Adler 30-1 Timing

[drunknpirate]

Sorry if this has been gone over before. I have read through the archives but am unable to find the info I need.

I have been servicing my own machines successfully for years but this machine is killing me. On all my machines the hook passes the needle scarf on the up stroke to pick up the thread loop and create a lock stitch. This is easily adjusted by two set screws on the drive shaft. With this 30-1 the hook is passing the needle shaft while still on the down stroke so there is no way the hook is gonna grab the thread since it under tension. I read a post about someones Adler 30 threading problems, very long post, and another adler owner said that their hook passes the needle while on just about the extent of the down stroke? I dont see how the machine would function correctly.

All the other post I have come across have ended with no answers.

So to sum up

1-The hook should cross the scarf on the up stroke correct?

2- Is the only way to do this by moving around the gears in the gear rack? seems very unlikely

[Constabulary]

I have a mechanics manual + a user guide - that should help you (direct downloads):

Adler 30-1 Mechanics Manual

Adler 30-1 User Guide

Edited December 7, 2014 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

1-The hook should cross the scarf on the up stroke correct?

The needle goes down - then it comes a up a tiny bit and stops for a moment and is forming the loop - then the hook is catching the loop and is pulling the thread around the hook - then needle is going up and builds the knot with the 2 threads.

2- Is the only way to do this by moving around the gears in the gear rack? seems very unlikely

No - your gears box has to be in a assembled correctly and the only way you can time the machine is the excenter at the end of the rack (right hand - not the gear box)

This is how your gear box should look when correctly assembled

Edited December 7, 2014 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

Look for a hole in the base on the front right side of the machine. If there is such a hole, you can insert a straight blade screw driver into an eccentric screw that moves the shaft that connects under the arm to the long rack gear. Unless the screw has rusted, or been Locktighted, it should turn freely. Doing so moves the shuttle. You'll want to either retard or advance the hook to arrive after the needle bottoms out then rises and stops. That is when the best loop is formed.

If you are unable to correct the timing using the eccentric screw adjustment, the racks may be misaligned with the driving gear. Compare yours to the photo Constabulary posted.

[drunknpirate]

The gear that you have a 56 on in the photo is different then mine. Mine has teeth all the way around. regardless, the machine looks like its movments are correct, just out of time.
Wiz,
I dont have a hole on the front. There is a threaded stud with a nut coming out the front and a hole in the back of the machine

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79a5f41b19f00000030O00AatGTZy0ct2IPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107949624520141208004730143.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79b111c91a900000030O00AatGTZy0ct2IPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107949624520141208004732047.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Any idea of what this machine is worth? If I over paid I still have time to return it. Its the head only, no stand. Has a chip in flywheel, thats about the only defect, well besides the timing

[Wizcrafts]

Once you get the timing problem corrected, it may be worth up to $500. You may have to replace the driving gear. Adler parts can be expensive! Otherwise, try dropping the racks and reposition the gear manually, to time it to the needle. Reinstall the racks so they move it in sync.

[Constabulary]

Your hole for adjusting the eccentric is on the backside (see your 2nd picture). The manual should give you good instructions. The picture of the gear box I posted is of an older 30-1. Yours seems to be one of the the latest models as it is more rectangular shaped and light Grey painted so it could bring more than $500 I think. If the chip in the flywheel is not to big it can be fixed with JB Weld or so.

[drunknpirate]

thanks guys I'll give it a try later. The machine is the grey boxier design. I rarely see the newer machines for sale used and I'm my hast to make an offer I didn't realize that the power stand was not included. The worse part is I don't remember new power stands costing so much!!! I may end up sending the whole thing back and waiting to buy a new machine

[Constabulary]

You can mount it on any table and add a servo motor. Don´t know what you have paid for it but when it was "cheap" I´d keep it as the newer type patcher machines are harder to find and often enough quite expensive. Can you post some pictures of the machine?

[drunknpirate]

Ya know, I may just be an idiot and have the wrong needle. The needle that came in the machine was bent so I ordered some advertised for a singer 29. I have read they use the same needle system. So I am comparing them and the old needle is shorter then the needle I have in there. Looking at the manual the 30-1 uses a 332L and the other two adler models listed use a 332LLG

The needles I bought were advertised as a 332L leather point. So the package reads 332LL. I was assuming the last L is for leather as thats how my other needle packages always read. Is the LL just an abbreviation for Long? as I would assume the other Alder patches are using a longer needle for the thicker material they are made to sew through?

Should I just be ordering 332 needle? so that would be a 29x3 rather then a 29x4 which I am trying to use.