oil and moisture inhibitor for leather

[esantoro]

Just be very careful with oil and leather - you can apply it quite liberal with a paint brush, but NEVER dunk it. Ask the saddle makers - someone walks into their shop with a 'rescued' saddle that they dunked in oil, they just get shown the door again...

Too much oil will deteriorate the strength of the leather - the fibers have nothing to hold onto ... Also, you can use any oil from animal or plant origin, but NEVER a mineral oil (I know neatsfoot compound has some mineral oils in, but my advice comes from the Leather Chemists of America).

I hope this helps!

I wonder if Brigade is using this DYO/LCI product:

From the DYO website:

DYO Dipping Oil:

Dyo Dipping Oil is a revolutionary finishing product for leather goods manufacturers. When pieces are dipped in DYO Dipping Oil they display an even, well oiled finish that dries much quicker than traditional oils and there is not the oily residue produced by many oil finishing products.

Application: Dip & Lay Flat to Dry

ed

[Peterk]

I wonder if Brigade is using this DYO/LCI product:

From the DYO website:

DYO Dipping Oil:

Dyo Dipping Oil is a revolutionary finishing product for leather goods manufacturers. When pieces are dipped in DYO Dipping Oil they display an even, well oiled finish that dries much quicker than traditional oils and there is not the oily residue produced by many oil finishing products.

Application: Dip & Lay Flat to Dry

ed

I believe the name of the oil is on the bucket in one of Brigade's pictures on the website. I found out about Neatsfoot Oil from one of their pictures.

[esantoro]

I believe the name of the oil is on the bucket in one of Brigade's pictures on the website. I found out about Neatsfoot Oil from one of their pictures.

That's Sheps Neatslene Harness Oil, a combination of neatsfoot oil and other oils., has rat and mice deterrent.

It seems that Weaver is their major supplier. I will have the name of that sealer on Monday.

Ed

[badger]

I'd be willing to bet real money that the white sealer is PVA based.

See the way it has a very slight bluish tint?

I use a lot of PVA based adhesives, including Pros-Aide (a medical adhesive ) and they all exhibit the bluish tint. Also they all go on white and dry clear. They will form a moisture proof barrier when dry.

You can dilute PVA with plain tap water.....

Karl

[esantoro]

I'd be willing to bet real money that the white sealer is PVA based.

See the way it has a very slight bluish tint?

I use a lot of PVA based adhesives, including Pros-Aide (a medical adhesive ) and they all exhibit the bluish tint. Also they all go on white and dry clear. They will form a moisture proof barrier when dry.

You can dilute PVA with plain tap water.....

Karl

Here's this from a nineteenth-century leather tanning journal:

Taking cues from this article and Karl's post, I diluted tanner's bond with tap water. Look no further: It works beautifully, though I am curios to pry a bit further and follow the articles suggestion of mixing in pure soap and a bit of oil. Any idea of that these might provide?

Thanks, Karl.

Ed

[badger]

Well,

Soap is a surfactant and will promote flow and break the surface tension of the liquid. A little soap probably won't do any harm. Baby shampoo or dish detergent. It'll make the solution easier to apply, it'll soak in better and faster.

PVA forms a skin by cross-linking of the molecules. Basically it's an aqueous acrylic emulsion, Acrylic molecules in water. Water based house paints are the same. If you let one dry right out it'll form an acrylic slab in the bottom of the can, effectively a lump of coloured Plexiglass.

After you paint on the PVA solution on the leather, the water will evaporate. When it's all gone the acrylic molecules 'join hands' (crosslink) and a plastic film is formed.

I can't see how adding oil will help.

If it intereferes with the crosslinking process a film may not form and the solution may not dry properly.

Watered down PVA on it's own with very little soap, just a drop, should do it. It'll be strong and flexible and water proof. It'll adhere strongly to the flesh side of leather, no problem.

Cheers,

Karl

*edited to correct the apparent inability of the author to write in his first language......

Edited December 22, 2008 by badger

[esantoro]

Well,

Soap is a surfactant and will promote flow and break the surface tension of the liquid. A little soap probably won't do any harm. Baby shampoo or dish detergent. It'll make the solution easier to apply, it'll soak in better and faster.

PVA forms a skin by cross-linking of the molecules. Basically it's an aqueous acrylic emulsion, Acrylic molecules in water. Water based house paints are the same. If you let one dry right out it'll form an acrylic slab in the bottom of the can, effectively a lump of coloured Plexiglass.

After you paint on the PVA solution on the leather, the water will evaporate. When it's all gone the acrylic molecules 'join hands' (crosslink) and a plastic film is formed.

I can't see how adding oil will help.

If it intereferes with the crosslinking process a film may not form and the solution may not dry properly.

Watered down PVA on it's own with very little soap, just a drop, should do it. It'll be strong and flexible and water proof. It'll adhere strongly to the flesh side of leather, no problem.

Cheers,

Karl

*edited to correct the apparent inability of the author to write in his first language......

That should do it. Now we can also call this our own "Exclusive Compound." Thanks, Karl.

Ed

[badger]

Welcome

Karl