Why Is My Finished Color Running When It Gets Wet?

[Elle]

Hi! I'm a new user and new to leather working!

I'm lately just trying to figure out dyeing/staining/finishing methods and techniques for each different type.

Lately I encountered an issue.

I made a wallet and used Fiebings Dye. After a day of drying I applied Leather Sheen.

After another day, I picked up the wallet with wet fingers and the color is running off of the wallet. I'm looking for any ideas of why?

I thought the Leather Sheen was a protector and water repellent?? Please correct me if I am wrong.

I tried out a test piece with Dye's and Stains and it seems like the Dye's all run when in contact with water. (with and without the leather sheen on it) None of the stain's or all in one's ran except an Antique Gel from Tandy. Am I doing something wrong? Because this doesn't seem right!

Advice is appreciated!

[TwinOaks]

First of all, Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

Leather sheen is supposed to be a sealant. However, you may need to apply more than one coat to get the leather properly sealed. Also, depending on the type of dye that you use, you may need to buff the dyed project to get any unabsorbed solids off the face of the leather. Black (in many forms) is one of the worst colors for rub-off, or bleeding. Once it's buffed....it's not nearly so bad. So...how much buffing? Until there's no more dye coming off the surface. THEN apply your sealer, and do a couple of test pieces to see just how much you need.

If you aren't happy with the 'Sheen....I also recommend Resolene. And if a trip to the leather store isn't in order, you can use Mop-n-glo.

[SteelcityK9Cop]

I use Leather Sheen as a final wax ONLY and not a sealant. I seal the project with a 50/50 mix of Resolene and Water.

[TomG]

Note the key words... 50/50 Resolene... Same with the Mop-N-Glo.... 50/50 with water. And several thin coats, letting them dry between.

[Elle]

Note the key words... 50/50 Resolene... Same with the Mop-N-Glo.... 50/50 with water. And several thin coats, letting them dry between.

Note the key words... 50/50 Resolene... Same with the Mop-N-Glo.... 50/50 with water. And several thin coats, letting them dry between.

I use Leather Sheen as a final wax ONLY and not a sealant. I seal the project with a 50/50 mix of Resolene and Water.

First of all, Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

Leather sheen is supposed to be a sealant. However, you may need to apply more than one coat to get the leather properly sealed. Also, depending on the type of dye that you use, you may need to buff the dyed project to get any unabsorbed solids off the face of the leather. Black (in many forms) is one of the worst colors for rub-off, or bleeding. Once it's buffed....it's not nearly so bad. So...how much buffing? Until there's no more dye coming off the surface. THEN apply your sealer, and do a couple of test pieces to see just how much you need.

If you aren't happy with the 'Sheen....I also recommend Resolene. And if a trip to the leather store isn't in order, you can use Mop-n-glo.

Thank you all very much! I did some research online prior to this post where many people are swearing by the Resolene. I will have to give it a try.

I have attached a photo of the wallet - I used a thick layer of dye and then wiped it with a paper towel to get the streaky vintage look - which I love, however in the corner on the front, you will see around the bottom right edge where water has gotten (after all applications of dye and sheen). The color came off immediately on my thumb.

So I guess that leads me to ask......if I am going to apply the Resolene (diluted with water), can I just put it on top of the leather sheen that is currently there? Or do I need to remove it or buff it or light sandpaper or something first?

Thanks again!

[TwinOaks]

You can certainly test for 'rub-off', and if you get any then buff until there's none. Then seal the leather. A note on the process- When you put any sealant on the leather, there should be enough that you aren't "rubbing it off". Saturate the applicator, and use gentle, light pressure to wipe on the sealant. In the case of any of the acrylic waxes, I prefer to spray them on. The best method (by far, IMO) is the use of an airbrush to apply the resolene in a light mist. If you have a good enough pump style sprayer, you could use that, but it needs to be a really fine atomization.
As far as sand paper??? NOOOOOOO! it will permanently damage the grain side of the leather. If you are working on the flesh side, or with a split, then it wouldn't really be noticeable. Just use some good solvents - acetone, denatured alcohol, etc.,.....AND LOTS OF VENTILATION!