleather]

Really? You got useful info from those videos? For a different machine, even. Hmmm..

When I thought about a new machine, EVERYBODY sent me to those videos. When I bought that same machine, people sent me to it AGAIN. Not sure if they even know why.

It's good to know where to put the oil, and that guy did a good job of showing exactly the way to thread the thing. And someone who didn't already know that, I could see that bit about not skipping stitches in the turn could be very helpful (though, maybe not 1/2 hour of it).

Is there something I missed in there? I'm not being a wise-ass, but if there was more to it I didn't catch it.

BUT.... to your original question.... With a skipped stitch, a fella "could" back the thread out a inch or two, then use that hanging end to backstitch. Then just pull some thread off the spool and stitch in where the empty holes are (which I'm purdy sure is why Red asks if its structural stitchin').

My preference, on the rare times this happens, is to simply cut the stitching for the entire project, stick it back in the machine, and track the same holes. As long as you haven't moved the stitch length, this should be simple. Oh, one note here: keep an eye on the knot position when you start, to make sure the tension isn't different due to the fact there's already a hole.

Now, did you stitch the Glock holster yet?

[cleanview]

I really learned a lot from those videos. Keep in mind I was looking at them from not knowing nothing, so they were a wealth of information.

Red - the back would be seen and I would not call it a stress point.

To re sew it would be easy but I really cant imagine the needle going i every hole?

[BHPshooter]

Cleanview, I have the same machine, and have dealt with some of the same issues, like having trouble getting the stitching on the back of the holster to look good when I'd back-stitch, and missing stitches on turns.

I can't say I've completely solved the backstitching issue to my satisfaction, but I have figured out a work-around (which others have mentioned here). When a stitch ends where it began, I just sew over the first 2 or 3 stitches to lock the stitch.

I've since changed thread and needle sizes, and I really should try get the reverse function figured out. You're right, though -- it was frustrating.

For corners, I watch to make sure that the shuttle hook has caught the top thread before making the turn. I leave the bobbin cover off so that it's easier to see in there. Once you learn how high the needle rises before the shuttle hook catches the top thread, you won't have to stop an look so often... You'll just know.

[cleanview]

mine does not even have a bobbin cover???

I know about where the needle has to come to.......i aint real clear what is happening just know it is the rite time. I wait till the needle is just about up out of the leather, sometime it makes it out even. My skipped stitch I believe happened when I was making a gradual curve. AS I understand, when the presser foot (middle piece?) is down I can gentle work a curve. I must have just missed a beet.

Over all, I am astonished at how simple it is. I need to do some tests and just watch the motion of the bobbin. I dont have it real clear in my mind exactly what it is doing.

Thanks all again. I am sure there will be more conversation.

[BHPshooter]

Tension could also be an issue. If it happened on a gradual curve and not a sharper angle, I kinda wonder if it isn't a tension issue.

There is very little in the paperwork about all of that, and I had a hell of a time getting it adjusted until I ready a thread in the sewing machine section about recalibrating the tension. Another complication was the fact that I use both white and black thread, and both require different tension settings.

You'll get it figured out, it will just take time. If I can do it, anybody can!

[cleanview]

They are not believers in instructions thats for sure.

To be clear......this is my tension setting for the top thread

And the bobbin is where the bottom tension is set?

[cleanview]

They are not believers in instructions thats for sure.

To be clear......this is my tension setting for the top thread

And the bobbin is where the bottom tension is set?

[JLSleather]

I got no instructions for that machine, but isn't the top tension set up above?

And I agree.. for a couple THOUSAND dollars, you'd think there would be a current manual. Ten $$ hand tools from Tandy come with instructions, or at least a picture...

Edited November 16, 2014 by JLSleather

[Red Cent]

The missed stitch in the curve can be, generally, one of two problems. And they are related. You are "outrunning the stitch" with the curve. If you have 4-5 to an inch, a curve must be taken slowly if it is an acute curve. Shorten the stitch (more per inch) and you can make a sharper curve successfully.

When I first started, I hated the look of the back stitch. Now, I generally will turn the wheel by hand to perfectly place the needle in the hole to get a clean looking backstitch.

I guess it is because the way I have set the tension, I have no problems with going back and forth with white or black thread without touching the tension adjustments. I use polyester black and white. Some time ago DirtClod suggested the poly and I have used it since.

[cleanview]

JLS -- guess I tightened the wrong thing. What did I tighten? At the same time that I tightened the wrong adjustment I switched from 207 to 277 so I guess that could have tightened it up or it was just my imagination.

Red ---- that bit about shortening for the curve is priceless, I guess after a time or two I could know just how far to turn, I dont think i would be comfortable just hand bumping the lever though I guess that could be done as well

I sat and watched the movement of the bobbin and think I have it understood now, AM I CORRECT that once the hook picks up the thread and start moving it is then the opportune time to left the lever and make a sharp turn??

And I am unclear as to how the locking the stitched in works. I am supposing that it is the reverse action that going over backwards locks them into place (still unclear in my mind). If that is the case then would just completing the circle and passing over the first 3-5 stitches "lock" them??

Again appreciate the time and patience to help me.

[JLSleather]

It would be difficult - to say the least - to keep a good eye on the bobbin and the corner at the same time. Simply put, the needle needs to go all the way down AND START BACK UP before making the turn.

As for tensions, basically you're running bigger thread through the same hole, which would logically be tighter. So, IN THEORY if you switched the bobbin AND the top thread size together, the tension shouldn't require much adjustment, if any. Think of a scale, and then add 10 lbs to each side. Still balanced, yes?

Other hand, for example... if you left the 207 in the bobbin, and changed the top to 277, then you might find it a bit tighter in the top (which "should" result in a bottom thread pulled up a bit too far). In this case, a guy might turn that top tension BACK (likely counterclockwise on yours). Turn it like 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then test it. It don't take that much, with a new spring in there (which yours would be).

By way of a low-rent TIP: Some folks might put a dab of color on the thumbscrew so you know how much it turned. Personally, I generally remember, but a feller COULD ask the wife for a drop of nail polish. Actually, that's probably not politically correct any more --- some 'fellas" got nail polish too

Edited November 16, 2014 by JLSleather

[BHPshooter]

I guess it is because the way I have set the tension, I have no problems with going back and forth with white or black thread without touching the tension adjustments. I use polyester black and white. Some time ago DirtClod suggested the poly and I have used it since.

Maybe that's the thing -- I'm using Nylon. I'll have to try Poly.

JLS -- guess I tightened the wrong thing. What did I tighten? At the same time that I tightened the wrong adjustment I switched from 207 to 277 so I guess that could have tightened it up or it was just my imagination.

Red ---- that bit about shortening for the curve is priceless, I guess after a time or two I could know just how far to turn, I dont think i would be comfortable just hand bumping the lever though I guess that could be done as well

I sat and watched the movement of the bobbin and think I have it understood now, AM I CORRECT that once the hook picks up the thread and start moving it is then the opportune time to left the lever and make a sharp turn??

And I am unclear as to how the locking the stitched in works. I am supposing that it is the reverse action that going over backwards locks them into place (still unclear in my mind). If that is the case then would just completing the circle and passing over the first 3-5 stitches "lock" them??

Again appreciate the time and patience to help me.

My understanding (flawed though it may be) is that both knobs affect thread tension. I know that had to fiddle with both dials to get things right -- the top knob alone didn't do it.

I also marked them with magic marker so that I can make sure exactly how much to change it when switching thread colors. I've noticed that the top knob tends to walk, so it needs to be watched fairly closely.