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Posted (edited)

I'd be making it myself and just glue the ends with industrial glue. Only found it in German so here's a picture only.http://www.messerspezialist.de/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/l/e/lederband/Work-Sharp-Ken-Onion-Lederbandset-09DX031-11.jpg

This one's glued only and comes with polishing paste. The picture is a Ken Onion, so I bet it must be available in the states as well if you don't want to make it yourself. Just in case you don't see it, the flesh side is up.

BTW a leather wheel is easier trued up than a felt one. If it is out again you can just use coarse sanding paper to fix it back up.

Maybe I'll give the leather belt idea a go if the belt sander truing trick doesn't work well enough for me. Thanks for your input!

Edited by RawhideLeather
Posted

Thanks for your input! Have you tried this yourself? I had thought of using a dremel with a sanding disk but didn't think of the belt sander idea which is a better one as it is wider. I think I'll give it a shot!

I use this method on the cardboard wheel I have. A dermal will bounce as you are truing, so it can make your wheel worse. The weight and flatness if the belt sander aids you in keeping it consistent.

Posted

I use this method on the cardboard wheel I have. A dermal will bounce as you are truing, so it can make your wheel worse. The weight and flatness if the belt sander aids you in keeping it consistent.

It sounds like a great idea! Thanks!

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Posted

I can't add much to this thread except to say that whenever you use that wheel, be extremely cautious. It is well documented on the knifemaking forums that a buffing wheel is by far the most dangerous tool in the shop. It can grab a blade or almost anything of that size and fling it with remarkable force in a fairly random direction.

Posted

I can't add much to this thread except to say that whenever you use that wheel, be extremely cautious. It is well documented on the knifemaking forums that a buffing wheel is by far the most dangerous tool in the shop. It can grab a blade or almost anything of that size and fling it with remarkable force in a fairly random direction.

When using a buffer to sharpen the trick is to not try to work below the wheel, but on top, WITH THE ROTATION REVERSED so the top of the wheel is moving away from you while working. This will generally stop the the tool from winging into your gut and disembowling you. The easy way to deal with rotation is to simply work from the rear of the buffer (turn it backwards on the bench).

Posted

Thanks for the safety tips guys. Good advice there.

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