Determining Seam Lines For A Pancake Revolver Holster

[Paramedic04]

Ok, up to this point all I've really done for revolvers is an Avenger style holster for revolvers. My dad saw my 1911 pancake holster and wanted one similar for his Colt Python. Making a pattern for the semi autos are simple due to them being fairly flat along the length of the sight line. For all of you holster makers, how do I adjust this process of pattern making for a revolver? The cylinder is almost directly over the trigger well and I'm trying to figure out where I compensate for the cylinder thickness in my seam line. Usually I'm pretty good and finding an answer for this, but for some reason, no matter how many times I sit to research this throughout the forums and various search engines, I can't find the answer. Any help is greatly appreciated, and to the admins, thanks for maintaining the best resource for leather craftsmen on the internet! This forum is amazing!

[JLSleather]

You made the pattern for the 1911?

You've made holsters for revolvers?

Okay, now just put the two together You'll find that the "center line" on your 'avenger' revolver holster is so close to the front stitch line on a pancake that it's virtually the same thing.

With the python, you have one of the few revolvers that this might vary a bit. But this is due to the "rib" down the barrel more than the cylinder. How long is the barrel on the Colt? How high will it ride? And how wide the belt it fits?

Now that you've brought this up, I think I'll do one of these...

[Paramedic04]

Thanks for the quick reply JLSleather! It's a 4" barrel, he wants a midway ride with a 15 degree cant to fit his 1.5" double thick belt I made him. I think I may have it figured out, I've been mocking it up with foam sheets and will hopefully have something to show off in the next day or so. I appreciate the help!

[Dwight]

Paramedic, . . . the easy way is to make the back of the holster flat. Prepare the back by outlining it, . . . cutting it out.

Make up the front edge (closest to the belt buckle) with both of the pieces there, . . . sewn, . . . just don't pop out the belt loop yet.

The actual "front" of the holster at this point will be the leading edge, . . . and a big glob of leather, . . . specifically cut too big, . . . so you can put that Python in a baggie, . . . soak that front piece of leather, . . . and hand mold and form it to the Python. Don't be gentle, . . . do it, . . . do it right, . . . make that leather mold into the cylinder flutes, . . . front of the trigger guard, . . . front of the cylinder, . . . down the edge of the ventilated rib.

Then, . . . gently remove the Python, . . . and hang the holster up over a stretched out string, . . . along the sight track, . . . let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Come back, . . . put the bagged Python back in the holster, . . . clam shell it shut, . . . mark and cut away the excess, . . . glue, cut, bevel, gouge, stitch, . . . and you will have a holster you will be proud of.

This is how I make all my revolver pancake holsters, . . . never had a customer come back yet and say it was uncomfortable.

Actually, I wish I lived near you, . . . would love to do a "joint project" on a 4 inch Python. I had one once, . . . let it slip away, . . . have kicked myself more times than you can ever imagine.

If you really want to cheat, . . . just lay a piece of soaked leather down on the bagged Python, . . . put it all in a vacuum bag, . . . on a cutting board bigger than the backside of the holster, . . . turn on the vacuum sealer, . . . and you can get the form of the front, . . . then cut it out, . . . add the back to it, . . . and you have a holster.

I've done it that way too, . . . and it does work, . . . I just use a semi-pro vacuum rig.

Make sure you post some pics of the thing when you get it done.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited December 31, 2014 by Dwight

[TwinOaks]

I do it a slightly different way than above - I lay out the general pattern on flat leather, but I first sandwich the revolver between two pieces of dry leather, pinch it together at the trigger guard and top strap (hold with spring clamps, clothes pins, etc.) and mark the leather where it meets. Then, when un-clamped, just measure the distance between marks. That's the size that the opening needs to be when you lay out your stitch lines. If you need to err, do it on the small side and just wet the leather well then stretch it where the cylinder is.

[Paramedic04]

Thanks for the advice guys! I'm going to see how much leather I have and I'm going to try these techniques. I really appreciate the input!