Learning To Make Wallets

[Oldtoolsniper]

I switched to pricking irons. Blanchards was the first set I bought. I make my own awl handles with an ivory dot inlay to keep track of the awl orientation. I was shocked at how much I allowed the awl blade to drift from the slots //////// if I did not pay attention. Even a little variation makes the stitch look slightly wrong on the front and way wrong on the back. Having those ////////// marks really reminds you to correct your awl orientation each time you penetrate the leather. If your awl is sharper than you think it needs to be then it might be sharp enough.

I have a long way to go but the leap in improvement for me came with the use of a pricking iron. It caused me to really see the errors in my awl orientation. I also use tiger thread and that too added to my neatness after using some "Tandy Waxed Boat Anchor Rope".

Look at these two phone cases and you can clearly see "awl orientation" issues, especially as I get close to the corners.

[MonicaJacobson]

I have 8spi blanchards, and they're really great. Maybe this year I'll be able to buy another size. I like your idea for the ivory dot- I'll definitely incorporate it soon, as I need to buy a smaller awl blade.

Yes, I see the stitching variation, but that's a sweet phone case! What is the exotic? Oh, yeah, that's the beaver tail one. Very cool. It doesn't look quite like anything else.

By the way, how has your glue joint lasted? I remember you mentioned that you had to glue the beaver to a liner. I'm gluing lizard (and possibly) ostrich shin to pigskin or thin veg tanned, and I'm supposing I have to stitch along the top. But I'd prefer not to, as it doesn't look as clean. Anybody have any advice on that subject?

[Oldtoolsniper]

Monica,

Your work is awesome.

You, like the rest of us tend to focus on any error we make. I've made quite a few of these for friends and they love them. I see the flaws and they see them as incredible. Truth be told I'm making them to practice my sticthing so I can improve, they take up hardly any leather and I've been able to give them all away with no problems.

The finger knife added to the back was a seemingly simple idea until you have a go at it with a pricking iron. It's all one big curve and the pricking irons are straight. I bought a blanchard combination pricking wheel tool and there is again another learning curve to deal with. The nice thing about the knife sheath is that the stitches on the back are not visible. Stitching on a curve has really challenged me. I have a hard time with straight stitching and those pesky curves tend to amplify those problems greatly.

[MonicaJacobson]

Ha, I'd for SURE take one of those for free. I think you have lucky friends. I'm pretty sure you'd have no trouble selling them, either.

I bought a tiny 2 prong for going around corners and helping with curves. It's pretty much invaluable. In fact, the fineleatherworking people probably thought I was crazy - I couldn't afford to buy both the 2 prong and a 10 prong, so I had them custom make (at no extra charge) a six prong instead. I wouldn't want to use it for anything bigger than a wallet, it'd take forever. They were like... okay, whatever you want. Are you sure you don't want a 10 - 20 prong? Heh.

Edited February 22, 2015 by MonicaJacobson

[thefanninator]

I switched to pricking irons. Blanchards was the first set I bought. I make my own awl handles with an ivory dot inlay to keep track of the awl orientation. I was shocked at how much I allowed the awl blade to drift from the slots //////// if I did not pay attention. Even a little variation makes the stitch look slightly wrong on the front and way wrong on the back. Having those ////////// marks really reminds you to correct your awl orientation each time you penetrate the leather. If your awl is sharper than you think it needs to be then it might be sharp enough.

I have a long way to go but the leap in improvement for me came with the use of a pricking iron. It caused me to really see the errors in my awl orientation. I also use tiger thread and that too added to my neatness after using some "Tandy Waxed Boat Anchor Rope".

Look at these two phone cases and you can clearly see "awl orientation" issues, especially as I get close to the corners.

The ivory inlay is a great idea. I'll have to mark a dot on my awl.

Your work looks great as usual and the ostrich looks awesome. Can't wait to see what you make with it.

[Oldtoolsniper]

Monica,

You even store your irons differently than I do. I'm stealing your idea and making a new case for mine.

Thanks!

[MonicaJacobson]

Your way might be better for those bigger irons... I'm having fun making cases for my tools. It makes it easier to take them places, which I do, occasionally. And they sit in the drawers in my house (since all my stuff is inside) and I get the whole case out when I need a tool. Makes me keep things neater. Also, I'd like to see how all the leather I buy ages and wears, so I'm using off-cuts of as many different kinds as I can.

Only done three so far, and haven't gotten around to finishing the edges, but they're functional.

[mircea]

Hi Monica,

Must say that your wallets are nice pieces of work.

Soon I gotta post pictures myself...but first I gotta take those pics

Offtopic: where did u get that horween derby from?

I really like the look on that leather. Pretty hard to find these leathers in Europe...

[mircea]

Hi Monica,

Must say that your wallets are nice pieces of work.

Soon I gotta post pictures myself...but first I gotta take those pics

Offtopic: where did u get that horween derby from?

I really like the look on that leather. Pretty hard to find these leathers in Europe...

[mircea]

Hi Monica,

Must say that your wallets are nice pieces of work.

Soon I gotta post pictures myself...but first I gotta take those pics

Offtopic: where did u get that horween derby from?

I really like the look on that leather. Pretty hard to find these leathers in Europe...

Whoaa..sorry for spamming!

Connection problems!

[MonicaJacobson]

Ha, mircea, it happens to the best of us.

Thanks! Yes, you should definitely post some pictures. I got the Derby from Springfield Leather here in the States. Unfortunately, they don't have any now. One of the staff snitched it from their own shop for me, since it was the last full hide left. Maverick has been known to have some, but you have to keep an eye out. They didn't have any last time I checked. You'd probably have to pay drastic shipping if you're in Europe, but Maverick is cheap enough that you'd come out at Sprinfield's price with shipping, maybe.