Members kidinsky Posted December 6, 2014 Members Report Posted December 6, 2014 I have seen this quite often in Hermes products, belts, wallets and bags and in some other high end products. i have asked this question in some other forum and the answer i got is that it cannot achieved by saddle stitch, it's only possible by sewing machines. i understand the fundamental difference between hand stitching and sewing machines, and this effect can be achieved easily by sewing machines. but now i saw this customised Birkin with lining in a different color, and color of the thread on the lining side is different from the color of the thread on the outside to match the color of the lining. i don't believe this Birkin bag is stitched by using sewing machines, and the question comes back again, how to achieve this effect without using sewing machine? or they didn't use the thread of different colors when stitching, but dye the thread afterwards? Quote
Tree Reaper Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 They're using white for the bobbin thread and pink for the top thread, they meet in the middle of the layers. To do that by hand an automatic hand awl could be used to stitch the top thread and grab the bottom thread. Quote
Members Troy Burch Posted December 6, 2014 Members Report Posted December 6, 2014 You can sew it easy enough by pushing the needle with blue thread thru the hole and looping around the white thread and pulling the cross up in the middle of the leather the same as a machine stitch. A sewing awl might make it easier to grab and pull the bottom thread but unless your going to do a lot it may not be worth the trouble. Quote
Members Tramps Leatherworking Posted December 6, 2014 Members Report Posted December 6, 2014 That could be done by hand with two different color threads, but it would be a pain in the arse --- my guess is it is machine sewn, or hand sewn, then dyed... Quote ~Tramp~ Experientia magistra stultorum --- (Experience is the teacher of fools)
Members Macca Posted December 6, 2014 Members Report Posted December 6, 2014 That is machine stitched with a different coloured thread in the bobbin. Hermes use machines as well as hand stitching some parts. Quote
Members kidinsky Posted December 7, 2014 Author Members Report Posted December 7, 2014 (edited) That is machine stitched with a different coloured thread in the bobbin. Hermes use machines as well as hand stitching some parts. @Macca, I know Hermes use sewing machine for some of their products, but i am quite sure their iconic Birkin are purely hand stitched. and i don't believe that they will switch to sewing machines just because they want to use threads with two different colors. Think about it, you sacrificed the most valuable part of your product to achieve this effect, it's hard for me to accept it. Edited December 7, 2014 by kidinsky Quote
Members kidinsky Posted December 7, 2014 Author Members Report Posted December 7, 2014 @ That could be done by hand with two different color threads, but it would be a pain in the arse --- my guess is it is machine sewn, or hand sewn, then dyed... for me, dye after stitching is the only acceptable way of doing it without sacrificing the saddle stitch. then my question will be can you dye the thread after waxing? Usually, we wax the thread first, then stitch. if we need to dye the thread after stitching, is it even possible to dye the waxed thread? or you just have to sacrifice something, and it will be the waxing. but if you ask me to choose between sacrificing the saddle stitch and waxing, i think the answer is obvious. Quote
Members kidinsky Posted December 7, 2014 Author Members Report Posted December 7, 2014 You can sew it easy enough by pushing the needle with blue thread thru the hole and looping around the white thread and pulling the cross up in the middle of the leather the same as a machine stitch. A sewing awl might make it easier to grab and pull the bottom thread but unless your going to do a lot it may not be worth the trouble. either done by sewing machine or by this tool is the same for me, because we are sacrificing the saddle stitch. of course thread of one color on one side is a nice feature, but a Birkin without saddle stitch is not a real Birkin anymore. of course majority of the customer will not see any difference, but as a craftsman, the sacrifice is unacceptable. Quote
Members Macca Posted December 7, 2014 Members Report Posted December 7, 2014 @Macca, I know Hermes use sewing machine for some of their products, but i am quite sure their iconic Birkin are purely hand stitched. and i don't believe that they will switch to sewing machines just because they want to use threads with two different colors. Think about it, you sacrificed the most valuable part of your product to achieve this effect, it's hard for me to accept it. Handles etc are hand stitched to attach them, but most of the bag you have shown is machine stitched, 2 colour threading like that is only possible with two different threads, so done by machine. It is normal practice for them to machine stitch as much as possible on all the bags they produce, they didn't switch to a machine to stitch it with different colours, they always use a machine. Quote
Members kidinsky Posted December 7, 2014 Author Members Report Posted December 7, 2014 Handles etc are hand stitched to attach them, but most of the bag you have shown is machine stitched, 2 colour threading like that is only possible with two different threads, so done by machine. It is normal practice for them to machine stitch as much as possible on all the bags they produce, they didn't switch to a machine to stitch it with different colours, they always use a machine. I don't know where you got the idea that the Birkin bags are made by sewing machines, i didn't say all their products are made by hand stitching, i have seen some of the watch straps are made by sewing machine, but when it come to their iconic products, such as birkin or kelly bags, it's purely hand stitched. I have seen multiple videos on youtube and i have also personally seen their craftsman hand stitching kelly bag in at least two Hermes exhibitions, the making of Kelly and birkin bags does not involve using sewing machines. I am quite sure about it. i also have the chance to toss round several Birkin bags, i have observed closely every single detail of each bag, i am quite sure they use saddle stitch for the whole bag. I guess you saying Hermes use sewing machines as much as possible is only your assumption. Quote
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