Restoring moisure and vitality to old abused leather.

[Curbstrap2]

Hi -

I need some suggestions for restoring the life and flexibility to an old, neglected ( but still sound) saddle. This saddle had been stored in a barn uncleaned for about 15 years. I welcome your suggestions.

[Leerwerker]

Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator!

[yaklady]

Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator!

I agree with Johan. I used Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator on a saddle just like the one you mentioned, and it worked great.

[Rawhide]

Would you have to clean it first with maybe some saddlesoap? Or can you just use the rejuvenator with no prep work?

Marlon

[bruce johnson]

Marlon, Everybody kind of has developed their own way of cleaning stuff, here's what works for me.

I'd clean it first. A lot of times these ones that have just sat around are covered with dust and petrified birdcrap. Physically knocking it off and brushing the dust with a soft bristle brush may be all that is required. If they have been greased up and are oozing that sticky spew, then a little soap of choice would be in order. I like Murphy's soap in lukewarm water about the best. Apply and work it with a soft brush, rinse and hit it again until the water runs clear.

I use Dr Jackson's some, especially on new stuff or stuff that is going to be used and exposed. It will leave a sort of greasy feel on top sometimes, and can rub off on clothes. I apply it to some pretty oiled up skirting and then melt in some Dr Jackson's for straps, tugs, and waterloops for rein ends especially. Makes for a nice looking and feeling harness type leather. I use it doctoring and saddle bags too. My favorite is Williams saddle dressing for older leather though. To me it just gives me a nicer feel when all is said and done, and especially for display kind of pieces. It leaves a light waxy topcoat that polishes up well.

[UKRay]

The cleaning advice had better come from experts in horse tack but I've been using Skidmores recently and can't praise it highly enough for restoration and finishing work.

It was designed to be used on saddles so I guess it should be perfect for your task although I have used it on all kinds of leather including some antique Spanish leather chair backs for a museum. I even use it to finish some of my hand dyed veg tan products.

www.skidmores.com will find you some online and you can be sure that Vince and Susan Skidmore will do everything they can to help. Nice genuine people and a superb product. Before you ask - they didn't pay me a penny to say that!

[Curbstrap2]

I posted this same question on another horse related site and someone suggested hot olive oil applied with a paint brush.

I have never heard of such a thing.

I was always taught to

#1) Never use hot oil on leather

and

#2) Never use food grade oil on leather because of its inherent tendancey to encourage mold.

Have I been living under a rock or is this a recommended technique?

[Leerwerker]

"hot", No! That will harden the leather as in Cuir Bouilli ...!

But oil, Yes! NOT mineral oil, but any plant or animal oil is good.

Cod Liver Oil is one of the main ingredients in dubbin, a century old leather conditioner - I have used and made dubbin myself and it works like a charm. No smell. In fact, guys on the Leather Chemists Forum told me that the traditional romantic smell of leather came from its treatment with various fish oils.

I have soaked a piece of leather in cod liver oil and after about an hour there was no sign of fish left in the smell.

Hope this helps.

[Wenny]

I prefer a light coat of the traditional Neatsfoot oil (pure, not the blended "Neatsfoot compound") for a base coat after a good wash with ph neutral saddlesoap, and once the oil has soaked in, then Dr Jacksons Hide Restorer or any good wax leather treatment. Stuff with beeswax is usually good, and the wax is what you need to bring up a shine. Oil won't shine.